The multimeter question was so last week (I borrowed one). What I really need to get a good double flaring tool so I can get the Challenger closer to roadworthy. Brakes are crucial you know.



1. http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html?reltype=3

2. http://www.uktools.com/product_info.php?products_id=11510

I like the concept of 2 because I dont need a vise.

However, if theres other ideas I'm all ears.

the parts store crap cant double flare its way out of a paper bag

Thanks in advance
Ken

I would get the Mastercool 71475 hydraulic flaring tool..

I have this one. It works great and can be used under the car.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/sis.html?_nkw=MA...Id=261147987012

don't know about those but my snap on set has been great for 20 years.

I have a Blue Point that is Snapon. Used it for 25 years at work.My kid bought a setup from Summit that was clearanced for like 10 bucks.Its been used quite a lot and still works great.Rocky

Maybe the copper nickle brake line can be flared easier with the cheap flaring tools.
Has anyone tried it ?

I still have my Dads old Kar set and a set of Imperial that my brother got in a bunch of stuff he bought at auction. I have no problem double flaring brake lines with either set.

To answer your question, I would pick the Eastwood tool, it looks like a nicely made tool.
It also has around the same cost as the English one.

If you are building a system from scratch, the 90/10 copper/nickel tubing is what you want. It's very corrosion resistant and is much easier to work. You'll pay a bit more, but it's worth the extra cost. Volvo, for one, uses it on all their cars.

To whoever is talking about doing flaring under the car, I'm glad you want to do that, because I sure don't. If it gets to that, the whole bunch is coming out and being replaced.

There are many low cost flaring tools that work okay, especially once you get practiced up. But for a beginner, it's pretty easy to mess up a double flare. I've watched a pro do it.

R.

I think the Eastwood looks nice also... but have to admit I use a medium grade parts store version with good results. (AZ OEM brand, one step up from the cheapest). Works fine on mild steel and probably would work fine on CU-NI. I would not even attempt stainless with it. When I cut my rear line for a prop valve, I did use it under the car as well.

I had to practice a little on scrap tube. After that not a single leaker. My use is occasional and light so it will last a good while.

I have Eastwood tool and it works great very simple to use!! I tried parts store loaners tools and had ok results after many tries. I have flared steel, stainless steel and Nickel copper all turned out great, first time. I like the new nickel copper line very easy to work with.

Kevin

Have you double flared stainless?