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Big block oil pump #1853080
06/20/15 10:29 AM
06/20/15 10:29 AM
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I am currently rebuilding my 499 cube street stroker motor. I originally was using a high pressure oil pump and the pressure when cruising was 65 and 25 at idle(hot)with 10w40.

Should I be using a standard or HV on this build? I am going to stick with the 3/8 pickup.

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1853100
06/20/15 11:03 AM
06/20/15 11:03 AM
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your cruise psi is higher than needed but not a dealbreaker by any means. #1 pick the thinnest weight of oil you can get by with for your app. use the lowest level of pump/spring combo to maintain 8 psi per 1K of RPM. levels are std pump/std spring std pump stiff spring hi vol pump std spring hi vol pump stiff spring. use just what you need as more stresses/wears the cam gear/inter gear/intergear bushing, again not a dealbreaker. Your idle psi can be lower than what you have & if it jumps up immed when you punch it you are fine. I'd be more wanting to do extensive oiling mods first then pick the wt then pick the pump/spring. bottom line as you know is can your pump/spring maintain enough psi & the rods are the end of the line/critical area, #1 #1 are they getting fed properly.


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Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1853729
06/21/15 12:06 PM
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Thanks RapidRobert for your feedback.

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1853828
06/21/15 03:32 PM
06/21/15 03:32 PM
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What is working for me is a HV pump with 15w/40 Rotilla T. I did the oiling mods to the block except for the 3/8" oil pick. I'm not a professional racer, by no means, every hundredths of a second mean nothing to me. You might call me a "weekend warrior", at best, at times. When cold my idle pressure is close to 90 psi. At temp. (160*), my idle,(1200 rpm) pressure is 55 psi. At 2000 rpm it holds steady at 65 psi. The most I try to rev the engine to is 6500 rpm. Just sharing my experience. Have fun....


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Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1853875
06/21/15 04:57 PM
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i'm using a high volume pump with a stock pressure relief spring. hot idle is 40psi (with narrow full groove mains) and 55-60psi at cruise. cold pressure will go to 65-70psi. i don't use heavy oil.

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: lewtot184] #1853915
06/21/15 06:33 PM
06/21/15 06:33 PM
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Rio Linda, CA
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High-volume pumps come with the high-pressure spring.


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Re: Big block oil pump [Re: John_Kunkel] #1853958
06/21/15 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted By John_Kunkel

High-volume pumps come with the high-pressure spring.
iagreeYou can trim the bypass spring to set the oil presure you want with hot oil, I like 10 lbs per 1000 RPM at WOT, IE 65 lbs at 6500 RPM up I do use 5W20-Wt oil also so you can have 65 lbs at idle with cold oil and see 20 lbs with hot oil at 850 RPM and still have 65 lbs with hot oil (above 180 F) at 6500 RPM scope work


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Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1853970
06/21/15 08:59 PM
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the high volume pumps heavy high pressure spring is taken out and thrown in the junk box in my garage. excessive pressures eat up the intermediate shaft and bushing. the only use for those heavy springs is for bottom end bleeders that can't make pressure any other way.

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: lewtot184] #1853997
06/21/15 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted By lewtot184
the high volume pumps heavy high pressure spring is taken out and thrown in the junk box in my garage. excessive pressures eat up the intermediate shaft and bushing. the only use for those heavy springs is for bottom end bleeders that can't make pressure any other way.
HMMM Makes sense.


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Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1854014
06/21/15 10:58 PM
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The high pressure standard volume pump that I used was putting some good wear on my bronze distributor gear. I was lucky to see 1000-1500 miles before it required replacing.

So if I use the high volume pump, and remove the heavy spring which spring do I replace it with?

Do the high volume pumps put extra wear on bearings and the distributor gears?

Does the pressure also increase with the high volume pumps, or is the pressure only affected by the bearing clearances?

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1854041
06/21/15 11:42 PM
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i did the big pump/light spring thing as a test and it seems to do what i want. i think the larger rotors will provide some extra volume but i wanted it at lower rpm ranges were most of my driving is done. i think a little extra volume helps the low rpm pressure. i got tired of the 18-20psi hot idle in gear while running "molasses" in the sump. i have a 5500rpm engine and don't need the 75+psi stuff with the related issues. keep in mind that pressure is not an indicator of flow but of restriction. tight bearing clearances, half groove mains with a big high pressure pump aren't practical. i use a 1/2" pick-up that will feed the larger rotors. a 3/8" pick-up and big pump makes little sense to me. how can you push more fluid thru the engine if the supply to the pump isn't increased? probably the best general purpose relief spring was the old black street hemi but i think they've been gone for years. i measure spring free lengths and wire diameter and try to make a logical decision about what to do. i have a bunch different "stock" springs i've played with to get the combo i wanted. i've used the heavy springs on loose bearing clearance/wide rod side clearance bleeders without issue.

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1854054
06/21/15 11:51 PM
06/21/15 11:51 PM
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Quote:
So if I use the high volume pump, and remove the heavy spring which spring do I replace it with?

Do the high volume pumps put extra wear on bearings and the distributor gears?

Does the pressure also increase with the high volume pumps, or is the pressure only affected by the bearing clearances?

(1) one from a stock pump (2) bearings no dist gears yes (3) A I believe it will. B As said psi is a measure of restriction which includes bearings and everything else downstream


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Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1854073
06/22/15 12:11 AM
06/22/15 12:11 AM
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So I guess I should first know what bearing clearances I will have with my build. What about using a stock volume stock psi pump?

