This is good info guy's, I don't intend on using a cam with anywhere near the 450 on the seat or 1200 over the nose, somthing closer to 240 on the seat and mid 600 range in lift, I am presently running Crane ultra pro's in my small block with out failure and have no problem running them again but I am just testing the waters as to what others are using with good results.

my unbushed lifter bores in my 360 block leak real bad with the crane ultra pros. do you have bushed bores in your block?

I hurt an offset Comp with 275/800 at 160 passes. Caught it when the lash opened up .007" during my normal 25 pass check. I bought the bushed Isky Red Zones as my friend who runs over 1" of lift (400/1000)in a 615 BB Chevy has had sets go over 400 passes, never hurt one.
Doug

Yes I do.

I thought Cam FX were the shizz bizz?

That's debatable.

Allow me to condense it a little - The best lifters in existence for the most extreme applications do not use bushings.
Do you think they would use needle bearings in a fuel motor if they were inferior to bushings?.....think of the cylinder pressure combined with static spring load that is required to open the exhaust valve here....just saying.....

Please expand on this thought.

Since you have bushed bores then you have more options. I have a new set of Crower lifters which are designed for a bushed block. They can pushrod oil if you want that too. These are new but I can't use them since my block isn't bushed. I'll make you a good price on them if you want.

if your only putting 10 passes or less it wouldn't mater, would it? I'm sure needle bearings could be a very slight advsntage. No way they last as long.
Doug

Fuel engines use a solid bar with no roller tip on the exhaust rocker. The roller will NOT stand up to the exhaust valve pressures on those engines.

I sure am enjoying reading this thread. Just a few weeks ago I started a "winter maintenance" thread on changing to Isky bushed lifters in my 100% street driven HEMI. (I am still waiting for the lifters to arrive). The real life experiences shared on here are helpful. But what about those of us running a solid roller on the street at LOW rpm? My understanding is that is the hardest on roller lifters as there is very little oil splash/feed at idle and low rpm.
For me it came down to this: With needle bearings, there is a chance of severe damage or even losing an engine. Possibly hundreds of miles from home. With bushings, I may have wear that causes me to have to rebuild/change them but I will NOT lose an expensive engine due to a needle bearing going through it.
As a side note: The Isky top of the line bushed lifters w/oil feed to the trunion, are several times more expensive than the prices listed so far on this post. But to me they are cheap compared to the engine that I am installing them in.

Agreed. An engine builder friend, that I race with, will NOT use anything but a Morel style lifter. He builds 5.00 bore Chevys with over 1,500hp n/a on a single 4 barrel!!!

I'm really suprised that a "good" lifter company would use the smaller .750 wheels on thier better roller lifters instead of the .820, .840 or larger roller wheels The larger the diameter of the roller wheel the less revoluotions it will make during a run which helps prevent early failures All the better solid roller lifters I've bought and used, no matter which brands, all have had the larger .820 or bigger wheels in the last 5 to 8 yrs on there Mopar .903 or .904 roller lifters

Most everything we do here is at a fairly high level and in the past had always used Jesel "keyway" lifters and never had an issue, other than the price. On the advice of Charlie @ Buck Racing Engines, I switched over to Cam FX lifters and have been nothing but pleased. They hold up as well as the Jesels and are a good bit cheaper.

Have also used Morel's in other combos with no issues. While some get good results from the $350 Comps and others in that price range, it all depends on the combination and pressures involved. Like some of the others though, I haven't built a motor with low spring pressures in several years, because that's just not what we do...........But I will say, that I recently built a fairly moderate motor for myself, for a mostly street deal, with a much milder cam profile. I still used a "good" lifter in it, just for the peace of mind. Have had and seen too many failures from the "cheaper" lifters and just won't risk it. We see issues with the bodies starting to "fork" at the bottom, then other problems ensue

I am not looking for a cheaper lifter just looking for good options in case I cannot get what I want at the time I need them, when I bought the Cranes back 6 or so years ago I was under the understanding that the ultra-pro series was a very good lifter at the time and I was looking for pushrod oiling also so thats the ones that I selected, I later found out that the set I aquired was the last known new set in existance, (this was back when crane was having difficulties and wasn't producing alot of stuff anymore)so I almost didn't get them,what would I of setteled for? who knows,,,and those lifter's were over $700.00 at that time,,this 400 block WILL get the lifter bores bushed also, for all the reason's I did my small block plus the factory bores are way oversize by .003 to .005 and out of round, it probably looked like a sprinkler in the valley, so what I am doing is researching to find a selection I can work from, for a lifter that I can rely on and don't have to loose any sleep over, $350.00 lifters won't cut it with me and $1000.00 lifters are just not in the budget either,,Great thread guy's lot's of good info as always.

I would never use a lifter with a .750 wheel on any Chrysler cam core. Ever. Even though guys get away with it. As Cab said, the wheel speed is too great, and (I learned this through experience and Wayne Jesel) the wheel/axle/bearing beconme a tuning fork and literally explode.

As stated above.........a GOOD .904 lifter should have an .850 wheel. And here is something else to think about, especially if you need an offset cup lifter and are going to bush the block. Go ahead and move up to the .937 lifter. It will have the .850 wheel, costs no more than a .904 and gives a little bit more clearance with offset cups

Has anyone tried the Comp Sportsman series? They have a lower oil groove but a stronger body than the endurex lifter with the option of bushing or rollers? Kind of mid way in price as well.

The Cam FX stuff looks nice but I don't see a website or anything, even a Google search just turned up an eBay ad for what looks like $1100 bucks a set.

Cam FX. 909-354-0659