How do I tell if the pushrods are touching the head and need clearancing? I can't see in there very well with the rocker. I've been shining a light from the bottom and doing a weird dance to try seeing all around it but there has to be a better way.

I have an RB with standard port victor heads, Hughes 1.6 rockers and smith brothers 3/8ths pushrods, so far I've done one side and I haven't seen any that looked like they hit but I have read about other peoples issues and I worry I am missing something

What I did was tape the pushrod with one turn of wide masking tape. My tape is about 0.005 inches thick. I then turn the pushrod and then rotate the cam 360 degrees. The tape will tell you if you are hitting the head.

I have a motor with a set of Victor heads with M.W. intake ports, I bought a unused top end kit from a member on here. It came with a set of Hughes 1.5 rockers, I called Hughes to find out how much spring pressure they would hold up to and once I told them I was shooting for 250 to 275 lbs on the seats and from 640 to 680 lbs opended at .700 (solid roller cam from Bullet)they said to send them back and exchanged them for a cyro treated set for the shipping and cyro treating charges only I ended up getting a set of thier 1.6 cyro treated rockers and I had to grind my heads to clear the Mnaton 3/8 pushrods. I ended up having several of those adjusters come loose after racing the motor last year, after having the second one fail and ruin another rocker arm, adjuster and pushrod I bought a set of heat treated(very expensive, $14.00 each) adjusters only, not the Manton 12 point lock nuts One of those original lock nuts came loose agian ruining another rocker arm, adjuster and pushrod so I bought a complete set of Harland Sharp rockers for those heads, several of the intake pushrods rubbed and made the adjusters come loose agian I just finished grinding both heads last week to make sure there is absolutely no rubbing by the pushrods to the heads or block cold Set the lash and use your fingers to turn, rotate, the pushrods between the rockers and lifters with the intake manifold and valley pan off with both valves closed, if they rotate freely cold your probally golden That's the way I did mine this time, IHTHS I was going to take some pictures of both heads after the grinding but I didn't do to not knowing now how to attach pictures now, sorry Good luck

Thanks guy! I might try both methods because I have nothing but time these days. This is my first "performanceish" build and want to make sure I don't screw up.

Thanks for the warning on the adjusters Cab I will keep my eye on them and buy a new/different set if there are any signs of trouble. My build is a fair bit milder then yours. with 155# on the seat and 415# @ .650. Cam is a Hughes 5054BS3 250/254 -108ºLSA .627/.640

My engine probably won't see as many runs as someone racing, but my races could be 40 seconds of wide open throttle.

Make sure you have a larger than stock oil pan and good oil return to the pan for any blast lasting longer than 20 seconds above 5000 RPM

I have a truck pan that I extended to hold an extra 3 quarts. As for the oil return I've never been able to find info much on this so I ground the block to match the holes in the heads, ground the drain hole in the heads a bit so there was a V towards the the valley they had cast and cleaned every bit of flashing out of the block and polished the valley a bit. Hopefully it's enough.