Currently I'm in the bottom hole which has it 3* down and have been told to move it up one hole...60' is always in the 1.14-1.15 range on a 275 drag radial @ 3300#...I have a wheel stand issue every now & then and my concern with this change is it will hit the tires harder after moving the instant center up making wheel stands more of a issue...Ultimate goal is better 60' times which equate to better ET...Opinions are needed as I'm not a chassis guy...Thanks Gary !!

You can try it 1 hole up.. but I would loosen the shock extension
some otherwise it will wheel stand harder... but normally the
lower the hole it softens the hit BUT holds the hit longer

What does the driveshaft speed show on those occasions when it wheelies? I assume wheelspeed it a bit slower when it does this.

My guess is their theory of moving the bar up one hole will "hit" the tire a bit harder, which in theory will give you more wheelspeed and keep the front end from wanting to rise. The lower front point also applies more leverage to lift the front end, especially when it is inclined to go that way. If you have good rear shocks, which I believe you do then I do not see why it is a bad suggestion. As long as you can control the extension rate enough to keep from killing the tire it should be a step in the correct direction, depending on how far up that next hole is.

One hole up will hit the tire harder but it won't have as much leverage.

Your shocks are going to do most of the work.

Remember guys..........this is a DRAG RADIAL car, so the wheelspeed issue is not really an issue. In the first pic, it has the tire hammered pretty well, so I can't say it needs to hit the tire harder. On a radial car, 60fts and wheelies are all about power management and weight bias. Depending on where the car is now, the harder you get after it to make it 60ft, the more weight you will need on the nose.

Another thing to try, is get after the car really hard early and then knock it in the head. All the timing out at the drop of the button tends to make the car lazy(weak 60fts) and also gives it more of a tendency to wheelstand as the power rolls on. As an example in Chad's car, with a 738 and a .028 jet in our first fogger. We leave at 100% on the spray, with ZERO timing pulled out. Then at .20 out it has 16* out and at .35 it has 26* out and at .8 the timing is actually at negative 2*. So I let it run at the converter off the brake, accelerate the motor, "set" the tire and suspension and THEN knock the power back. Works for us. Goes 1.0s pretty much anywhere on a decent track and on GOOD tracks has been 1.03. To 60ft and run to 330 that hard(2.76) and keep the nose on the ground, we have to be nearly 57% on the nose.

Also, you need to take some video of the tire. You want it to "bulge" the tire, like it is in the top photo and HOLD it there. Obviously it is hitting the tire hard enough now, but you need to make adjustments to hit it and keep it there. Video is your friend, because nobody can watch the car and tell you if it does that

Monte

I forget about the radial deal. I also agree with the faster you go the more weight you will want on the front. Assume it is getting the front end up because it is sticking the tire, but then with a radial you kind of have to or you get spin for sure.

I will defer to the expert here. I know nothing...And yes Video is your friend here for sure.

I was thinking wt. On the front as well. I added 25 pounds to the Valiant nose and it helped but will still drag the bumper every now and then. 10 more pounds would be nice on sticky tracks

Thanks guys...Some good ideas Monte...We know we're off on percentages and working on it...Power wheelie is my main issue as the 330' stuff is getting old...We already drop the % in the progressive around .7 then turn it back on and it helps !!

There's about 5 of us hanging out in the top 5 of the limited class and I'm just trying to break away from the pack,Lol.

Here's a rear tire go pro if I can figure out how to post it !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=drsaP98bgo4

This video show's the controller dropping the front !1

We already use from 40# to 75# extra on the front !!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suvmHClMJv0

If you have to hang 100lbs on the nose doesn't matter........the percentage just has to be what it has to be. In lieu of adding dead weight, move some stuff forward. Battery, bottles, fire bottle, fuel cell, whatever. The Buick currently has NOTHING and I mean nothing in the trunk. Fuel cell and pump are in the nose. Battery right behind firewall, firebottle under drivers seat. Even the cutoff switch is in drivers area and has cable running to rear. Only thing behind the shocks is the overflow bottle and sheetmetal. Overflow is there for safety.

Admittedly, we have worked HARD to get to this point. The car with no weight, for RvW rules will go 2600lbs ready to rock at 56.5% on nose. We have to weigh 2750 for ODR and with 150lbs in the middle of car, it is still 56.5% on the nose. This leaves us lots of options to move weight around if needed. We still need to get about 100 more pounds out of it somewhere though.......LOL!!!

You need to manage your power with timing instead of nitrous percentage as much as possible. You need all the nitrous on as quick as it can be for the car to run. I know many will say power is power, but I am here to tell you, the car WILL be faster with all the nitrous and no timing vs the other way

Monte

My car isn't as fast, 1.24 60 ft best, but I followed Montes advice and moved A TON of weight forward to go from 50/50 to 57.5 on the front. It made it a new car, able to come out nicely without hitting the bars so hard it unloaded the back end. Those numbers worked for my car. Yours will be different, most likely. But you can see that sometimes a radical move is what it takes.