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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: KillerBee]
#182982
01/08/09 06:56 PM
01/08/09 06:56 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,043
U.S.S.A.
JohnRR
I Win
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I Win
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 75,043
U.S.S.A.
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Quote:
If I remember right the ones Ehrenberg sells do not have a retainer to keep the push rod in place.
Some were concerned that it is possible for the push rod to fall out of the master cylinder if the brake pedal is bumped or pulled back too far, (this means no brakes) I guess it actually has happend to some people.
Ehrenberg's suggested fix was to silicone the push rod into the master cylinder.
when i bought the ebooger master he had the retainer available ???
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: JohnRR]
#182983
01/08/09 07:09 PM
01/08/09 07:09 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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All I can add is on my 65 dart(73 discs/10"drums) w alum 1&1/8 MC the brakes are inadequate(pedal too hard & not enough braking) but I threw it together cause I needed some transportation & I didn't use an adapter for the MC & the pedal is way too high so maybe that's messing up my leverage here. I just bought the car back  so I am going to add a spacer & "Dogfather" on here was kind enough to sell me a set of semimetallic pads that I will try  .
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: RapidRobert]
#182984
01/08/09 11:19 PM
01/08/09 11:19 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
Chris2581
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
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I bought a "Eherenberg" master cylinder and the adapter from Rick a few years ago.Quality product and it will work on your application.I put aftermarket discs on the front of my Demon and all I did was swap the master cylinder and the front brakes and it all bolted up nice and easy.
Someone said you needed a additional prop valve,I used the one in my car,and never added the adjustable one.It stops fine,even at 116 Mph at the track.
I'll also bet good money that R.E. never said to use silicone to hold the pushrod in the master cylinder.Using silicone spray to get the rubber retainer seated fully,that I would believe.
Nautilus Racing-
We use Superformance gaskets and Turbo Action converters/products.
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: BDW]
#182986
01/09/09 12:26 AM
01/09/09 12:26 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,497
N.E. Ohio
KillerBee
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,497
N.E. Ohio
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Quote:
Quote:
I'll also bet good money that R.E. never said to use silicone to hold the pushrod in the master cylinder.Using silicone spray to get the rubber retainer seated fully,that I would believe.
you'd lose
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...rue#Post4233694
Well I got my response from Rick, and I'm posting that email here for you guys to read.
This is what Rick wrote in his email:
Do it the modern way: RTV.
Install m/cyl. Fill recess w/RTV. Slip pushrod, attached to pedal, into
the
goo, bottomed. Use bungee cord or weight, to maintian light / moderate
pressure. Don't touch for 24 hours.
Done.
Rick
Thank you CNXT!
I knew I read that here before.
Since you're also in Florida feel free to go pick up Chris2421's "good money" bet.
The pushrod has fallen out of a number of cars
https://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/show...p;vc=1&nt=2
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: KillerBee]
#182987
01/09/09 09:03 AM
01/09/09 09:03 AM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
Chris2581
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,531
Jacksonville, FL
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Surpised the hell outta me.I for one would NEVER do that.Come on down for your winnings.
Nautilus Racing-
We use Superformance gaskets and Turbo Action converters/products.
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: 4speeds4me]
#182991
01/09/09 04:39 PM
01/09/09 04:39 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,041
Lincoln Nebraska
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The problem(as stated by several purchasers) was that some of his MC's had no recess inside the piston on the back side for that $1.00 neoprene retainer to lock into. In other words the piston in the back was for a power brake setup rather than a manual brake one. this summer I am going to(on the bench  ) use some RTV & let it set up & see whats up with this. It does sound hokey(& unsafe  ) but I've always(& still do) greatly respected Ebergs knowhow so I am going to cut to the chase & see for myself 
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: Chris2581]
#182992
01/09/09 05:16 PM
01/09/09 05:16 PM
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,733
Florida
BDW
master
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master
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 4,733
Florida
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Quote:
Surpised the hell outta me.I for one would NEVER do that.Come on down for your winnings.
Well let me know what you consider "good money" gas is going back up, so it might not be worth the drive. 
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: CHRGR69]
#182994
01/10/09 09:57 AM
01/10/09 09:57 AM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,344
Cincinnati, OH
6T6Cuda
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,344
Cincinnati, OH
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Quote:
Quote:
I bought one...works but leaks around the caps. Ruined the paint on the inner fenders.
I told Rick about the caps prior to installing and he sent me 2 different and better quality caps. The ones that come with the M/C don't seat properly. 
I noticed that too...
The think leaks like a sieve, I did not realize it was comming out of the caps.
Did you just contact him about the caps? - I bought 3 sets from him and am getting ready to use one on my freshly painted 5 year project and do not want any issues...
Does anyone have the contact for Rick? - I am sure I had it somewhere but I can not find it.
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: 6T6Cuda]
#182995
01/10/09 10:47 AM
01/10/09 10:47 AM
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Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 824
NH
72challorange
He's Game
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He's Game
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 824
NH
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Mine still weeps, been fighting it since the beginning. Trying all sorts of caps and they all seem to distort and leak. I wish He would have just shipped them with the right caps in the first place. My paint was ruined as well. Tom 
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: CHRGR69]
#182997
01/10/09 02:33 PM
01/10/09 02:33 PM
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,384
Madison Wi
NTOLERANCE
master
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master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 4,384
Madison Wi
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IF you are building a brake system with all new parts, consider going to dot 5 fluid. It will not eat paint. Dot 3 and Dot 5 really arent compatabile, and seals can get "saturated" with dot 3. Should dot 5 be introduced to a dot 3 saturated system, leaks and failures may occur. The equipment I work on uses exclusively Dot 5. Some other techs have put Dot 3 in by mistake. Sometimes thees problem other times, there isnt. Usually I find problem show up from cross contamination a good deal of time later. Flushing a Dot 3 system with alcohol (not the drinkable kind) can produce a clean enough system to run Dot 5. I am in going to run Dot 5 in my 65. All my brake stuff is new. Also going to run it in my hydraulic clutch setup. Doc.
I used to care but....... things have changed
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Re: Richard Ehrenberg Master Cylinder
[Re: NTOLERANCE]
#182998
01/10/09 02:53 PM
01/10/09 02:53 PM
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,344
Cincinnati, OH
6T6Cuda
top fuel
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top fuel
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,344
Cincinnati, OH
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Quote:
IF you are building a brake system with all new parts, consider going to dot 5 fluid. It will not eat paint.
Dot 3 and Dot 5 really arent compatabile, and seals can get "saturated" with dot 3. Should dot 5 be introduced to a dot 3 saturated system, leaks and failures may occur.
The equipment I work on uses exclusively Dot 5. Some other techs have put Dot 3 in by mistake. Sometimes thees problem other times, there isnt. Usually I find problem show up from cross contamination a good deal of time later.
Flushing a Dot 3 system with alcohol (not the drinkable kind) can produce a clean enough system to run Dot 5.
I am in going to run Dot 5 in my 65. All my brake stuff is new.
Also going to run it in my hydraulic clutch setup.
Doc.
Ya, that is what I am going to do... but the price of DOT 5 is CRAZY - like $1 an oz (the best price is at autozone of all places).
I have flushed everything out and most of the system is new (front rear lines, M/C, etc) the calipers and wheel cyls are old, but I flushed them with Isopropal & rehoned them and lubed the seals in DOT5. I also blew air through all the old stuff, put Iso in and blew it out as well.
Now on the other car I put Rick's M/C on it does sweat all over the place; I could not figure out where, I guess it is the caps. Need to keep an eye on that.
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