I have had good luck with Bilsteins in general, but on mine I run a specially valved one that feels great with a 300lb bar. I had to make special bushings to adapt it for this application but it was worthwhile.

I have Bilstien's on my Chevy truck and they do work great, but I'm not sure that the off the shelf ones would work with 1.14 bars in a A body. Sounds like you modified yours to work, I want to get something that I can adjust externally for the car and just bolt on.

The 2015 Challenger R/T the wife and I have has Bilsteins as part of the Super Track Pack. I LOVE how the car feels with them.

I have the 1.14 bars in an a body and ran the Bilsteins and they were ok, then I installed the Hotchkis/Fox adjustable and they were a lot better, they take the harshness out of the heavily spring in a light car, much smoother. Having said that I would say if you go with the Bilsteins you will not be disappointed they are a decent shock for sure.

Yea I think i'm going to go with the Fox shocks, plus if I need to I could always rip apart the Fox shocks and tweak them.
I won't be getting the car out this week...looks like we might get snow in the next few days.

In 2005 I added an 1 1/8" front and 7/8" rear anti sway bar set from Addco. Body roll was greatly diminished, but since then the car has always had some oversteer as I pushed it. It would also do something sorta hard to describe: In faster turns whether under throttle, brake or coasting, the rear would feel as if it were ready to step out, come back and then step out again. This is with zero additional steering input. I am wondering if this were a matter of the small torsion bars reacting to irregular road surfaces; the outside wheel/suspension bottoming against the bumpstops then bouncing up off of them.
With bigger 1.15 bars and Bilstein shocks on the way, I hope to report an improvement.

Are you running biased leaf springs still? I had a problem similar to yours with a rear sway bar until I switched to same rate/arch springs on each side.

The leafs are the Mopar Performance XHD. They did have an extra 1/2 leaf on the one spring pack but I removed it when I installed the springs.

The Viking dbl-adjust shocks are probably the best bet... fully adjustable... lower cost that the QA1 of same/similar design. In fact, the Vikings are made by the original pre-owners of QA1.. there was a recent split in personnell and the President of QA1 founded Viking. Viking only makes dbl-adj shocks and thereby keeops the cost down. Viking also has some slight different design thsatis patented, per my discuissikn with the curent Pres of Viking at a recent trade show.

I think you make a good point, the Vikings are double adjustable which could really help tune the front of the car. The other advantage I see is I could change torsion bar sizes and keep the same shock, I’m going to start with 1.14s on this car but if they are too stiff I’ll drop to 1.06s. What was the price point on them?

I think the Vikings dbl adj are ~$160 US each.

Don't be afraid of the 1.14 tbs for your BCuda... John Sandberg runs them on his original owner 67 BCuda fb and they are great for the stret, and improves handling overall. stiffer leafs, an better shocks are needed to help balance the package.

I'm not to worried about the spring rate, the car is a 68 Plymouth Valiant with a all iron 340, other than the intake. I want this car to be a good all round driver not a full blown race car.
The biggest problem I'm having is what to do with wheels and tires, I would really love to stick to 15" steel wheels and some 225/50 and 275/50 tires but I can't find anything that would work in those sizes.
If I do have to move up to lager rims I will most likely go to the 18" FR500s that Bergman sells with 255 tires on all 4 corners.

Keep the front and rears the same size for improved handling, that has been recommended by a lot of people on here for most cars including street cars. Tim

I guess I had to personally experience this to know for sure.
I just finished the installation of a pair of 1.15 T bars from Bergman Auto Craft along with a set of Bilstein RCD shocks. The ride is great, NOT at all harsh. Guys like Mopar Mitch and several others wrote that big T bars are fine for the street and I now see their point. I always went by the guidelines I read in the Mopar Chassis books that listed .96 bars for [/b]Improved street handling[b], 1.0 bars for [/b]Street/Autocross/Road course[b] and anything bigger being for dedicated track cars.

You've made good choices.. Enjoy the ride!

""I just finished the installation of a pair of 1.15 T bars from Bergman Auto Craft along with a set of Bilstein RCD shocks. The ride is great, NOT at all harsh.""

Can you tell us what size tires you are using all around and what car is this on?

Thanks for your feedback!

1.18's will be in the Dart by the end of next week.

The car is a 1970 Charger. 440/493, 727 and an 8 3/4 axle. 4 wheel disc brakes, welded in frame connectors and torque boxes, welded K member with gussets at steering box mounts. Firm Feel Stage 3 steering chuck with Fast Ratio Idler and Pitman.
As far as wheels and tires, I run a staggered size to fit the biggest tires in the car that I could without interference.
Fronts are 18x9 wheels 4.75 BS. 275/40/18 Nitto 555. Rear are 18x10s with 4.75 BS on a 66 B body axle (Narrower than a 68-70 housing by 3/8" per side) Rear tires are 295/45/18 Nitto 555.
The tires are 12 years old and should be replaced. I will go with a 200 TW tire next time since I'd rather wear them out rather than replace them due to age!

Bad to the bone Charger!

Not at all harsh with 1.15" torsion bars and 40/45 series tires is mind boggling to me. It makes me wonder what my sb challenger would feel like with the same 1.15" bars and Hotchkis/Fox shocks with 60 series tires!
Thanks for the update!!