I would like to put in a removable trans tunnel in my '67 Belv. It's backhalved with a stock firewall and tunnel/floor. I am still using the stock cable accelerator pedal, but will change it over if I need room. I am sick of fighting this area when I have to get to the bellhousing bolts. Any pictures of what you guys have done would be cool. Thanks

Man you got it easy....I just pulled the 512 out of my Duster and it has a CSR sheild on the 727 with a stock firewall...I said more curse words this past week in the garage than most truck drivers in the same time frame. Not to mention the fender well headers....So I am also open to modified trans tunnel ideas, maybe even more than you....My Cuda is a breeze with a big Hemi and big tube headers.

Stock firewall stock floor board unibody car that is its structure.
It will destroy the car only way I would do it put in a doubler around the entire perimeter nut plates every 2 inches min not zus fasteners put screws or bolts back in the cover plate wild guess that’s about 45 screws the cover plate will have compound curves you will have to stretch and shrink the metal in order to make it.
Can it be done yes, maybe it would be easier to come up with newer cuss words.

Man you got it easy....I just pulled the 512 out of my Duster and it has a CSR sheild on the 727 with a stock firewall...I said more curse words this past week in the garage than most truck drivers in the same time frame. Not to mention the fender well headers....So I am also open to modified trans tunnel ideas, maybe even more than you....My Cuda is a breeze with a big Hemi and big tube headers. [/quote]

Same here with the CSR shield. I was going to just put some holes in the firewall where the bellhousing bolts are but the shield is still way tight in the tunnel.

Stock firewall and floor up front yes, but backhalved and connectors to the front frame with a 12 point 8.50 cert. cage tying it all together.

I needed something for the weekend a few years back so I threw this together in a few hours, I haven't changed it since it's pretty effective and passes tech. I'd like to make a nice one some day.

I cut mine out on my 64 Belvedere. It is not removable. Made it wider and taller. I cut the hole rolled a piece of sheet metal and stuffed it up into the hole from the bottom. Tack welded and trimmed off the excess. Then finish weld. Easy, the stock pedal is still there, and a CSI aluminum shield fits. My motor is up and back , still easy access.
Doug

There's an option!

two piece. splits down the middle held together with 2 dzus fastners. this was the route I chose to take as the back part of the CSR shield was hitting the floor. Prior to this we had holes in the floor that we could access the bell bolts. This is easier yet.

Easiest: cut one out of a donor car, as big as possible (cut into the floor all around).
Remove yours 2" inboard of this outline all around.
Center the overlap etc.
If you have enough fasteners the rigidity will be quite good.

Even in a stock floor pan car, if the stock floor and tunnel is an integral part of the structure of the car, you need some more tubing in the car, because in a race car, the sheetmetal should be just that, sheetmetal.

I had big holes in my GTX that I had cut in there with a hole saw and ran rubber plugs in those holes.........but later put a removable tunnel in it to keep the firewall solid in case of fire

I'll bet I can keep up with anybody on the cussing,,,, '68 Valiant, RB, 727, TTI, all stock front suspension/steering, with ARE motor plate. I'm wondering if an 8 point roll bar will pass tech with firewall/floor board/tunnel modifications???

That looks really nice. I am saving that picture and I want to see if one of the local chassis guys can do that....He just did my door panels and that would blend right in.....

In my Duster, its not that I need a bigger tunnel, I literally can not get at the bolts. I either need holes in the firewall or a removable piece I can access the bolts thru. The back of the engine is right up to the firewall.

You sure are making a job harder than it really is.

I stand back by the tail housing with a 9/16 flex socket on a long extension and run them in or out in less than 2 minutes.
If I need them out sooner, I grab the impact.

BTW Drop the cross member out, it makes it real easy.

Stock floor I drilled 4 holes though the f1rewall and got at them from inside the car. With the new chassis tunnel is removable.

Once you have all the metal and fasteners doped out, don't quit too soon.
Every metal-to-metal seam should be gasketed; adhesive-backed foam is easy & cheap. Use a 1/8" thick by 1/2" wide Frost King, 3M, etc. on both sides, it will generally come apart a few times before you have to replace it.
If you don't?
The first high MPH pass fills the interior (and the back of the dash, and the gauges) with dirt.