I am in the process of a 572 hemi build for my 69' Roadrunner. I really want to buy a new set of Indy valve covers but am worried about clearance issues. I want the regular set and not the ones that have the indent on the passenger side for aesthetics purposes so i am curious what people are doing for adjustments? To be honest, I would rather raise the engine a little or modify the shock towers than buy the indented valve covers. If raising the engine just a touch is the way to go, how much is enough? I don't think raising it up would really affect it considerably unless it was well over an inch. I will be having my regular k-frame converted over to the hemi mounts so maybe could have opt for some taller brackets or something? I know many people have done it, I just want to know what people have done to overcome the situation. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Bret

I modified the shock tower on the Hemi Dart clone I am currently working on. I would say that is the easiest fix in the long run. I hammered the tower back as far as needed to clear for valve cover removal. Then I cut out the damaged sheet metal, welded in new flat metal, then metal finished to clean up the welding. I also moved the shock mounting hole outboard 3/4". It ended up looking stock with necessary clearance to remove valve cover when needed. If done right nobody can tell from stock. Good luck.

I have the Indy cast valve covers on the hemi in my '70 cuda and had to dent in the shock tower for clearance.

If you raise the engine, keep in mind that the drive train angle will be impacted. Just something else to have to deal with.

On mine, I moved the pass shock over about 3/4" and made a notch in the shock tower rather than beat it into submission. I still have to loosen the pass mount and jack the engine up to get the valve cover off.

Are the Indy's bigger than the Stage V's

Probably not much help, but fwiw...

...The Stage V's clear the rh shock tower in my 70RR but not by much. iirc the shock wasn't in when I put the v/c on. Haven't put a load on this motor yet,... it may hit.



Heater hoses are a bit close.



Battery is a bit close even though it's moved as far as it'll go towards the fender.



And the battery tray had to be trimmed



I had to lower the rear of the motor at the trans cross mount just a bit to get the passenger side tti collector off the T-bar. Really didn't want to, but gotta do something, & that helped with the heater hoses some.

Mega Parts Hemi K & stock mounts & brackets.

Wow, thank you for all the responses especially with the pics. I think i will go with some stage V's instead since the look a touch more contoured for fit in that area and I may notchor slot the shock mount hole as well and flatten or cut out and wild in a flat piece on the corner of the inner fender between the shock bolt and the valve cover. Again, thank you for making it so clear. Bret.

Some drawbacks to the Stage V's:

1) They like the "correct" upper tube seals from John Arruzza.

http://www.arruzzahighperformance.com/Parts/Parts.html

Scroll down about 11 pages worth.



2) The tube doesn't stick up past the cover to help catch the hat to keep it centered. So the hat may vibrate off center a little depending on your hat adjustment on the wire. You'll notice some of mine are a little sunk in to keep them tight. The motor in my pic's hasn't been on the road yet. Not sure yet if they'll stay put. They have with cooling system tests, with the car in the shop. ymmv