Need to change out the clutches on my trac-lock diff. Making weird rough/rubbing sounds when warm while making tight turns. Been doing it since new and now that I have 5000miles on the diff and talking to Strange, they recommend changing out the clutch pack. They did offer to do it warranty for me but Im in Canada and the shipping costs don't make that the most logical choice.
So I can find someone local to do it for me, but I am also interested in learning something new and while tryin' to save a few dollars I am wondering if this is something I can do on my own. Just need to know if I need any special tools before I start to plan for this. perhaps you guys can convince me to hire a pro, just wanted to get a few opinions. I am and aircraft maint engineer by trade so I am confident I can tackle this job with the right equipment and technical literature. I did get Dana60 overhaul manual off goggle and there were a few tools to get however I heard the S60's were a little more maintenance friendly. Thoughts..?

It is kind of normal for a clutch limited slip to do that, all my powerlocks do it, the hotter they get the worse it gets. I wasted my time changing clutches out before and never made a long term improvement. I have tried every oil, additives and found castrol syntec oil to be the quietest, but when real hot it still does it. I would leave it alone unless its locking and unlocking under load.

The nice thing about the S60 is it uses a threaded adjuster so getting the center in and out is easier. You need to find out what tool is required and obviously get that one. Measure the current backlash and reset it as close as possible when putting it back together ...

Oh and get a better sure grip , the track lock is not very robust ...

I wish that I had an S60. All my experience is with the Dana 60 and I once spent a whole weekend loading the carrier in and out of the housing to get the pattern right. At least I had a kit with setup bearings and did not have to press them on & off. Now I have an OTC Case Spreader and can pop the carriers in and out properly. The best new LSD is the Eaton geared unit, no special lube required. JMHO

Having the wrong oil (wrong friction modifier) will cause what you're describing. Try putting a bottle of the Ford Motorsport limited slip additive in it before you rebuild it.

I have been through 3 oil changes in the diff,each time trying a different friction modifier. used ac delco, mopar brand and a redline brand. Havent tried the ford stuff yet.. maybe worth one last shot.

If I plan to change to a detroit true track down the road can I re-use the ring and pinion off the track lock?

The Ford additive is what Dr. Diff recommends. I had the same issue w/ the Powerlock in the Dana I built for my dad's road runner. It chirped, popped, and made a racket until I put the Ford additive in there. That stuff works.

No problem reusing your ring and pinion. You're just changing the differential...just swap the ring gear onto the new diff. and set your backlash.