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frame connecters #193958
01/15/09 09:14 AM
01/15/09 09:14 AM
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pittsburgh,Pa.
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mikepar Offline OP
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Hi:
Is there anything special about the rectangular tubing used for frame connecters other than may-
be the wall thinkness.Seems like these could be had alot cheaper than some connecters sold by some frame repair companys. Would it matter oh so much. I'm not drag racing it; I just wanna stiffen my 66 dart convertable up a bit which has had some rust issues in the past,the door drags a bit

Re: frame connecters [Re: mikepar] #193959
01/15/09 02:13 PM
01/15/09 02:13 PM
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Santa Cruz, California
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Lefty Offline
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Quote:

Seems like these could be had alot cheaper than some connecters sold by some frame repair companys




The extra cost is because they have already cut them to fit your chassis. Some are cut to fit the contour of the floor pan. That way they don't stick up above the factory floor pan and cause the carpet to not fit. You can do it yourself and save some money but you will see them sticking up through the floor pan inside the car and you will have to cut the floor pan to fit them. You can go with 2x2" and not have to cut the floor pan, but they will not be as strong as the 2x3s.

Re: frame connecters [Re: Lefty] #193960
01/15/09 02:29 PM
01/15/09 02:29 PM
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Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo Offline
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What do you mean your door is dragging? Are you sure it's not just a worn out hinge?

You can take 2x3 square tube and cut it to fit the contour of your floor then weld it on. A lot of work but not much money if you do it yourself.

Re: frame connecters [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #193961
01/15/09 06:14 PM
01/15/09 06:14 PM
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pittsburgh,Pa.
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mikepar Offline OP
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the hinges are good
Im assuming there may be some bending/flexing

thanks for the reply

Last edited by mikepar; 01/15/09 06:17 PM.
Re: frame connecters [Re: mikepar] #193962
01/15/09 06:15 PM
01/15/09 06:15 PM
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pittsburgh,Pa.
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mikepar Offline OP
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I think I will buy the real thing

Re: frame connecters [Re: mikepar] #193963
01/15/09 08:36 PM
01/15/09 08:36 PM
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West Tennessee
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rbstroker Offline
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The frame connectors in my '65 Dart are simply 2X3X1/8" mild steel. Super easy to build and install. The floor does need to be slotted though, so you will need to redo your carpetting.


This is the land of the free because of the brave
Re: frame connecters [Re: rbstroker] #193964
01/16/09 12:41 AM
01/16/09 12:41 AM
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Puyallup, WA
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StealthWedge67 Offline
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correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there plenty of subframe connectors on the market that DON'T have to be recessed into the floor?


LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
Re: frame connecters [Re: StealthWedge67] #193965
01/16/09 01:14 AM
01/16/09 01:14 AM
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Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo Offline
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Quote:

correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there plenty of subframe connectors on the market that DON'T have to be recessed into the floor?




Yes but they cost more and are not as strong as the ones that keep their square shape and go through your floor.

Re: frame connecters [Re: DaytonaTurbo] #193966
01/16/09 01:04 PM
01/16/09 01:04 PM
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Hamilton, Ontario Canada
Magnum Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there plenty of subframe connectors on the market that DON'T have to be recessed into the floor?




Yes but they cost more and are not as strong as the ones that keep their square shape and go through your floor.




I agree with this 100% and that is the way my last 2 connectors were in a Dart and a Super Bee.

Next question is. Without a cage, does it need to be that strong? How much thicker does it need to be compared to the factory frame?

All I see it doing is transfering load of the rear frame into the front frame. Since the entire deal is flat (no cage), not seeing too much torsional strength anyways. Like a pick up truck.


69 Super Bee, 93 Mustang LX, 04 Allure Super
Re: frame connecters [Re: Magnum] #193967
01/16/09 01:17 PM
01/16/09 01:17 PM
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Wichita,KS
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Blakcharger440 Offline
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Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

correct me if I'm wrong, but aren't there plenty of subframe connectors on the market that DON'T have to be recessed into the floor?




Yes but they cost more and are not as strong as the ones that keep their square shape and go through your floor.




I agree with this 100% and that is the way my last 2 connectors were in a Dart and a Super Bee.

Next question is. Without a cage, does it need to be that strong? How much thicker does it need to be compared to the factory frame?

All I see it doing is transfering load of the rear frame into the front frame. Since the entire deal is flat (no cage), not seeing too much torsional strength anyways. Like a pick up truck.




So are you guys saying that the MP subframe connectors and the ones they sell through Mancini are no good and dont add any benefit to the chassis itself??
These have been used by many racers for a long time and they seemed to have worked everytime. I am not saying that installing them through the floor pan is not better but I feel that these do work and will stiffen up your Mopar.

Re: frame connecters [Re: Blakcharger440] #193968
01/16/09 01:47 PM
01/16/09 01:47 PM
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West Tennessee
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rbstroker Offline
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The original question was about frame connectors for an early (1966) "A" body. I am not sure that they are commercially available. If they are, naturally they would help strengthen the chassis (almost anything would). I believe that unless there is an overwhelming need to have the floor under the seats appear stock, it is much cheaper and much stronger (especially with the '66 convertible) to slot the floor and weld everything completely solid. Just my 2 cents.


