I have the Mcleod 500 series single clutch behind my hemi with a Hays blow shield. With the throw out bearing in the fork and the fork even across the blowshield I have about a 1 1/2" gap between the bearing and the fingers of the pressure plate. If I move the fork backwards (to the rear of the car) it will take up the slack, but then my clutch adjustment rod is way too short. I suppose I could use an A-body rod with is about 4 inches longer, but does the space behind the bearing seem right?

I called Mcleod and they seem to think the fingers on the pressure plate are indexed wrong. They are nice enough to let me send it back for another but I am not sure that is the problem?

What kind of clutch fork pivot do you have? Is it adjustable? By going with a longer adjuster rod, will it hit anything when the clutch pedal is depressed?
I run an Ansen scattershield and placed a couple flat washers between the clutch fork pivot and the bellhousing.

It's a stock working pivot with a stock clutch fork
I don't think the longer adjuster will hit anything
Think I should just try that?

I run longer adjusting rods in my 'Cuda. Lakewood shield with Ram B&B plate. Won't hurt anything. Works fine. Check linkage clearance with headers. Some mods might be required.

It would be the easiest fix, so, yes, I'd try it.

Sounds like you need a longer throwout bearing body for the throwout bearing, is your scattersheild a Hayes or Lakewood? If Hayes it is really old and may have been deisigned for one of the longer Mopar throwout bearings I've seen three different lenghts on them

Well now that you put it that way Cab, I am not sure.. Lol
I thought the design was the same between the two.
It probably is a Lakewood. Do you know if the pivot
Point for the fork can be shimmed out as mentioned above?

I've been working with MOPAR manual transmissions for a long time and maybe I've been working with my head in the sand, but I've never seen different lengths on throwout bearings. I know that there are 2 ID's.(23 spline and 18 spline). I have seen different length throwout bearings on GM applications though. If there is such a thing, can you pass on what applications to look for?
As far as the pivot in the bell housing.. If it is attached with 2 bolts like my Ansen, then yes, you can shim it, but make sure you go with longer bolts, but not too long as to have them protrude out and hit the face of the transmission..

I havent seen a longer body for TOB since the 60s when I ran them in my 60 Dodge.I do know the pivots make a big difference.I have an old Lakewood in the car and a Ansen I think in the garage.Both take the same pivot for my 65.The later type wouldnt work.Rocky

Clutch fork bracket on a Lakewood shield is riveted in. You would have to drill or grind it out, and then add shims behind it. Just put in a longer adjusting rod.