Hello,

A guy has a 340 TA motor for sale that was raced. He states that the motor has been "O-Ringed" and that was a common practice for racers? I can only assume it's grooves around the cylinders that a O-Ring would be place and get sandwiched between the block and heads. Will that cause any problems

No it should not, the biggest concern would be the cylinders and how far they have been bored or will need to be bored to be clean. By the way, generally the groove done for 0-ringing is very small and is designed to use something similar to piano wire, Common practice on nitrious motors. I have personally never seen an actual rubber o-ring used in my adventures, it might be a practice at a higher level of performance than I am familiar with. A good headgasket should not be effected by this type of groove.

O rings are normally used with copper head gaskets in high compression/boosted applications. Look the block over really good for cracks in the main area. Personally, unless I really needed a T/A block for a restoration I would pass unless it is dirt cheap.

Well the TA block was the best one until the X block, so it is the strongest LA block that came in a car.

Even back in the day they were making enough horsepower to break the blocks and you say this one's been raced.

That says to me that the block isn't worth a dime until it passes a Magnaflux examination. Then UT the cylinder walls to see if there's any metal left. Hiope it passes.


If it does and you can afford it IMHO it's a keeper.

R.

The guy said the cylinders are at 0.005 over. There is one sleeve in it but hasn't been magnafluxed. He's asking $3500 firm which I thick is the going price for a bare block but could be wrong for the times. This is the first time I heard about an "O-Ringed" block, And of coarse been raced worries me also. Allot of question??

Thanks everyone for your input. Helps allot!!!!!!

Pass at $3500 I'd pass not a smoking deal and short of a matching numbers block, sleeving one disqualifies it for me. Not sure I would use one if it was given to me, I know the technology is there to do it effectively but that is still influenced by the machinist doing the work.

IMHO, $3500 is way out of line unless you're restoring an engine-less AAR or T/A.

The sleeve wouldn't bother me, but crack inspection and UT are DEFINITELY indicated and should be paid by the seller at that price. Maybe I'm wrong here, if so I want to know what pros think about the value.

Why would you want this block? I'm curious. I mean you could probably buy 10 5.9 Mag blocks for the same amount.

R.

For $ 3500 I would tell him to pound sand. I know blocks are scarce, but geez.

I personally know of a sleeved T/A block that just sold for $4,000 a week ago and not to the matching car I've also heard of one selling not too long ago for almost $5,000. That's just for the blocks. Have you seen how much complete motor goes for? Easily $10,000+. The value is in the block and heads and heads can be found for $2-3,000. It's obvious where the rest of the value is IMO.

Obviously some people will pay "stupid money" for a T/A block. You don't have to be one of them.

I don't recall seeing one in the past go for anything less than "stupid money" as you put it. Does anyone else have any real world numbers on the sale of these motors? As for me, I'm glad my only small block is a 318 satellite because those motors are out of my league either way.

The only way "any" block no matter what should/can go for stupid money is if it were going back in the car that it came from !

This is dead on! A 5.9 block can take just as much HP and you can buy a lot more than 10 with $3500. I would sell you 15 out of my stash for that price. Also it is real easy to run a roller in them.

I have a core 360 truck motor, a core 318 pass motor, a bare w/main caps 77 440 truck block (seasoned) and a 413 HP complete engine in my personal stash of Mopar stuff and am willing to entertain any "stupid money" offer. They have been in storage for more than one year and, for the moment, are warm and dry.