This is the land of the free because of the brave
Re: frame connecters [Re: rbstroker] #193969
01/16/09 04:33 PM
01/16/09 04:33 PM
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central IL
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myduster360 Offline
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^^^I agree for the most part but why be statisfied with just a "little stiffer". Either try to make the chassis as stiff as you possibly can or not. Why half-a$$ it ??

Since our car are unibody, the Inner and Outer rocker panels along with the floor pan, are the "Frame" right? With that said, to get the "most" chassis stiffening when installing frame connectors you should:

1) Weld as much of them to the floor pan as possible. The contoured ones XV and a few vendors sell are nice and are the next best thing to huge square tubing.

2) Box the front the rear of the Rocker panels, A-la' convertibles and hemi cars. Don't be fooled thinking thin sheets of metal are a waste. They work.

Other aftermarket tube connectors, if availible, aren't near as good plus they cost more.


1972 Swinger 3.6L Pentastar
Diablo CMR tuner
Re: frame connecters [Re: myduster360] #193970
01/16/09 11:41 PM
01/16/09 11:41 PM
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Posts: 412
Cleveland,Ohio
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CtownChris Offline
mopar
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Check out www.chassisengineering.com

Mopar $99.50 plus shipping.

They are very large not thin walled.

Have them on 71 RR.
These do not go through the floor but are a liitle low. Never hit a driveway though.


"Always go forward: Never go straight"
Re: frame connecters [Re: CtownChris] #193971
01/17/09 12:30 AM
01/17/09 12:30 AM
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Bowling Green KY / Nashville, ...
300by500 Offline
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Quote:

Check out www.chassisengineering.com

Mopar $99.50 plus shipping.

They are very large not thin walled.

Have them on 71 RR.
These do not go through the floor but are a liitle low. Never hit a driveway though.




Yep. Got these for my '69 Barracuda. Very stout, nice for the price and no floor cutting.

Re: frame connecters [Re: 300by500] #193972
01/17/09 12:49 AM
01/17/09 12:49 AM
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Riverside, Ca
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G_bob Offline
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Well, since the floor pans were out of the 64 vert anyway, we inserted the subframe connecters INSIDE the front and rear frame rails. Welded the seams where they enter the rails front and rear, also stitched inside the rails, drilled and plug-welded them on the sides and welded where they touched the new floor pans.
















Done with colored truck bed liner as an undercoating.



Anyway, thats how we did it.

Re: frame connecters [Re: mikepar] #193973
01/17/09 09:29 AM
01/17/09 09:29 AM
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pittsburgh,Pa.
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mikepar Offline OP
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Thanks all! especially the person who posted those pictures of the 64 what an awesome job you did.I also have been using bed liner for a couple o years now,nice to go through the frame at the torsion bar mount of the frame like you did, is what I would do cept that my floors are repaired already. Im doing this as an after thought of the floor repair. I have already templated the front rails and welded 1/8 inch plate on the three sides of the rail and installed new torque boxes. my rails were thin and not holey i reinforced them abit/ Just doing that I noticed a hugh improvement in the handling i can imagine what these frame connecters will do.Come on spring time,too cold now

Re: frame connecters [Re: G_bob] #193974
01/17/09 12:05 PM
01/17/09 12:05 PM
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central IL
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myduster360 Offline
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Very nicely done G_bob


1972 Swinger 3.6L Pentastar
Diablo CMR tuner
Re: frame connecters [Re: myduster360] #193975
01/17/09 04:52 PM
01/17/09 04:52 PM
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West Tennessee
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rbstroker Offline
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I have the 2X2X1/8 square tubing connectors in my Coronet because I didn't want to cut the floor. It is unbelievable how much more rigid the Dart with 2X3X1/8 connectors through the floor is. When the Coronet is on a lift, the doors hang up a bit. The Dart doors close and open easily.


This is the land of the free because of the brave
Re: frame connecters [Re: G_bob] #193976
01/17/09 07:30 PM
01/17/09 07:30 PM
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Santa Cruz, California
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Lefty Offline
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Very nice!

I'm gonna copy your idea as I'm getting ready to cut the floors out of my 66 Coronet for chassis stiffening and new pans.



Quote:

Well, since the floor pans were out of the 64 vert anyway, we inserted the subframe connecters INSIDE the front and rear frame rails. Welded the seams where they enter the rails front and rear, also stitched inside the rails, drilled and plug-welded them on the sides and welded where they touched the new floor pans.
















Done with colored truck bed liner as an undercoating.



Anyway, thats how we did it.



Re: frame connecters [Re: myduster360] #193977
01/17/09 07:35 PM
01/17/09 07:35 PM
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Santa Cruz, California
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Lefty Offline
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Quote:

2) Box the front the rear of the Rocker panels, A-la' convertibles and hemi cars. Don't be fooled thinking thin sheets of metal are a waste. They work.




They are called "shear plates" and really work well.

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