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Replacing U Joints, 1973 Dodge Coronet Wagon, spicers #
#1883031
08/01/15 06:57 PM
08/01/15 06:57 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,129 Cleveland
sunroofgtx
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,129
Cleveland
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Hello, not sure if it get the small spicers without the grease fitting, or the larger one with the grease fitting. It's a factory 400 hp with 727. Thanks. the shop wasn't sure.
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Re: Replacing U Joints, 1973 Dodge Coronet Wagon, spicers #
[Re: sunroofgtx]
#1883080
08/01/15 09:09 PM
08/01/15 09:09 PM
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Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889 up yours
Supercuda
About to go away
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About to go away
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 14,889
up yours
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A simple measurement of the existing U joint will answer the question, if the shop doesn't know that one wonders.
2 1/8 is the small one, 2 5/8 the big one snap ring to snap ring. RockAuto lists it. Cap diameter is different too, 1 1/8" is the large joint, a hair over 1" is the small one. If I were to guess, I'd guess you have the small one.
They say there are no such thing as a stupid question. They say there is always the exception that proves the rule. Don't be the exception.
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Re: Replacing U Joints, 1973 Dodge Coronet Wagon, spicers #
[Re: sunroofgtx]
#1883137
08/01/15 10:37 PM
08/01/15 10:37 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,129 Cleveland
sunroofgtx
OP
I Live Here
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OP
I Live Here
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 12,129
Cleveland
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Thanks super. He gave me 6 of them, 2- Spicer 5-789x, 2- neapco 1-6300hd and 2- neapco 2-1175hd. I'll find out tomorrow when I replace both the front and rear. Making the wagon road worthy for the 2 hour trip to the Nats. Thanks.
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Re: Replacing U Joints, 1973 Dodge Coronet Wagon, spicers #
[Re: sunroofgtx]
#1883262
08/02/15 01:36 AM
08/02/15 01:36 AM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040 Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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solid (not hollow/no zerk) ones are needed in high HP apps/more $$/must be taken apart to regrease. not needed in your app. BFH is my least fav tool but just me hammering the caps in with several well placed licks is better than pressing them in with a vise. after they' re in move the front yoke back & forth in both planes and the rear ujoint in the one plane & it MUST be smooth. if not lay the shaft on your bench & whack both "ears" on each end several good ones with the BFH as needed then recheck for smoothness. repeat till you get smooth travel. unless you hammer swings are dead on it might be a good idea to use a brass drift so you hit the ear dead on. the ear is the metal piece on each end (2) that connects the ujoint "hole" with the rest of the main shaft body
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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