Im getting ready to do a short fill on my low deck 400 block and was wondering if i could do the fill without the freeze plugs in? The instructions call for them to be installed but honsestly i dont have any on hand and was in the mod to do one side today i have the block clean and level to do the block fill.
Also about how high in the coolant chamber will a 1 gallon 7.5 pounds of fill get me.

Any and all help is always appreciated

I would hold off till tomorrow.. get the plugs then
level the block and do your fill... tap it a lot with
a dead hammer... it would be your lock that it would
over fill some and you couldnt get the plugs in

Put the freeze plugs in first. If you don't you will hate life trying to get them in later the cement is porous and will leak. Don't know how much of the fill it will take but make sure you have enough on hand to get it done. You don't want to stop in the middle and get more.
Also if you put the freeze plugs in, then measure, you'll know how much it will take.

Ok guys thats sound advice ill hold off till i get some freeze plugs. I have 4 gallon bottles of fill so i believe i have more then enough to do it everything ive read one bottle is good for a short fill on most v8 but i dont have any experience myself.
Im hoping to let the block set for a month till i have the final machine work done
Thanks Aaron

Couple more things billet main caps and gridle are torqued down and I was going to torque a head down after the fill,what should i torque the heads to after the fill
Aaron

Why do you think you need to run block filler or cement in a block? I've heard all the hype about it making the cylinder walls stiffer, I've also seen a motor on the dyno have two different tempature zones in the block with filler and above the filler, that can and will make the cylinder walls expand differently in the two zones I use to race NHRA stock, I've help several different division Seven stock racers set NHRA racers with non filled SB and BB, they outran the same cars(all Mopars) in the same class with filled blocks I like and use 400 blocks to make stroker motors, both race motors and pump gas street and strip motors, I do sonic tests on them before having any machine work done If I have at least .150 thick on the major and minor thrust sides after boring and at least .090 after boring on the thinnest non thrust sides I will build it for a street and strip motor I've made over 700 HP on pump gas with a block like those that lived a long trouble free life on the street and at the strip Don't forget that ALL cement shrinks as it cures and it is porous enogh to allow water to soak through it

I used 1 gallon per side for a tall fill on my 400 block and that is real close to having to much.

Level the block both side to side and fore and aft
then pour in the fill... measure down to the freeze
plug holes so you get a idea where your filling to..
once you fill the first side then do the same thing
on the other side... I assume your filling to the
bottom of the freeze plugs

Torque all the stuff to the spec your using.. thats
heads, mains you name it.. let it set up 3-4 days then
set up for the other side

Cab barge i knew theres alot of debate out there about block fill and gridles. Im building a 470 stroker turbo motor and im fully aware ill be pushing my luck with a stock block so for alittle added insurance im adding the block fill
Aaron

I would have the plugs in it.
I like to go to the middle of the plugs on my fill.
I like to torque the head and mains.

Measure the head bolt boss inside the water jacket, then stay under those a 1/4 inch or you will cut off your water flow.

You can tilt the deck and make the thrust side have a slightly taller fill if you wish, just don't cut the water circulation off by filling to tall.
Good luck

Moving on to the next questions. Whats your guys preferences for bearing?
Im running a billet solid roller cam,everything ive read says stock coated cam bearings will work for peak 7000rpm motor fine. True or not?
Main bearings im running rb main size with billet main caps on my crankshafts and im not sure what style mains to run im thinking FM 4095m
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/8479807/site_id/1#import
Next rod bearing im running a set of callies ultra 6.535 chevy 2.2 rods whats a good choose of rod bearing.
I havent purchased pistons yet thats going to be one of the last things bought before assembly and after i get the block fill done and final bore machined.
Im looking for some advice before i starting getting this motor together and any and all help is always appreciated
Aaron

Spend the money when ordering pistons, on the wrist pins. Chevy rods have a smaller dia pin than chry. Get the tapered tool steel pins.

Thanks thats good advice.
Is there any piston distributers members here on moparts? I havent decided on a piston choice yet but was looking at and have heard pretty good things about the off self pistons 440 source sells.
Aaron

I went with J&E on my new pistons, there due in the mail any day.
I went tool steal pins, lateral gas ports, thermal coating, and inverted dome.

Fast what compression height are you running,the pistons you ordered sound perfect for my application. Sounds like your building a forced induction motor id love to here some details about your setup.
Thanks for the reply any advice about bearing selection
Aaron

I'm using Clevite main and rod bearings. 440 main and big Chevy Rod pin. I have GRP rods so my bearings have holes in it.

I'm pulling the stock block, cast iron Indy -1, 500 out next week and sticking a new combo in it. The stock block combo is my old bracket motor out of my Valiant with a thick head gaskit and a turbo cam. It's hit 30 psi every time I took it. I used it to get a handle on the tune and to shake down the chassi I built. It's been an anvil. I have broke yoke and driveshaft, burned up FAST box's, and had the tune so far off it would stop reving and bog.

The new combo is so I can start turning it up
It's alum heads and block, mostly for weight, 300 pounds less, but picking up some bore and stroke also. It should take the abuse a lot longer then the stock 69 440 block lmao.

I'm not sure on the compression height, we built the piston custom. The rods are around 7 inch, there custom as well.



What's your plan with your combo? Are you looking to make 20-30 psi or you building a street'r ?

FastmOp my plans are to run low boost 8 to 12 psi the car is a 62 valiant formally a e85 slant turbo that when i built the car i left alot of room to grow fuel system is up to par i might have to change the aeromotive a1000 out to something different like 3 walbros 392 but time will tell on that. The car has a msd 6al-2programable ignition,and a ams500 boost controller with co2 and also a co2 crutch assit for brpvs on the carb.
Im going to have to do some chassis work in the future and tub the car but as of right now the frames are tied and the leafs are moved in 3 inches with a 8 3/4 2.93 suregrip and caltracs.
And a roll bar which will need to be updated.
I have a empty block and trans in place now and im awaiting my header flanges and some bends so i can start construction of my turbo headers.
It should get intresting im running out of space fast

Freeze plugs are installed and the block has been prepared for partial fill.

Bump to questions regarding main and rod bearings
Any and all help is always appreciated.

Aaron

Main and rod bearings are part specific. Your crank filet and rod size will dictate the direction you go.
My bearings might not be the right choice for you, and I may have chose wrong for me lol. I don't do this for a living.
Ben at Promax in Indy and I talked for a wile and he is a good guy. He researched and discussed what he found with me and then I picked the bearings. He is who I picked up my Indy block from and he knew my plan was to run it hard.

I see your parts include the 2.2 Chevy rod, my rod bearing is a Clevite CB-743 HND. The mains are MS-1277 HG

What parts are you going to use in the block, what bore/stroke combo, just get a tuff piston and you should be happy.

Don't limit yourself on boost numbers, don't be scared to turn it up.