Hey folks, let me get some opinions here. 76 440 block. All machined and balanced with 440 source rods and Pistons, but thinking about a crank. Have a virgin standard size journal cast crank, or could buy a standard size stock forged crank for $250.00 without machining. Should have about 600 horse and will use a main girldle and ARP studs on everything.

I think that a forged crank is in order at that hp level. Why didn't you just buy a full rotating kit from 440 source to start with? A stroker kit wouldn't have cost you any more than a standard 440 kit.

I've never had a problem with a cast crank.

It was the stock, cast pistons that were my undoing!

Yes we all would prefer the steel crank over the cast but how many have you seen let go ?

My first race engine was, still is, a cast crank stock LY rod engine. It's been to hell running 11.00's for years and then high 9's on the bottle over a 150 times. it has a sleeve, 7 TRW pistons and 1 Manley that was shaped with a grinder to match the others, ran a best of 9.69 @ 135. The engine is still going hard in my sons Aussie A body N/A running 11.2.

I would say that a cast crank will be fine up to 600hp.

Well it's all going in a 4,000 pound shortbed dodge truck. Don't plan on anymore than 6,500 rpm. I haven't bought a rotating assembly just yet, but that's what I plan on running in it. Block is getting machined as we speak.

Cast crank and ly rods at work https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nt4DpdAI7Fk

This made me laugh............a lot..........

The people that were following me when it went "boom" on US 54 and had to drive through the cloud of antifreeze probably weren't laughing...

You know if you could get that thing to hook up, it would accelerate a lot faster... Crazy Aussies!

(I wanna be a tire salesman in Austrailia!)

I think some of that dirt from the return road next to the strip got on it somehow...

$250 for a stock forged crank that still needs machining??? Holy crap that's high! You ought to be able to find one cheaper than that!

Realistically, I think a cast may be fine for what you want to do, but I'd rather see a forged crank in a motor making that much power. You've already spent good money on a girdle, studs, etc. Get a forged crank and don't worry about it.

Bottom line is this, can you afford the steel crank, if so, put it in there. Me personally, I won't use cast crank in anything other than a stock build..........don't care how many, have done this, or been this fast. Not worth the risk

Should be a million of the steel 440 cranks laying around with everyone using strokers now, and cheap too. Like the guy above said, maybe $250 for a done crank.

Jason Pettis found my 413 forged crank 13 years ago ready to drop in my 400 block for about $250 iirc w/chevy rod sizing.........

As said in the next post, RB steel cranks hold a premium to go into a B-motor budget stroker. At least $100 for a core that needs turned. $200 at a swapmeet.

Not splitting hairs, but they are both steel....its not cast iron v/s forged steel. One starts out as a forged billet the other is a poured casting.

Consider this, if you are a budget build (say <500hp) or a just for fun test and tuner, it probably doesn't matter much. If you are hitting it fairly hard, or drive the stripe with the throttle pedal, you should probably stay away from cast.

No they are not both steel
one is iron and the other is steel
its sort of like saying brass and bronze are the same

cast crank is ok for stock. if you're after performance, you've got that big, ugly,heavy balancer.little stall converter availability /special offset flexplate to buy. balance job will cost more and you've got a externally balanced engine vs internally [the right way] btw,the only cast crank iv'e seen broke was a dodge camper special 400 when I wrenched in the airforce. it broke right in the middle of #3 main but was still running with a knock.it drove in the shop! i'm sure it took a lot of abuse.

I dont remember the ASTM number right off , but here is a link you can refer to until I find or remember it....they ARE cast steel. Not totally relevant, but as in your comment - its like calling brass and bronze as the same.
Bottom line, go forged.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1405-how-to-tell-forged-crank-from-cast-spotters-guide/

Im not sure why hotrod is calling it steel?
Its a ductile cast iron afik but hey I could be wrong
I agree keep away for performance.