Have an a833 with factory hydraulic clutch and the disengagement is at the top of the travel.

The clutch holds plenty of power and the truck shifts really smooth.

Any ideas on if it's adjustable or what the issue might be?

I haven't worked on a mopar a833 with hydraulic clutch, but the other mopar hyd clutches I've worked on were all non adjustable.

have you bleed the system? how old of a clutch disc? flywheel condition? resurfaced fly? low on fluid?

seems they are self adjusting as the disc/PP wears. my nv4500 pedal was low and about middle now. good 75,000 miles on it. no slip yet.

on my 94 ram 1500 nv3500, when the pedal got high it was due to the disc eating into the flywheel a good 1/4" enough it started slipping in 3,4,5 gears.

might remove the slave and let it hang down low as possiable, then stroke the rod its full length to push air up/out of MC res cup.

I have found air in them after a R&R of the line ends and have bleed them. a few days later bleed them again to remove last bit of air.

my 84 Camaro would start grinding gears or clutch dragging it forward at a stop light when the clutch disc/pp/fly would wear to the point of replacement. still looked good but not to specs on thickness.

Thanks, it's a closed system with no bleeder.

I'll get a Helper and see about trying to bleed it.

You can disconnect the line at the slave and flush it and bleed it but you will need a vacuum bleeder.

I bleed my system off the truck and on the truck.

I hung it from a tall ladder the first time letting it gravity bleed from res cup thru MC down line.

I unhooked the lock on the slave/rod letting it all the way out, then poured fluid into the slave inlet till full.

hooked line to slave. then slowly pumped rod the full travel a few times to push air up the line thru MC out the cup. keeping the slave at lowest point in the system.

on the truck I did the same thing with out disconnecting the line, just let the slave down as low as it would go and pumped it a few times.

the stock plastic line can be a pain to R&R with the roll pin so I searched around and found some -AN fittings from Russell that will let you replace the plastic line with a -4 braid line for easy R&R and rerouting lines when transplanting.

FYI*** on my nv4500 you have to remove the bell to get the rod out if it falls out of the slave. DAMHIK! I have now used a 2" holesaw in the bottom of the bell so I could scratch it out again that day.

not sure on the 883/a535 hydro bells? but something to check if the lock strips are broke on your slave rod.

MAKE sure the cap is on the rod..the rod has to have the nylon cap the lock strips are on so it does not wear a hole in the arm pocket. could be why it is coming up short on travel?