Changing over my Coronet to disc/drum and in the past I have always used 73-4 b or e body valves but cant seem to find one. Anybody know where to buy a new valve? Thanks for any help or leads on what else works good

I used pirate jacks, guy seems to know a lot and the prices were good, parts came fast and worked as they should..

Did you get the block with the valve kinda like the 70 b body style

Yes sir, I actually bought the entire front disc kit, but they add the valve to the kit because I am not sure if its included.. Works good looks good, I was happy with everything in that kit, its the oem look alike kit..


http://piratejack.net/mopar-proportioning-valve/

Pirate jack ? First I've heard of them!

I was surprised as heck to find Pirate Jack this summer. I did an online search for 'Mopar disc brake swap hardware kit'. Very fast shipping and response time. They sent me an incorrectly marked bag of Shivvy hardware. But, they made it right by sending out a replacement kit immediately. The replacement hardware kit was at my door in less than 48 hours and they issued an RMA for the Shivvy hardware and I just left it on my doorstep for pickup. Very good to work with. www.piratejack.net

As long as MBM addressed the issues with the valve, Finelines was modifying all the valves before they shipped. Also, if you want the rubber boot missing from all the MBM valves everyone is selling, call Finelines, they have it.

Having same issue here and posted about it recently. I am trying to piece together the brass block for my '71 Challenger for disc/drums. Someone mentioned a '73-'74 E-Body type. Are those better? I have heard that they were cast iron and could rust. Not to hijack the thread but would like to know more about the later '73-'74 type if anyone knows.

I have always had good luck with the 73/4 valve and I do have one, but it's been on the shelf for a good while and have my concern as it's got a good amount of surface rust. The only one Ican find new is the brass block with the meter valve mounted next to it. Just wasn't sure how good they were, GM used brass for disc drum but if I recall they were superceded to a cast unit as they were having issues. I'd be happy with a good used from any 73/4 mopar

I used the same style 2 piece valve shown by the Pirate Jack link, I got mine from Inline Tube and had no problems at all with it. Ebay link

You're probably thinking about this type of combination valve?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-Mopar-Plymo...=item3d0e1188ff

I have a 73 Cuda and went through the ordeal of replacing my combination valve. Let me tell you that finding a good replacement will be very difficult because that valve was made for only 2 years. The P/N is: 3583607 in case your interested.

I finally ended up using a universal disc/drum valve which had the ports in the same location as the factory valve. All I had to do is mount it vertically and my lines hooked up. The valve I used is P/N PV71 and is commonly available in places such as ebay, Pirate Jacks, Summit Racing, etc. Plus, it's not that expensive (around $60).

Here's a pic of the valve and the ports:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rsd-pv71


Just wanted to give you another option. You can use the 70-72 combination valve, but the plumbing becomes more complicated because of the separate metering valve for the front brakes.

Hope this helps.

So after '74 that style went away? I didn't realize it was only made for two years.

I acquired some brake parts from a '74 Charger a few years ago when I added power to my original drums on my '71 Challenger. I was mainly looking for the part that bolts to the pedal box and a booster core. I also got a proportioning valve for disc brakes along with the lot so I just hung on to it. I pulled out last night and it is in near perfect condition with no surface rust. My father in law took it from a car that he parted in the late 80's and it's been on a shelf ever since. Prior to being removed, a PO must have spray-bombed under the hood, further protecting the proportioning valve. The only issue I had was that the bracket from the '74 Charger is different from an E-body. I also happen to have a crusty old valve from a '73 Challenger which has a nice bracket. I would up grinding and punching the rivets out of both units and swapped the brackets.

So, I guess I'll be using the cast iron valve from the '74. I would think that would be the best route to go at this point.

pirate jacks is top-notch I purchase a brake booster on ebay a year later went to install it dint fit was replace no issue. 3 mouths later it went bad was replace no cost to me

I took one off a non abs disc/drum 1998 Jeep Cherokee. It works great