I need to remove the torsion bars from my Cuda and I need some recommendations on where to buy a torsion bar removal tool.

-Thanks

check out the posts by wingman and by poorboy: Help disengaging front torsion bars from K-Member"

"Mopar made a tool that clamped on the torsion bar so they could be hammered out once the adjusting bolt was removed from the control arm, the spring clip was removed from the trans crossmember, and the crud was cleaned from both socket ends. In the mid 70s they were a pita to get out, I'd bet they would really be fun these days, if they have never been removed. Gene"[u][/u]

I did not like the thought of using steel on the bar, so took a scrap of aluminum block, drilled a hole the diameter of the bar, split it on a band saw, drilled and tapped two holes either side of the bored hole clamped it on and smacked it with a hammer.
Penetrating oil, time and adjustment bolt backed all the way out.
A friend used a scrap of 4x4 with a groove cut into it that slipped on the bar a little loosely, pushed on it and hit it with a hammer. I did not think it would work, but did a good job of it. Trick he said was looking at how the grain laid on the piece and cut it so the grain did not split off.

3/4 inch pipe leak clamp at Ace Hardware. $5

Are you also going to remove the lower control arms? If so you don't need a tool. With the tension still on the lca adjuster, remove the nut holding the lca pivot to the k frame. Remove t bar retaining clip. Remove the strut rod bushing nut. Loosen the lca t bar tension bolt. Remove lbj from the LCA. Then use a pry bar between the lca and the k frame. The t bar will come out.

you might also have to melt out the old grease from the frame mounts.

raise car, unload t-bar. Completely! Remove the lower shock bolt the sway link,remove the nut on the strut bar. Pickle fork off the lower balljoint. remove the clip at the rear of the t-bar mount. Now loosen the lca nut. Spin it off and spin it back on till even with the lac stud. Find a scrap 2x4 and a 5-8lb hammer square the 2x4 on the nut/stud on the lca and give it a solid hit. Drives them right out. Never has it fail and nothing fancy needed.

If the bar is rusted/stuck in the LCA socket, and here in Michigan they usually are, pushing the LCA and the t/bar back out of the engine cross-member really doesn't help anything. May not be as much of an issue in the warmer states, but here in Mi I've had many that even if you pushed the LCA back and the bar out of the rear socket, the bar was still stuck HARD in the LCA socket. We made a tool for an air hammer that clamped to the bar that saved a lot of mallet time.

I got the T bar tool and other front end tools from Mancini in a kit... it has worked well.

http://www.manciniracing.com/frsuto.html

LOL I had a Penn/Ohio/Chicago car once that took some persuading! But it saw things my was too. I'm just not a fan of any thing clamped to or swinging a hammer at a T-bar surface that will see load. I've actually seen one shear and violently unload once... Not pretty! Watching that valiant jump in the air gave me a dose of religion and a healthy fear of any scars or damage... A nicked bar goes straight to the scrap. Cheers.

Piece of scrap steel and a couple of u-bolts...

I'm with R70, tire/wheel off. support LCA with a hyd floor jack at the right height (you want the assy pretty much horizontle). take off front tapered stud nut/rear clip. drive everything rearward a bit. then go behind the Kmember & drive the LCA forward a bit & generally it'll come forward/off from the t bar hex a bit. At that point you're almost there. trick is to have minimal weight on the tbar cuz that will bind it up. Granted we have salt/snow/rust here but not as bad as some locations but this has always worked for me. If I WAS to clamp it it would definitely not be metal on metal

That's all ive ever done. No worries about nicking the bars then either.

All I've ever used,came from a closed dealer 40 yrs ago.!

hmmm...aluminum..

I made the alum one, when I misplaced the manufactured one, in use, I like mine better.