1971 Dart Swinger. 318, 2-bbl (soon a 4-bbl), auto, PS, A/C with 115000 miles. Original radiator. Just a cruiser.

Would you replace with a Brass or Aluminum radiator?

Stock replacement is more than adequate

The only thing you get with an aluminum radiator is weight savings, cooling is actually better with an OEM style. But, you can usually find the aluminum radiators cheaper.

That's a fact...

OEM was out there in millions of vehicles...

And worked just fine...

Agreed & for your app an alum will be fine. I used a Champion ($189 to my door/eBay) in a 65 dart with an 83 318 & it was perfect tho a 318 sure ain't gonna test its cooling capabilities. it was a 2 row and there's been talk that the coolant tubes are smaller but for your app it'd be a non issue. I only had to redrill (1) mounting hole in the Dr side flat flange. If you get one check that it is flat & all welds are good/complete tho those reported probs are somewhat scarce & reportedly have been addressed. The alum does look horrid & you'd wanna paint it. You will save hundreds going with alum

Comparing the exact same size to size the copper and brass will cool better I've had issue with aluminum radaitors cooling good for the first year and then run hotter the next year with no changes I had to have that radaitor back flush every year to keep the motor running under 200 F

Either should work fine. The main drawback to aluminum is they are generally a universal fit that may or may not accommodate the factory shroud, mounting holes etc. Rock auto has a couple of stock replacements listed for just under 200.00. A bit of shopping may better those prices ?

Electrolysis???

A heat exchanger usually loses efficiency by fouling. Even a very thin layer of something in the tubes can cut the total heat transfer rate by quite a bit.

You will not save hundreds going with aluminum.

Cheapest radiator at Summit racing for this application is brass, $227.97.

Next cheapest is a cross flow aluminum universal, $323.97.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/year/1971/make/dodge/model/dart/department/cooling-heating/section/radiators/part-type/radiators?N=4294950315%2B4294951331%2B4294947955%2B4294950709%2B4294949676%2B4294949245&SortBy=DisplayPrice&SortOrder=Ascending

You can get the direct fit OEM type at Rock Auto for a bit less than Summit, about $200. In order to "save hundreds" your aluminum radiator would have to be free, shipped free and install itself without mods, which the cheapest AL direct fit (aka no mods needed) is over $600 at Summit.

You might find a universal (fits nothing) AL radiator on E bay that can be made to work, most likely without the factory shroud fitting easily, for maybe $15 less, not counting shipping differences or mods needed.

Assuming you even need a radiator at all, is this a proactive replacement or do you need a radiator

Agreed...

Just wondering if coolant passing between a cast iron block, and an aluminum rad has a negative effect on the core...


I've got an OEM copper/brass rad that I've been running for over 20 years...

Appears to be little, or no 'fouling' in the transfer tubes looking in from the filler neck...


Still cooling just fine...

On this subject about the radiators and not to take away from the OP, here is my question: Seems the census says that original or brass radiators will be ok. Will the same be said for a big block engine, making big HP, and with A/C?

Thanks

The OP will be fine with an orginial type replacement. I run a universal aluminum two tube crossflow aluminum on my Dart. My 408 was in the 550 hp range and never ran over 180 in hot weather. I suspect it will cool my new 434 without any issues. I did have to fab up the mounting brackets and a shroud, certainly not rocket science. Factory replacement hoses fit it too, $175 from a local roundy round shop.

Talked with a tech at a local rad shop. They do rads for customs in the area. Their advice to beat the Arizona hot temps is an OE with a minimum of three rows, 180 T-stat and a good water pump. They said to stay away from aluminum unless racing.

I've replaced a number of "cheap" aluminum radiators in big block & small block MOPARs that had overheating "issues" out here in the VEGAS heat with stock OE style brass/copper radiators with positive results.

The recent overload/marketing of cheap aluminum radiators and the perception that they are an improvement over OE style because big money motorsports like NASCAR teams use them is a problem. NASCAR uses aluminum radiators - "it must be the solution to my overheating problems" - did you ever see the size/volume of a NASCAR radiator? I can only imagine the cost.

Aluminum is CHEAP, off-shore manufacturing is CHEAP, lets market a cost competitive (based on not well understood cooling properties with bigger profit margins than brass/copper) solution to everyone's perceived high cost cooling needs. Yeah, that'$ the ticket!!

That and with most they use epoxy to seal the seams

I too am considering a new radiator (as a preventative measure) and have some of the same concerns as the OP (nearly identical vehicle as well).

Is there any special maintenance that must be done with an Aluminum vs. Copper/Brass radiator?

FABO member challengergary suggested Champion Radiator (CC526) is a bolt in for $235 to my door.

Any opinions?

This seems like a topic that comes up often! One thing to watch is the specifications, including and especially the lower cost brass/copper replacements. I had this problem on a '78 PU. 3 core "extra cooling" parts store copper/brass radiator and she would warm up on a hard pull in hot weather. On a roll. Those rows were thin.

The other is cost. A factory style radiator built or re-cored with a 3 or 4 row high efficiency brass core should cool great. Also not cheap. Same comment on a higher end aluminum unit. They cool great but are not cheap.

The pickup (brand F) got a 4 core Champion. The stock shroud fit and it cools much better than the parts store brass unit.

My stroker BB with AC runs a higher end aluminum radiator (Mancini Muscle Car radiator). Stock mounting, stock hoses and made to order shroud. Cooled great for 10 years, including stop and go in Las Vegas, until a super single gator took it out. I got another.

For the OP, a 3 core Champion may do the trick if they make one for that application. A Mancini or Griffin radiator made to spec should work great. A high end copper/brass unit (Glen Ray I believe) would certainly do it. Personally, in that application, I would try the Champion. If you want to be really sure, the Glen Ray, Mancini or Griffin.

My 2001 V10 5-speed quad cab had the typical aluminum/plastic radiator and I had to replace it at 25K miles. It sat for a few years before I bought it and somehow rotted out the connection between the core and the plastic sides. I also had issues with the heater core because it sat so long without having the coolant flowing.

Brass is better and will last longer. If you use an aluminum radiator, you better buy one of these.