So this is my first time useing rings like this

1/16th std tension
1/16th Dykes ring
3/16 low tension oil ring

in a 4.040 bore 4" stroke 360

My machine shop talked me into this ring package, didn't come up with it on my own.

It is super easy to turn over, with the first piston installed I could still turn the crank with my bare hand holding the snout! Should it be that easy to turn over? With 4 pistons I could turn it over with one finger on a short wrench. I feel like it is easier to turn over than a 200,000 mile neon engine with glazed over bores and shot rings. I will try to get a TQ wrench on it in the next day or two but something don't seem right... I usually just use the standard tension rings as most of the engines I build are just fast street car stuff so maybe this is normal? Have I just been missing out on this much friction reduction all along?

Ive heard of super low tension set up being easier to turn over than a decent set up dana 60.

Cant think you have an issue man. Just sounds like a well put together, straight crank, and nothing hanging up.

My short block took 13ftlb to turn using 1mm upper lower and 3mm oil rings. Maybe less when I replace the tight rod bearings.

My new combo has a back-cut top moly ring and back-cut napier second w/med oil rings and forgot the breakaway torque but it was low..........

My old Super Stock engine was super easy to turn over.
With all 8 pistons in I could easily turn it over by hand on the damper with no tools.Evan with it all buttend up with heads and rollercam and 320lbs on the seat with Manley springs it turned over with a small breaker bar.
I don't have the # when I used a torque wrench, but it was up to spec according to my mentor Dan Dvorak.

You should be ok if when setting the ring end gap was "normal". My same size engine with a standard moly ring package and the rear seal in place was 25" pounds to maintain continuous rotation.

See if you can measure the breakaway and rotational torque with a inch pound torque wrench both ways. I use a old 1/4 inch drive Snap On brand beam type torque wrench with adapters to the 1/2 inch to the 1 1/4 inch or 1 1/8 inch socket size for those type measurements Back in the early 1970s Dick or Mike Landy recommemded having from 21 to 23 ft lba break away torque and 15 to 17 lbs rotational torque both ways That was with 1/16,1/16 ,3/16 low tension rings in both Hemi and wedge motors with 4.25 to 4.380 bore sizes Let us know what you get My current bracket motor has .043 steel top, .043 cast second and a 1/8 inch low tension oil ring, these are for a vacume pump motor also. I flat forgot to check the breakaway and rotational torque readings before assembling the motor It has really low drag though This baby should make a hoop of power, hopefully
I agree with you on using standard tension oil rings on street motors, even on a bracket motors with no vacume pump
I've had bracket race motors with teh smaller ring paks used today with standard tenion oil rings that I can rotate the crank with 6 pistosn installed with my hands only on the cranks, adding the last two rods and pistons make the breakaway torque more than my old hands and arms can do now AKA aside, low drag is good

I can turn my built R5 shortblock on the cranksnout, with the cylinders dry... with .030 rings!! (Yes, I have to grab it!)

low tension ring combo in 340, , 1.2 @ 3 #, 1.5 @ 3,5 #, 3/16 oil rings, 7 #. takes 4.5 # to rotate short block, doesn't use a vacuum pump or vac u pan setup. has no oiling problems, runs dry. vac pump and vac pan not allowed in class racing.