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I'd skip the wax and grease remover and go right to the primer
-dulcich

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For sure on bare sand blasted metal, that would only make it worse.

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I have a Finex gun that I have only used once so I have limited experience.

My question is you can't screw up primer can you?? If I use the P-sheets to mix things appropiately it's about impossible to screw it up, correct?

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This depends on what your interpretation of
"screw it up" is? and what your interpretation
of the finished result is...

If sand in your finished primed engine
compartment is ok for you than
....no you can't screw it up..

Sandblasting the engine compartment is ok.
But afterwards I would recommend a 4 step
cleaning/prep process after blasting it..

First, take the car outside or to a different
place and blow it off... blow it off for hours if you have to.. The blast media gets everywhere
Every hole you have in the frame, core support etc
Blow it out multiple times...

Take your time... don't be in a rush
Blow it, blow it, and blow it again....


Next, if you blasted with a heavy duty blast media like Aluminum oxide to get rid of heavy rust...
I would go over every inch (possible) with a DA
and 320 grit to get rid of the rough surface this stuff leaves behind..

if you used something finer to blast with you may not need to do this..But this is a great step
as it removes all the remaining surface "stuff" left behind by blasting... It leaves the surface really smooth too...


Next, I would go over the whole thing with PPG DX579 which is a metal prep/cleaner.
You apply it wet with a rag, and then wipe it dry with a clean one... you'll want to use a lint free rags for both of these steps...

Merfin makes a box of shop wipes that are EXCELLENT for this... but they are EXPENSIVE...

Third, after the wipe down with the DX579..
it's like an acid prep, you'll want to neutralize
the surface so I would repeat the wipe on wet,
wipe off until dry with PPG reducer like DX870
or any other reducer (does not have to be the high
priced stuff at all...just neutralize with reducer
wipe on wet, and wipe off dry (different rags)...
Take you time on these two steps...

Your basically cleaning the S#@# out of it which will lead to an outstanding result...

Next, blow the car off again and then wipe off
with your wax and grease remover...again
wipe on wet and wipe off dry with a separate rag.

I would not spray an engine compartment or the interior, trunk or door jams with K36 first..

I would use 2-3 coats of DPLF epoxy primer.
After that, wait a day or so, then paint...
I would paint right over the DPLF...

You don't have to use the expensive DBC paint
for an engine compartment, you can use DBU which is about half the cost... spray 3 coats and then
spray 2 coats of clear like 2021...

You'll LOVE the results...

Just my

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Make sure the temp is above 60 or it wont cross link harden correctly even if you heat it up later. 2k products go thru a chemical reaction and have to be above that temp to work correctly.

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Make sure the temp is above 60 or it wont cross link harden correctly even if you heat it up later. 2k products go thru a chemical reaction and have to be above that temp to work correctly.

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I agree make sure the temp is right so it cures right before top coating it.
Skip the wax grease remover what is it Dx330 in PPG, just use laqure thinner to wipe it down since you will proberly have some spots that got dirty when you touching it and leaning on it were blasting the engine bay.

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You can keep tons of sand out the holes if you duct tape in few layers over the holes in the frame while blasting.
Put the 2K {K36}primer on within 3-4 days in weather conditions hot as long as 7 when cold with out scuffing past this time it must be scuffed to stick.
Yes i know it is cold right now just giving that info for when you use it in the summer{later on}

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