Okay gang, my 511" low deck is bolted on the dyno waiting on a few small items. We are going to test it with a 250 shot and trim that to 300 after it's dialed in on pump gas. C12 fuel on the plate kit. We will also try two different carbs, one down leg and one annular, both Quickfuel 4150's.

Anyway, I'd love to get the consensus on what you guys think it's going to make!

Here are the specs:

511"

4.375 bore 400 block, aluminum main caps and studs
6.535" Rod, 2.220/.990
Diamond 1.32" CH -12.5cc reverse dome pistons, tool steel pin
Ching chong wing wong 4340 crank offset ground to 4.25" stroke, .2.200 rod journal from a Chrysler journal 4.150" crank.

Edelbrock Victor MW heads CNC ported by Hughes and cleaned up a some by me in the chamber and valve job.
Manley TI retainers and locks
ISKY 9999-RAD springs, 240@2.00" / 740@.750" lift
B3R rocker shaft relocation / geometry correction kit.
Hughes 1.7 ratio rockers
Trend tapered 7/16" push rods

Jones custom roller cam, .740ish lift, 280ish@.050
Isky Red Zone lifters w/ EX-roll option, .180 intake offset due to offset intake rockers due to offset intake ports lol

HV oil pump
Milodon 15381 Road Race Pan, external pickup.
Milodon Pump cover
Hughes hardened shaft and coated gear

Indy 400-2 intake cleaned up a bunch.

4150, 1050 cfm QFT Q-series carburetor


With all of that thanks to everyone that has helped us get this far! I've spent lots of time on the phone with Cab trying to melt his brain down asking questions and hopefully can repay him for his time one day. Mike Jones at Jones Cam Shafts, Micheal at B3R, Jerry at SD Concepts, Monte Smith Racing, and the guys at PSI Springs have helped me learn a ton of knowledge too so if you have the need throw some business there way.

Hopefully we will be ripping power shifts with the G-force by mid summer once the new cage is in.

What do you plan to spin it to ? and what is the car combo, gear,converter, tyre, weight etc.

Big cam for a pump gas street engine. Be interested to see how that works out for you. Should make plenty of power on the dyno though.

It's going in my 3500 lb. small tire '66 Charger backed by a G Force GFR5 5-speed and Dana 60 w/ 3.54 gears. The g force ratios are numerically high in gears 1-4 whick will make the 3.54 more akin to a 4.10. It will run on c12 w/ n20. I wanted pump gas to help get me from A to B hence the wimpy compression. Deaks, it will be 7500 RPM max.

N/A... I have no freakin' idea.

N2O... 250 HP more than no freakin' idea.

No idea... but for fun I'll guess 760 HP @ 6,900 RPM (no N2O).

Well, after a few minor issues my engine is coming off of the dyno and back to our shop. The engine shop can't seem to make the lakewood 15335 with a CVR or factory Chrysler mini starter so it seemed best to get it back in our hands. I can't win with this project! Hopefully we will get it fired on the test stand and find another dyno to work with soon.

Does this intake outflow the heads?

That motor is A WHOLE LOT like my 517, you have more cam lift and duration but I'm thinking that's offset by a bit more .400-.600 lift CFM's (I got 285 @.400, 335 @ .500 and 361 @ .600) out of my Chapmans. The 400-2 probably flows a little bit more than my Larry Smith ported '337.

I would think you're going to be 745-ish at 6600, if it makes less than that after tuning I'd be surprised. I figure mine is right at 720.

Is that the "normal" Lakewood bell housing?
Which flywheel are you running?

The 130 tooth flywheel needs the starter mounted using the "inner" bolt holes, which don't really line up with any starter. Provided the headers you're using have enough room to do this, I use the top bolt, then clamp the bottom starter tab to the bell housing with either a vise-grip or c-clamp(I have plenty of room for this with my dyno headers).
With the 143 tooth flywheel, I've had no problems just using an old school mopar starter mounted in the "outer" holes.

Thank you for the info. The machine shop had my mini starter and could not figure that out and had me drop ship a $300 CVR unit and could not make either work with a 15335 bellhousing. I have a feeling something is wrong with the flywheel I gave them but communication is so bad with the guy you'd never know.


To be brutally honest I've been having trouble getting an itemized bill and decided I'd be better off firing it on a test stand here at the house and finding a different dyno, or just putting it in the car so we can do some racing this summer. Every time the shop I was using runs into a tiny problem they expect me to take off of work to run some parts down. Top it all off with a horrible attitude and it was time to part ways. Getting texts at 7am telling me to bring another $2000 doesn't help either, especially when there is no accountability for where it's going.

This sure has been a long road. Sometimes I wish we had a local shop that was reasonable to deal with. Either way I'll get it figured out and running. Thanks for the replies.

For my goals I was hoping the engine would make about 730-750 n/a on pump premium. It's really a race engine that doesn't require exotic fuel and will live through some street use in the valve train department. Time slpis will tell all.

I agree, it sounds like it was just time to get it home.

After you get it running on your stand it shouldn't be hard to find a dyno service that can make some runs for you.

It wouldn't be any fun working on a dyno that requires a bellhousing, flywheel and starter. The dyno I use has a starter on the driveshaft so the shop doesn't need all of that hardware from the customer. I also built a mid-plate for the dyno so we could get rid of the bellhousing. It is hard to get your hands inside the bellhousing to bolt up the driveshaft.

Bottom line is if you're going to dyno a BB Mopar it helps to work with a shop that has some experience with that combo. Otherwise it becomes an R&D project just to get the engine hooked up to the dyno.

As both AndyF and Jeremiah are in OR it seems some PMs are in order.

R.

Good call

It will be interesting.
A low CR (for naturally aspirated) and that much cam duration. But for your pump gas and N20, I don't know. But the collection of parts has potential!

What did the actual CR compute to?

Good luck.

Not sure how big the chambers are on the Vics, but My 517 Stage VI worked out to 11.7:1 with a similar D dished piston. I'd imaging this one would be pretty close to that.

11.2:1 was the actual.

Here is the cam info:

275/282 @ .050"
.448"/.436" Lobe Lift
111 LSA

The engine uses a 1.7 ratio rocker arm. I'm not sure if part of the cam design is the small tire factor or not. You guys will be the first to know if it doesn't work!

edit: From Hughes the chambers were 84-86cc. I did soften the chambers ever so slightly in anticipation of the nitrous. Prior to assembly the heads were surfaced and the chambers ended up about 80-81cc. My memory is a little foggy but I think the head gasket was .041 or .043 thick, piston dome was -12.5cc. FWIW the cam grinder said I could go to 11.5:1 on pump premium if I was mindful of the tune up.

That cam looks pretty close to what Herb McCandless used in a pump-gas low-deck 499 back in the mid 1990s that ran high 9s at 3700#s: 276/281 at .050", 110 LSA on 106 ICL, .700+" with 1.7 rockers. You've got a few more cubes and at least a full point higher CR, as I recall, too.

That is promising! Thank you for the info Brad. Did you ever get your Victor motor up and running?