Car is sitting still in park. I set the timing to spec and still get the bog. I'll have time to check the advance tomorrow if I can remember how. This is no resto. It's a completely stock and original car other than things like brakes.
By "resto" the point I was making is that the engine and drivetrain is stock, and therefore the factory specs are a good baseline.
I'll describe checking advance later but all information here points to a lack of fuel. Specifically, not enough fuel as the throttle is
quickly opened from an i
dle or slightly off-idle position. Therefore either the idle/transition ciruit is too lean to begin with, or the pump shot is insufficient in some way. If there is a hesitation when opening the throttle very slowly, then idle/transition circuits too lean. Also may want to check your pollution controls which can sometimes screw up the initial settings.
I don't think the ignition side is your problem. You'ld have miss or backfire, not a bog. But here's how to check the mechanical advance. Vacuum is similar.
Advance specs for the distributor are in the back of the electrical section. Since you're doing it on the engine, you will need to convert the specs. When I check a dizzy on the engine here's what I do:
Engine warmed, pull the dist vacuum hose and plug the hose with a golf tee. (A cap on the carb or manifold port works just as well).
Adjust carb speed slightly if needed to get a stable rpm. Measure rpm with tach (I use a old school tach/dwell on the coil for stock ignitions). Measure timing with timing light.
Write down both!
Slowly increase rpm (you can use the idle speed screw or have helper) and repeat the above every couple of hundred rpm. However, to check for spec, this is overkill. Just check for points specficied. For example, '68 340 w/ A/T:
first two points are -
0 dist deg @ 325 to 475 dist rpm and
0 to 3.6 dist deg @ 475 rpm
=> therefore check at 650 and 950 engine rpm.
Then the next spec is
7.1* to 9.1* @ 770 rpm
= > therefore check at 1540 engine rpm
Final spec is
10.5* to 12.5* @ 2000 rpm
=> therefore check at 4000 rpm (which is above most tach/dwells range, you'll need another type of tach for this).
Then for each timing point read, subtract your base timing. For the same engine the FSM says 5* BTC at 650 rpm, and lets say your first reading was 5* at 500 rpm and the next was 5* at 650, therefore advance at 650 is 0 degrees. Perfect.
Next, lets say the timing read at 900 rpm was 8 degrees.
8 - 5 = 3*
Spec was 0 to 3.6 dist degrees = 0 to 7.2 degrees.
Therefore 3* is in spec.
Let's do one more. Say the timing at 1500 rpm was 20 degrees.
20 - 5 = 15 degree advance
Spec at 1540 engine rpm was 7.1 to 9.1 = > 14.2 to 18.2 crank deg. 15 degrees is in range, still good.
With today's pump gasoline, especially e10, you may find that a little less vacuum or total advance resolves pinging - if that is an issue.
) if that doesn't do it try loosening it a little. 
set timing properly first, so you are not shooting yourself in the foot. Then check the pump shot. The pump should start to squirt as soon as you move the throttle. If the squirt happens after the throttle is already moving, that will be a bog. Three different holes on the pump lever arm to choose.