What is the best method to get the key to seat properly in the slot? I have a brand new crank and new key I am working with. Trying not to be impulsive here and do irreparable damage. Do I use a big pliers with tape on the jaws?

Also, the key seems to be a hair too wide which makes it not want to go in straight. I'm guessing that's because it's a press fit kind of thing but that makes it a little tricky to get it started.

Thanks for any input.

- Greg

If the key came with the crank you can put the key in your freezer for a while then tap it in with a rawhide or hard rubber hammer. If you bought the key separate you will need to check it's width with mic's to see if it's the correct size. If you have to use a brass drift to install it you will want to file the sides after installation to the correct size.

Thanks, I will try the freezer method first. I measured the key with my cheapo digital caliper, it's .187. The slot is a little harder to measure but it's close.

What Old Mopar Man said, freeze it overnight & if still tight you can heat the groove with a propane torch a bit. worst case deburr the edges a bit with some fine sandpaper/emery cloth. As you know go REAL conservative with that as material cannot be put back on & you want some interference. I think freezing will do it, cold shrinks metal more than most people think. Holler how it turns out

OK, I put it in the freezer for a while and went to put it in. I got it most of the way in, not sure how much farther it needs to go. The timing chain sprocket goes right on. At first I tapped it in with a plastic mallet then once it was in, I went to the heavy artillery, a dead blow hammer. I whacked it a bunch of times and it ain't going much of anywhere.



Here's the timing sprocket. Does it need to go further on to the crank? There is a step in the crank snout which prevents it from going further back.


The one on the top is an old OE one and the bottom one is the MP one I am using.

All done. (successfully!)

Thanks as always RR.