Having to strip large sections of the 65 New Yorker to bare steel. I want to treat the metal on this one to give it every possable chance. I know the debate from using epoxy and self etching products together, anyone know if it is advisable to use ospho to treat the metal before spraying epoxy primer? Thanks- Pat

I dont see why you couldnt. Thats one of those products you clean off with soap and water after correct ?

Ive heard to use lacquer thinner to clean it off instead of soap and water so it doesnt flash rust.

I wouldn't use it, sucks getting it off. Water should never be used on bare steel.

Follow the paint manufacturers recommendations, or ask your jobber what they recommend.

Ideally, you'd media blast it and prime it right away.

If you are stripping by hand and choose to use some type of protective product first, I'd hit it with a red scotchbrite or lightly sand the metal before recoating with anything else.

I media blasted to bare steel my project car long ago (several years). Since I had lots of sheet media work to complete I did not want to immediately put the body in primer so I treated it with ospho. Over time I ended up spot treated it a time or two more. After I had finally completed the sheet metal work prior to putting the body in primer I submitted a post and was advised that since I had already treated with ospho to not use self etching and to instead use epoxy primer. Prior to spraying the epoxy primer I thoroughly cleaned the body and even had to do a light sanding to remove a light crust in areas I sprayed the ospho a little to thick. I am a rookie so please take this with a grain of salt; however I am very please with the protection ospho provided.

Body in ospho while doing metal work:

After epoxy primer:

73- you had no prob with the epoxy primer not attaching to the ospho then?

You have to check the p-sheet for the product you are using. Some epoxies are NOT compatible with Ospho, Metal Prep, etc.

You should also scuff the treated surface BEFORE priming to give it some bite.

Redi strip used some stuff like the phospho after srtiping the car and derusting it.
The body shop did not sand the car since it was clean just wiped with laqure thinner to get grease and dirt off. then the sprayed the DP40{not LF} and some pealed off since it needs a machanical bond to the metal so now I only aply to a sanded surface or a blasted clean one.

I have great success with the metal treatment 'Right Stuff'(Advance auto) which is the same premise, then spraying on Zero Rust epoxy after the conversion has taken place over a few hours. That combination works so much better than any Eastwood or other grouping of products I have used. It is also very reasonably priced at under $12 for a quart and ZR is $52 a gallon, in several colors. I couldn't be happier with it. No rinsing or scuffing etc.

Osphos is great stuff..and reasonably priced. If you do it right !
I have my chally sitting in epoxy primer for over a year now...very solid.
What I did was clean off my bare metal with some oil/grease remover, laquer thinner etc.
wipe it all down good and clean.
Next....wipe it down with Osphos on a rag. Doesn't have to be a thick coat, just a thin coat.
Let it dry overnight (bottle says 24 hours, but I didn't mind).
Next...after it is dry...scuff it all up with a red scotch brite pad.
Wipe it all down again, to get the dust and dirt off.
Then I applied 2 coats of DP50L epoxy primer.

Sticks like glue !

I saw somehwre on a PPG article...it recommends using an etching metal prep under the epoxy primer for additinal adhesion. Just have to scuff it to make it all work.