I will double check the K member mounts but the car does has a Bob's Profab K member that I recently installed so hopefully they will be ok.

I tried the same test with the engine running and end the play is definitely less with the hydraulic power applied. Could I get someone with a power steering box to try the same test without thier car running to see if they get similar results from the steering box input shaft? It would be just moving the steering wheel back and forth a little without thier car running and observing the input shaft to the steering box. Thanks

The worm shaft should move in and out. That is what tips the spool valve fore and aft to turn left or right. Look at factory service manual.

Try grabbing the intermediate closer to where it meets the steering shaft. pull up down side to side see if there is slop or play

Did you contact Bob's to see if they have any feedback on their systems doing this? Might be a commonly overlooked item.

Look closely at any parts that are bolted together, you're looking for shiny spots or chipped paint that indicates a part shifting around. You may need brighyt lights and a magnifying glass.

I see you have a lot of aftermarket front end parts, but state you torqued everything according to the service manual.
perhaps some/all of these parts have different toque values than stock, and something isn't tight enough, or to tight, causing binding?

Retorque the aftermarket K frame.Find an auto tech with a set of chassis ears & go noise hunting.

Please correct me if I am wrong but the Bobsprofab k members that I have seen have r&p steering, coil over shocks and are intended for light weight race cars. Perhaps you have an Altercation k member instead.

I think Bob's Profab makes a couple different K members or at least did in the past. This one is few years old but takes all of the stock stuff except for a stock style swaybar.

I went out last night and double checked everything and made sure that everything is tight. I drove the car in front of my shop some and I did noticed that it is really more of a series of pops rather than just one pop. Going straight everything seems good then a very slight turn to the left I get 2-3 pops right together and same when turning back straight. It does seem to be worse if I turn while backing up. At this point I am open to any idea but I am fairly confident that its not anything being loose because I have checked and double checked all the fastners a couple of times. I can get an occasional pop out of it in my shop but its hard to duplicate the problem when not driving. With the the front wheels off the ground there is no issues at all. With the tires on the ground I get a pop occasionaly with the engine running or not. One I start drving it pops each time I turn and is easily duplicated but of course it is hard to see what is going on while drving.

Any possibility the tbars ain't square? (as in horizontle) with that being an aftermarket setup. When it went together did the bars slide in with what appeared to be a good fit?

Strut bar bushings? Are they urethane? If so they can creek and pop, lube them. Check strut bar mounting points on k frame and control arms for cracks.

The torsion bars seemed to go in ok. Once I got control arms clocked where they needed to be the bars slid right.

I have been wondering if there is an issue with the strut rods. I used the stock strut rods with the Moog 7026 bushings. Is there a way I could have installed them incorrectly causing the lower control arm to get in bind? I probably should have went with adjustable strut rods since everything is aftermarket and that would have allowed for some adjustability.

Well I think I got my problem figured out. 71GTX471 got it right above. After all the work I did on the moving parts trying to figure out the problem it ended up being the K frame bolts! I think I checked every bolt and fastener in the front end of my car except the K frame and then fixed the problem with a 5 minute retorque of the K frame. Thanks to everyone that offered up suggestions I really appreciate it.

Glade to be of some help,when I worked for Mercedes I would encounter very similar noise complaints & many times it would be the sub frame mounting bolts.