Has anyone used the snow kit on naturally aspirated carb motor. there site says it uses a vacuum referenced progressive controller. Durability? how well does it work?

There are RPM and vac thresholds on the Snow that you set. I bought mine used and had a few issues getting it up and running. Snow was very helpful even though I was not the original purchaser and we resolved the problem.

I use mine mainly as an insurance policy. I run a lot of compression on my street car and with the variation in pump gas, the Snow kit keeps me out of detonation territory. I have not re-dynoed the car with the kit, so I do not know if it added anything measurable other than safety.

I used the w/w washer bottle on my Cuda and w/w fluid mixed with HEET as directed in the instructions rather than the expensive Boost Juice.

It has all worked fine for the couple of years that it has been on this car.

That is what I am looking for, the help to eliminate any chance of detonation
I am running 12.7 to 1 compression and using torco accelerator on drag week. So trying to look at all options having to us pump gas.

I'm putting one together in my street car, so no real life experience yet. I can confirm that working with the Snow guys is easy to do. I picked up a kit at a swapped meet and they have helped answer some question for me along the way.

You could very well be ok IF you dont get on it and
pull a few degrees of timing during the road travel
but if you HEAR any knock then either use the meth/
water or pull more timing... if you hear it, ts pretty
bad.. use premium fuel at the pump
EDIT
your cam makes ALL THE DIFFERENCE... check your cranking
pressure

I used one on my 440-6. Mine was activated when the vacuum went to Zero. When you went WOT it would fog the intake under the primary. Some charts would indicate it adds 50hp.. It did add some extra grunt, but I used it more so I could run 93 at the track.

IMO, Snow is the Cadillac of water injection systems. Almost too much adjustability. Controller has 3 adjustable pots. One for NA or Boost motors, one for water turn on ( when the pump starts to pump ), and one adjustment for max flow ( max pump output). Example: In my case ( I run a boosted motor ) I set the first pot on Boost. The controller is now boost referenced off the fuel regulator ( you will need a fuel regulator with a reference port on the top side of the diaphragm ). Second pot is initial pump start which I set at 5 lbs of boost, Third pot is max injection which I set at 19 lbs of boost. Besides those adjustments, you have 3 different nozzle sizes to chose from. The booklet that comes with the system gives you some initial setting guides. The delux kit also comes with a float kit in the tank for low fluid level ( LED light ) also a LED light to let you know the system is operational. Also includes an anti siphon solenoid in the pump feed line. If you are running pump swill and a high CR #, I wouldn't leave home without one. - and don't kid yourself with the - well, I just won't put the pedal to the floor thing.

The reliability is what I am concerned with, on drag week I don't want it going out while I am on the road and leaving me high and dry

I haven't heard any reliability problems with their pumps from guys on another forum I used to be one.

Does anyone use one on a 12 or 13:1 engine so they can run pump gas on the street? You would need to be spraying full-time, not just during WOT.

No you wouldn't. It will run fine until you romp on it.

What is your cranking pressure.. this will tell you
a lot

Buddy of mine races his Road Runner NA with a 493....Motor is right around 14:1....used to run race gas, runs 93 now with the Snow kit. He's jetted a little fat so his ET is off .1, but says he loves it. Pump gas, still running high 9's and he is slowly leaning it out...No issues with reliability.

How would 225psi cranking compression do, MR_P_BODY?

What is your cranking pressure.. this will tell you
a lot
[/quote]

How would 225psi cranking compression do, MR_P_BODY? [/quote]

Not well... really if its above 190-195 your gonna need help
or backing the timing WAY off which isnt good either.. a lot
will say 200 psi.. but with the fuel now days I dont think so

will have to check cranking pressure, the cam is a Howards solid flat tappet 260@.050 288 advertised .657 lift with 1.6 rockers and I have backed timing down between tracks. These thoughts all came about because I pushed a headgasket out into the water passage this year. replaced it outside of union grove, One of the Great Lakes Dragway crew came by and got us to his house so at least we had a flat place to work (many Thanks to Don). went ahead and pulled both heads and the other gasket was pushed some , just not to the water passage yet. I have been running Torco accelerator additive to premium gas in this motor the last two years, no detonation when the torco used, (one tank this year I was not able to put the torco in because I filled the tank up, had to wait a few miles down the road to add the torco.) I always run premium. That is what led me to think about the water/meth injection to help with the stuff they call gas these days. The torco is expensive and rough to carry for dragweek when compared to water/meth injection. From reading snows website I liked the idea that the controller had set inputs on rpm and referenced that amount of injection via vacuum with tha full amount coming in at a set vacuum level. I figured the pumps should be pretty reliable I was more concerned with the controller,
Thanks

Charley,
What head gaskets? If you don't mind me asking...

this is how mine worked.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JYw2q7igDGs

what about if you're having ping problems at part throttle because of a hi-cr? Wouldn't running some water injection at part throttle be better than dialing the timing down to nothing?

What he said...

Im hoping to start building a car for DW in the near future. Motor is a 470 with BS heads and 11.5 comp. I am dropping the gear to a 3.54 and will be using a 9.5 vert. I too am worried about part throttle detonation...

Sell the carb and put injection on it.. let the computer
deal with it... then use a second program for racing OR
let the computer deal with some higher octane.. thats what
I did on my DW car... but I ran into trans problems this
year and didnt make it to DW