1970 GTX Numbers matching 440.... TTI Headers, 4 speed, MSD Ignition, Hughes Cam ...starting to burn some oil...how much misery is entailed to get this motor rebuilt? or just keep adding a little oil and live with it? Don't want to put a crate motor in and devalue the car. And whi in this area can I trust to rebuild it???

Magic 1
New Yoek City


pls respond fo forum or fc1221@aol.com thank you!

You might R&R the valley pan on the chance it is pulling oil up past it. I'd do a compression and a leakdown just for a baseline. read "breakin secrets" at www.mototuneusa.com Just consider this a BTT for ya

It depends on what you want to do with your car If the oil burning isn't bad enough to make you worry and it is not fouling the spark plugs you might want to drive it until you want to fix it If it is bad enough to foul the plugs regulary in city driving maybe it is time to find out why It can be a s simple as the heads and valley pan letting (leaking) oil be suck into the intake runners on the heads, or it could worst like the motor needs a valve job, valve guide and seals or worst Let us know what you decide, BTW it sounds like this is your first foray into HP cars and old muscle car motors, is it? If so shop around to find a good shop to do the work for you Lots of members on here from the big apple area, ask for help and they will usually chime in

How much oil is it burning? How much is it leaking? If less than a quart in 800 miles I'd let it go.

Personally I have a jeep I use as a daily that burns a quart in 200, been that way for 10 years, still runs OK and has good oil pressure so...

RESTORE or BG oil additive they do work on a reasonably worn engine. Don't expect a miracle but I had a 273 that used qt every 400 miles and used BG and qt every 1200 miles . Chemicals will not however rebuild a damaged broken parts engine