When making a jet change to fatten up,when do you change an air bleed VS fuel jet.I'm at 99 square and still lean.Does the high speed air bleed change the entire fuel curve??
The car is finally responding to small changes and I think I'm close to being dialed in

Dominator? What model #?

send the carb to Dwayne or Dons carb with your combination they'll know what to do with the air fuel ratio.

I am by no means a carb tuner, but I will almost always change the bleeds first. One, they are easier, and two I generally like to keep jets in a certain range.

You have the SV1's on there, correct? Well, then throw away everything you know, and give the engine what it wants. And throw away the PS targeted range he prints on his carb sheet as well. Mine is pretty close now, and I am way different than what is on the sheet. I think my air bleeds are off by almost 15 sizes from what it came to me with. Best idling carb and best stable AFR at cruise I have had. My transition is still rich though. I will have to sort port 5 out some more.

Yes, changing the air bleeds ( lo and Hi ) will move the entire fuel curve up and down. If you are trying to address an off idle lean condition, smaller hi speed air bleeds can address it, but you may have to drop jet sizes to keep from being too rich at WOT. Hard to get it all correct throughout the entire engine operating range without a A/F gauge. I have a A/F gauge and still have a hard time keeping the A/F in the range that my set up likes.

Do not overlook fuel pressure and float heights as well. You may be surprised what another pound or so of fuel pressure will change.

Thanks for replies. Yes I have 2 Sv1's and opened the idle air for a cleaner idle and the jets are up to 99's.I have never gotten this far in carb tuning and just ran what it ran.After installing a Racepak and seeing what going on,I have made changes and saw improvments on the next pass.
Last time I was this high in jet numbers was because the carbs were way too small.I can get bigger jets,but thinking smaller high bleed could lower the main jet requirement concidering my jet box only goes to 99.
Thanks to Ralph with SUPER CAR RACES,I've been able to make up to 4 passes in one day to see results right there & then.

I still need lotsa testing,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Yes, both can make a big difference in moving the curve around, and blower motors ( I run a blow through carb - Prosystems carb also ) can make the sorting out process more difficult. Doesn't look like you are running power valves, so you can at least take that out of the equation.

Last passes of the season were all new best for me.I'm within a few degees of the timing sweet spot and with a little more fuel I should be right there. Still need to see when I turn up the boost,if I will need more fuel or,,,,,once they are dialed in they will just feed the elephant.

I might also add that I'm thrilled with the performance of my 3900 lb brick

Holley offers jets up to #110.
I'd keep jetting before swapping air bleeds.

My experience has been that the air bleed is used more when you're looking to change the shape of the fuel curve( or when the jetting is grossly off, which often means its really the wrong carb).
But, they are easy to change and also easily reversible.

Jet until you get fat then back up jet where you feel you get the best performance,then change air bleeds to fine tune what ever circuit need attention.

Can I dial in AFR's on a chassis dyno or is that best left for the track?

You can get it close but nothing simulates actual track testing except for track testing. I would tune it on the street and get it as clean as you can from idle through transition then to wfo then head to the track.

OP, if you get and use a O2 wide ban system use the spark plugs and time sheets for the best MPH in the 1/4, use the wide ban to identify where it is lean or fat Most of the stock type carbs I've used and tuned on a dyno or at the track that had wide bans on them show the carbs. going fatter above 5000 RPM Right where the high speed air bleeds can help Do one change at a time on the fuel bleeds and air bleeds, the idle air bleeds can and will affect the entire RPM range as far as AFR are concerned, not just at idle RPM

This only works if you're in the ballpark w/bleeds to begin with. My 1050 hp came w/71 idle and 37 hi speed bleeds so the idles were close but 37's are WAY too big for hi speeds and thats why I too needed 99 jets to get it better but not right. Now I'm at 70 idle and 28 highs w/82 and 92 jets w/a nice fuel CURVE not just jet it till wfo is good cos anyone can do that........

Critique this if you will. drop box

Critique what?

That is the weird part about the SV1's...They do not always follow conventional thinking with respect to jetting numbers. Mine ended up with #45 hsb's in it and the jetting is around #88... and still jetting down and its way outside the tuning window he gave me and any other carb of that size. Not to mention its on my 605 instead of the 512 it was bought for...I needed street time and AFR to figure it out.

As I said before, keep going, step by step and give the engine what it wants, and forget about what the jet numbers look like. Watch the AFR...

Have you tinkered with ports 1 & 5 much? Just curious. Your the only other person I know that has one of these....Mine is still rich at transition, everywhere else is very close...I think that is port 5 if I recall.

And what did you do to the throttle linkage that made it work? Last I recall, the suction of the blower pulling the throttles closed was an issue.

Have you ever considered just running one SV1 on the blower? I was looking at the G3 Hemi blower options and I would go one carb if I did one...