And if you do need a cam you can regrind the roller you have up to another ~8-10 degrees @.050 and generally +/- 2 degrees on the lobe spread. you'd have to send the core to be sure but generally you can get at least one regrind on a roller Billet...for about a third the cost of another new one.

Any mods done to the carbs to clean em up down low and transition into the cruise then wot?

Thanks....I will keep this in mind if, or when, I decide to go to a bigger cam.

The holley and quickfuel haven't been worked on in those areas. The AED I'm not sure. I contacted them and they asked me a bunch of questions about my car, and said we can make something for you. What all has been done to it I honestly don't know.

Gotcha................

4500 stall isn't what I would predict from such a big converter.
Where does it actually stall, and flash?

Targeting a specific DCR isn't a useful goal, what you want to determine is your knock limit - but that varies quite a bit depending on too many things to pick a specific ratio.

About all I can tell you is on the 10" behind my 451 I never saw less than 4500rpm at full throttle. The 9 1/2" I have now I haven't run yet, but I'm kind of hoping for similar results. At least that's what I tried to tell them when I ordered it.

OK..........So I decided to be a jacka$$ and disregard all the really good advice I got here from everyone and got a new cam based on the recommendation of the local shop here in Indy ( No NOT Indy Cylinder Heads !)that went through my heads. The flow sheet looked really close to what Dwayne Porter gets out of a set of S/R heads so I felt good about the results, and that his bench is probably fairly accurate.

Intake Exhaust
.100 73 60
.200 149 116
.300 214 167
.400 275 192
.500 319 224
.600 336 240
.700 350 255
.800 365 265
.900 360 269

Cam is 276 intake 284 Exhaust @ .050
.682 Intake .667 exhaust
110 lobe separation.

Just to add a bit more, the heads were shaved a bit to get the C/r up to 11.1

Should work well imo.............

Just a wild guess, but IMHO your converter is going to make or break the performance of the motor with this cam.
I suspect it will need to be at least a 5000 stall to get the best out of the car. A 9.5 can be set up to stall that high with a motor that big.
In the end, testing will tell the tail. I would start with a shift loop and see what it does, and if it is soft on the bottom you have a couple of options. You can try the old cam, or loosen the converter, or both, but not at the same time. If it runs a good MPH I would loosen the converter first.
That new cam sure looks to be plenty big, at only a couple of degrees at .050 short of what made 847 hp in my 15/1 528 alky motor, and that motor pulled to 7,000 hard, till it went fat and nosed over.

Where are you planning on installing the intake lobe centers?

gregsdart.....I agree, converter will be critical. Like you said, need to see what kind of miles an hour it gets to decide what to do next.

Cab....I was thinking about 104.

Another question here.

I have an old set of the Comp chrome moly rocker arms that I used on my old roller cam. They worked fine and I had zero problems with them.

I'm running the PAC 1226 springs on it now.

Are those rockers going to be ok with this cam and spring ?

Unless things have changed, no..........

I have a Comp 264/264 HXL lobes 0.446" lobe lift 112 LSA cam that was in the 500" stroker when I was planning on doing more street driving.
It ran pretty good for a dual purpose cam.

That's what I was afraid of. While they worked fine with my old solid roller, I think I was one of the few who had good luck with those in that kind of application.

So.....I can take these to work and install a bronze bushing in them without too much trouble.

I'm thinking a .030" wall bushing would be fine for this.

Would 4640 aluminum nickel bronze work ok for this application ?

Can`t help ya there but it seems the bodys are not as beefy iirc so maybe it`s more that just bushings to fix em..........

I can't verify this with any actual measurements, but other than the bushing and a black oxide finish they sure look to be the same.

At this point I'm not really thrilled with throwing down more money on a new set of rockerarms when my old ones really are pretty decent. I'm going to bush the old ones and run em.