Awesome on the seat. And running with the STI!

Oh the racepac- plug in your tuning laptop and see if the tunerstudio gauges go dead at the same time. It'll help narrow down where the wiring issue is.

Also- radiator hoses- in mine I have to run the clamps pretty darn tight to keep from leaks, especially on the lower hose. And the closer you clamp to the rib without being on top of the rib, the better.

AN oil fittings- tighten that sucker down HARD before you replace it. Works on mine. The only leaks I've had that required more than that were NPT.

If you end up running two clamps per connection make sure you off set them 180 degrees.

My lower hose has 2 clamps at every connection. Seems these things pump some stupid pressure, also have a 30# cap.

Not sure of your cooling status, but wouldn't that be a sign of starting to look at an underdrive pulley combination?

Cooling is good I fixed all the radiator hose leaks!

have you tried the gates heat shrink clamps, they work really well.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gates+power+grip

Its good to hear your car running! I'm so close it's driving me nuts...

have you tried the gates heat shrink clamps, they work really well.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=gates+power+grip

clicky linky > clicky here

Thanks ntstlgl1970!
I should have gotten those clamps in the first place! I pretty much fixed the leak issues just tightened my clamps down all the way.

Just make sure you have the correct crank sensor and plug all the vaccuum ports!

Car has been running good so far.
I was able to fix my IQ3 dash issues by wiring it directly to a 12 volt source. I also fixed my hot starting issues. I actually had a 2 gauge positive cable to the trunk mounted battery and replaced it with a fat 1/0 gauge welding wire. Car starts right up when hot. I did notice a minor oil drip leak from the oil pan port where the temp sensor is but that's an easy fix.

I also drove the car for about an hour straight yesterday around East Bay area. I do drive the car to and from work but it is only a 15 min drive and not enough time to burn up the crap and by-products produced in an engine. I drove about 85-90 miles from Concord to Hayward up past Oakland and Berkeley back home. I was doing about 80 mph and only used about a quarter of a tank of gas. I have a 22 gallon cell so that was only about 5.5 gallons for 85-90 miles which is about 15 MPG. Coolants temps were good too averaging around 195*F.

I still need to get the car weighed and am curious to see if there is any significant weight loss.

That's good news.

Time to get that autotune working on the highway fuel trims and really line it out.

Can you do a video of the racepak dash and post it on facebook? I was looking last night and I couldn't find a decent review of one.

I bought full autometer and innovate gauges for my car, but I would much rather run the racepak and simplify my life.

The RacePak IQ3 display dash is a pretty good entry level digital unit. I have heard the AIM dash is much better easier to use and all the pro's use the Motec CDL3 dash but its way too expensive.

I'll work on & post up a review of the IQ3 pro & cons

I went to my local truck scale today after work.

This is the same truck scale I went to last year with the old 340 engine and half a tank of fuel.
Car weighed 3580 lbs. back then. Only major things I did was cut out the door beams and swap in the aluminum engine.

I found that the truck scale is not that accurate as it measures in 20lbs. increments. Here is the weight.


The first pic says 3500, second is 3480, so I would say the cars weight is about 3490 lbs.
I weigh about 140 lbs. and I have about 10lbs. of crap in the trunk.
3490-150 = 3340

Car weighs approx. 3340lbs. with about 11 gallons (1/2 tank) of fuel.

I think I'll take my Longacre digital scales out to Spring Fling Speed Festival for any participants to check the exact weight and wheel weights.

So you can check it there again to get a accurate measure.