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1854083
06/22/15 12:23 AM
06/22/15 12:23 AM
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Both of the high volume oil pump brands sold in the U.S. usually have the bypass spring pressure set at 80 lbs, some may be as high as 90 and some may be as low as 70 lbs cold, depending on the oil viscoty and outside air temps. I would never throw a new Hi Po part in the trash, tsk I would and do trim them (the bypass springs up)or grind(slowly a little bit at a time to avoid overheating from grinding) them down to reduce the overall lengths to get the pressures I want scope The longer rotors do suck in more oil and provide more volume of oil into the motor, the oil pump can only pump as much oil as the motor will take before the bypass spring and valve opens, kicks in, and starts bypassing oil back into the pump. I do set my rod and main bearings up with a lot of clearance(.0032+ on both) so I get a lot of oil flowing through the motor while running, you need to remember that the cam is oiled from the bottom by splash oiling slung from the crankshaft assembly so it is hard to over oil it work whistling IHTHs up As far as bronze distribotor oil pump drive gears there are soft ones out there and there are good ones, the good ones last a lot longer than the soft ones do work shruggy I've seen both used in other builders motors and seen the soft ones fail on the dyno breaking in and testing the motor tsk

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 06/22/15 12:25 AM.

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Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1854472
06/22/15 05:26 PM
06/22/15 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted By Beep Beep

So if I use the high volume pump, and remove the heavy spring which spring do I replace it with?


Generally speaking, the high pressure spring is painted black or natural color, the standard pressure spring is painted red.


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Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Cab_Burge] #1854526
06/22/15 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Both of the high volume oil pump brands sold in the U.S. usually have the bypass spring pressure set at 80 lbs, some may be as high as 90 and some may be as low as 70 lbs cold, depending on the oil viscoty and outside air temps. I would never throw a new Hi Po part in the trash, tsk I would and do trim them (the bypass springs up)or grind(slowly a little bit at a time to avoid overheating from grinding) them down to reduce the overall lengths to get the pressures I want scope The longer rotors do suck in more oil and provide more volume of oil into the motor, the oil pump can only pump as much oil as the motor will take before the bypass spring and valve opens, kicks in, and starts bypassing oil back into the pump. I do set my rod and main bearings up with a lot of clearance(.0032+ on both) so I get a lot of oil flowing through the motor while running, you need to remember that the cam is oiled from the bottom by splash oiling slung from the crankshaft assembly so it is hard to over oil it work whistling IHTHs up As far as bronze distribotor oil pump drive gears there are soft ones out there and there are good ones, the good ones last a lot longer than the soft ones do work shruggy I've seen both used in other builders motors and seen the soft ones fail on the dyno breaking in and testing the motor tsk
anybody who knows anything about spring rates knows that trimming springs doesn't reduce the spring rate.

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: John_Kunkel] #1854528
06/22/15 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted By John_Kunkel
Originally Posted By Beep Beep

So if I use the high volume pump, and remove the heavy spring which spring do I replace it with?


Generally speaking, the high pressure spring is painted black or natural color, the standard pressure spring is painted red.
all the originals were red. i've seen and have pink and natural colored "stock" springs from aftermarket stock pumps. this is why i measure the length and wire diameters to try and get an "apples to apples" comparison. never know what your buying anymore.

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: lewtot184] #1854644
06/22/15 08:00 PM
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Originally Posted By lewtot184
Originally Posted By Cab_Burge
Both of the high volume oil pump brands sold in the U.S. usually have the bypass spring pressure set at 80 lbs, some may be as high as 90 and some may be as low as 70 lbs cold, depending on the oil viscoty and outside air temps. I would never throw a new Hi Po part in the trash, tsk I would and do trim them (the bypass springs up)or grind(slowly a little bit at a time to avoid overheating from grinding) them down to reduce the overall lengths to get the pressures I want scope The longer rotors do suck in more oil and provide more volume of oil into the motor, the oil pump can only pump as much oil as the motor will take before the bypass spring and valve opens, kicks in, and starts bypassing oil back into the pump. I do set my rod and main bearings up with a lot of clearance(.0032+ on both) so I get a lot of oil flowing through the motor while running, you need to remember that the cam is oiled from the bottom by splash oiling slung from the crankshaft assembly so it is hard to over oil it work whistling IHTHs up As far as bronze distribotor oil pump drive gears there are soft ones out there and there are good ones, the good ones last a lot longer than the soft ones do work shruggy I've seen both used in other builders motors and seen the soft ones fail on the dyno breaking in and testing the motor tsk
anybody who knows anything about spring rates knows that trimming springs doesn't reduce the spring rate.
Let's see, if we reduce the overall length of the spring, especially when it is already compress some,loaded under compression, and the oil pressure drops when hot after shortening the spring, I assumed that reduced the oil pressure, which was exactly what I wanted to accomplish work My training on springs, if my memory is serving me half way accurately now,is shortening the spring increases the unloaded spring rating, is that correct or not confused shruggy

Last edited by Cab_Burge; 06/22/15 08:01 PM.

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Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Beep Beep] #1854664
06/22/15 08:26 PM
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Cutting a few coils off the spring can reduce the oil pressure since it might allow the bypass to start sooner. But it is a "haphazard" way of doing it. A softer spring is the best way to control the bypass. A short spring with a high rate can cause problems.

I have a whole box of pump springs out in the shop so when I get a pump that doesn't behave quite right I just measure the spring rate of the old spring and then find one in the box that does what I want.

The spring rate is fairly easy to measure if you rig up a little fixture. All you need is a weight and a ruler.

Re: Big block oil pump [Re: Cab_Burge] #1854728
06/22/15 09:34 PM
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I have always had good luck either trimming the springs a little to lower the pressure or shimming them to gain some pressure. I understand that doing either one does not change the spring's rate, but I can tell that doing one or the other almost always changes my oil pressure.

Just my twocents


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