I installed the Flaming River push pull cut off switch. Kills all the lights just not the motor! What am i missing and what am i supposed to do to fix it? Thanks joe

Alternator back-feeding the ignition system?

If you have just a two pole switch you will need to have the alt cable go all the way back to the battery. That way when you turn it off the alt can only feed the battery and the car will die.

that

I have a 10 gauge wire running from the aternator to the battery already. Some guys on Yellow bullet say i need a relay to kill it. Dont know dont really care anymore. Instructions were an absolute joke. Told nothing

There has to be something piggy backing on that wire. Do you have anything else spliced into your 10 gauge wire?

you need to wire it to the battery side of the switch ...so went to turn the switch off the alternator does not feed the ignition...

got 3 cars wired that way..

Yep run the Alt wire to the battery side of the switch. By wiring it to the battery you are not isolating it.

Nothing piggy backing on that wire and it is wired on the battery side of the sitch. It wont shut the car off if you push it in. But if you try to start the car with it pushed in it wont start.

I have the wire leading to the alt wire to the same post on the switch as the pos battery cable. Is that right?

yes, that is correct.

Do you have a warning light (for alternator not charging)? It may be able to back-feed enough current to keep your ignition alive. The fix is a diode in that line, arranged so the current can only flow from the battery through the light to the alternator, and not the reverse...

OK That has me confused(not to hard to do) What is the difference between the battery post and the switch post if the battery cable runs from the post to switch post? Would not both locations be connected by the battery cable?

You can do it with a relay.. not the simplest way
to do it... you run JUST the single lead from the
alt output(the big wire) all the way back to the
battery side of the master switch... it will kill it..
are you running any kind of continues duty relay for
anything

The preferable setup is the two-pole (four terminal) cutoff switch (one for battery cable, one for alternator cable). If you have the more common single-pole (two terminal) switch, then run the alternator cable back to the battery side of the switch. Then when the switch is pulled, the alt will only be charging the battery, not running your ignition, fuel pump etc. and the car will die. Please note my earlier warning about current back-feeding through the alternator dash light - this is a known problem with MSD and other electronic ignition setups.

The only problem with the single-pole switch is that the alternator cable is hot at all times, since it's connected directly to the battery. This is OK by NHRA rules which specify that the engine must shut off when the switch is pulled... although there is some heated discussion about the "spirit vs. letter of the law" on FABO.

So I would highly recommend that you put a fuse rated for your alternator max output) close to the battery end. If that large wire gets damaged by fraying or an accident and it shorts to the body, it could start a fire very easily.

The ONLY way this happens, is that your ignition system is still getting power from somewhere after the switch is pushed. Now assuming that you DO have the kill on the positive lead... with the switch pushed, obviously that power is not coming from the battery.........so that only leaves SOMETHING attached to the alternator circuit somewhere. Since none of us can see the car, you are going to have to track it down. Start chasing wires and circuits is the only answer. You say the ONLY thing on the lug of the alternator is a big wire running to battery and NOTHING else. If that is true, the "field" wiring is supplying power to the ignition. Appears you must have a Mopar alternator, so to "fix" it, you will have to break the field circuit as well when you kill it. That is why some were telling you to use a relay. The field circuit runs through the relay and battery power switches the relay on. Kill the battery, relay opens, breaks field circuit

Monte

A one wire alternator with the power cable run to the battery side of the master switch would be an easy solution.

True, but judging by the signature line of the OP, this is a fairly stock piece and not a RACE car, so doubt he wants to do that. Guess the reason for switch is battery is in trunk

Monte

Electric fans can cause weird feed backs.