Re: You can't screw up primer......can you?
[Re: dulcich]
#198637
01/20/09 08:44 AM
01/20/09 08:44 AM
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312 Cincinnati, Ohio
Challenger 1
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 28,312
Cincinnati, Ohio
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Quote:
I'd skip the wax and grease remover and go right to the primer -dulcich
For sure on bare sand blasted metal, that would only make it worse.
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Re: You can't screw up primer......can you?
[Re: VITC_GTX]
#198638
01/20/09 11:28 AM
01/20/09 11:28 AM
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 936
OLD318
super stock
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super stock
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 936
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Quote:
I have a Finex gun that I have only used once so I have limited experience.
My question is you can't screw up primer can you?? If I use the P-sheets to mix things appropiately it's about impossible to screw it up, correct?
This depends on what your interpretation of "screw it up" is? and what your interpretation of the finished result is...
If sand in your finished primed engine compartment is ok for you than ....no you can't screw it up..
Sandblasting the engine compartment is ok. But afterwards I would recommend a 4 step cleaning/prep process after blasting it..
First, take the car outside or to a different place and blow it off... blow it off for hours if you have to.. The blast media gets everywhere Every hole you have in the frame, core support etc Blow it out multiple times...
Take your time... don't be in a rush Blow it, blow it, and blow it again....
Next, if you blasted with a heavy duty blast media like Aluminum oxide to get rid of heavy rust... I would go over every inch (possible) with a DA and 320 grit to get rid of the rough surface this stuff leaves behind..
if you used something finer to blast with you may not need to do this..But this is a great step as it removes all the remaining surface "stuff" left behind by blasting... It leaves the surface really smooth too...
Next, I would go over the whole thing with PPG DX579 which is a metal prep/cleaner. You apply it wet with a rag, and then wipe it dry with a clean one... you'll want to use a lint free rags for both of these steps...
Merfin makes a box of shop wipes that are EXCELLENT for this... but they are EXPENSIVE...
Third, after the wipe down with the DX579.. it's like an acid prep, you'll want to neutralize the surface so I would repeat the wipe on wet, wipe off until dry with PPG reducer like DX870 or any other reducer (does not have to be the high priced stuff at all...just neutralize with reducer wipe on wet, and wipe off dry (different rags)... Take you time on these two steps...
Your basically cleaning the S#@# out of it which will lead to an outstanding result...
Next, blow the car off again and then wipe off with your wax and grease remover...again wipe on wet and wipe off dry with a separate rag.
I would not spray an engine compartment or the interior, trunk or door jams with K36 first..
I would use 2-3 coats of DPLF epoxy primer. After that, wait a day or so, then paint... I would paint right over the DPLF...
You don't have to use the expensive DBC paint for an engine compartment, you can use DBU which is about half the cost... spray 3 coats and then spray 2 coats of clear like 2021...
You'll LOVE the results...
Just my
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Re: You can't screw up primer......can you?
[Re: reflections7]
#198641
01/20/09 08:37 PM
01/20/09 08:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,621 Shopping @ HoBo Fright
340SIX
Doc Flappergas's Evil Twin
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Doc Flappergas's Evil Twin
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,621
Shopping @ HoBo Fright
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Quote:
Make sure the temp is above 60 or it wont cross link harden correctly even if you heat it up later. 2k products go thru a chemical reaction and have to be above that temp to work correctly.
I agree make sure the temp is right so it cures right before top coating it. Skip the wax grease remover what is it Dx330 in PPG, just use laqure thinner to wipe it down since you will proberly have some spots that got dirty when you touching it and leaning on it were blasting the engine bay.
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Re: You can't screw up primer......can you?
[Re: 340SIX]
#198642
01/20/09 09:56 PM
01/20/09 09:56 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,239 Kentucky
Sasquatch4406
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,239
Kentucky
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Quote:
Quote:
Make sure the temp is above 60 or it wont cross link harden correctly even if you heat it up later. 2k products go thru a chemical reaction and have to be above that temp to work correctly.
I agree make sure the temp is right so it cures right before top coating it. Skip the wax grease remover what is it Dx330 in PPG, just use laqure thinner to wipe it down since you will proberly have some spots that got dirty when you touching it and leaning on it were blasting the engine bay.
i believe its dx101
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Re: You can't screw up primer......can you?
[Re: 340SIX]
#198644
01/20/09 11:11 PM
01/20/09 11:11 PM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,931 Tri-Cities, Washington
VITC_GTX
OP
master
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,931
Tri-Cities, Washington
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Consensus seems to be that I blast it, blow the beejeezes out of it to remove sand(using dry/filtered air), use a wipedown like laquer thinner (not wax and grease remover), DP40 it then K36(epoxy primer) in an area that is at least 60 degrees. Hopefully I can handle that What tip do you folks prefer to use for K36?
Last edited by VITC_GTX; 01/20/09 11:13 PM.
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Re: You can't screw up primer......can you?
[Re: VITC_GTX]
#198645
01/21/09 12:13 AM
01/21/09 12:13 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,621 Shopping @ HoBo Fright
340SIX
Doc Flappergas's Evil Twin
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Doc Flappergas's Evil Twin
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 28,621
Shopping @ HoBo Fright
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You can keep tons of sand out the holes if you duct tape in few layers over the holes in the frame while blasting. Put the 2K {K36}primer on within 3-4 days in weather conditions hot as long as 7 when cold with out scuffing past this time it must be scuffed to stick. Yes i know it is cold right now just giving that info for when you use it in the summer{later on}
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Re: You can't screw up primer......can you?
[Re: 340SIX]
#198646
01/21/09 01:29 AM
01/21/09 01:29 AM
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Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,931 Tri-Cities, Washington
VITC_GTX
OP
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OP
master
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,931
Tri-Cities, Washington
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Quote:
You can keep tons of sand out the holes if you duct tape in few layers over the holes in the frame while blasting. Put the 2K {K36}primer on within 3-4 days in weather conditions hot as long as 7 when cold with out scuffing past this time it must be scuffed to stick. Yes i know it is cold right now just giving that info for when you use it in the summer{later on}
I can spray the 2K over the DP within a matter of hours, correct?
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