While assembling the front end of my engine last night, the crank bolt got soft going in. Come to find out I stripped the last few threads off the bolt. Of course that sinking feeling sets in w/ visions of pulling the engine and complete disassembly and then finding a repair shop for the crank.

After inspection the crank is fine; it was just the bolt. I found a new bolt in my stash of parts and reluctantly used it.

The factory bolt doesn't go in very far w/ a fluid damper and I couldn't find anything online that was longer than 2.25. Do I just need to go to Fastenall and buy a bolt or does someone make one for a Mopar crank?

At this point I'm just really glad the bolt was gr5 and the crank is made of 4340.

440Source has several listed. They show the factory bolt at 1.25". I can't see why you would need anything longer than 2.25". Make sure you don't bottom it out in the crank threads.

I checked that. I'm a long way from bottoming.

I bought my grade 8 from Tractor Supply.

My inner gearhead wants to buy a slightly longer bolt, then gun-drill it. Seems like useless weight being it doesn't hold much.

I recall that for the Fluidamper you use a small block bolt. Much longer than a stock BB bolt. I switched to ARP bolts and I think their BB bolts are a bit longer than stock but can't say for sure.

I bought several 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 grade eight bolts from our local comercial hardware store. I'm using a ATI dampener with a extend hub to use with a milidon gar drive, the stock BB bolt woulndn't engage one thread I had one stock SB bolt and I used it to seat the dampeener and it was way long on the thrread engagement so I bought the others one for future use, I ended up using one of the 2 1/4 long ones

Just buy a grade 8 bolt from a good hardware store.

I just bought a grade 8 bolt from Fastenal.

i got mine at Ace hardware,grade 8.

Same here... all I buy is grade 8 from there

So for those of you that just buy a bolt what do you do for a washer? That washer is as critical to proper fastening as the bolt itself. That's why I like the ARP so much. Good hardened washer that does not distort.

I also got an xtra long one with a nut and extra washers.I use that as an installation tool.

Like others, I also use grade 8 bolts and washer. I use a tap bolt(fully threaded) and thread a nut on very tight and align the hexes to act as a long bolt head. This way the deep socket and long ratchet DON'T fall off when barring engine over to run valves. I put a center point in the bolt head for puller.

I use one of the ARP crank bolts. They have 12 point bolts as well as hex bolts that are broached for a 1/2 inch drive. Here is the 12 point bolt.