I suppose that I could just search for images but I'm interested in advice on how to avoid PCV pullover and oil burning for the 70 Charger. As previously mentioned in this forum, I'm looking to autocross and road race the car, but the majority of the time will be spent on the street. Still, hard turns and sweeping curves tend to move the oil around and I'd rather not have it go where it isn't needed.
I have a windage tray in a 6 quart Hemi pan. oil slinger and the MP valve covers are baffled. I see that some have made custom stove pipes connecting the left and right sides together, sometimes with twin breathers at the front. I don't want to be in a long curve like turn 2 or 8 at Willow Springs and have the engine burn oil because the LH head and valve cover are bathing in oil. Currently the valve covers are sealing well. I've seen cases where the PCV sucks oil either in vapor form or actual liquid and it is an instant smoke show. I surely want to avoid that.

An easy first step is put the PCV pickup on the right side VC... the crank throws oil to the left. Depending on how hard you push it, more may be needed but right side PCV is a start.

I'll post a picture of the setup on the Valiant tomorrow. I'm on my tablet right now and the pix are on my computer. You definitely want PCV on the street, but make it easy to take off for track days. The Valiant has no PCV and when I took off the valve covers recently, they were full of condensation. I'm looking into putting PCV on it.

Found this pic in my email.

As far as baffling in the VC's, they need to be AS good as factory at a bare minimum. Then I would run an air/oil separator in the PCV line.

Perfect timing for this thread. I'm in the same boat and have been looking for threads that offer guidance on this topic.

Do any valve covers come with baffling out of the box? What does the baffling need to look like/how do you need to setup the baffles to control the oil?

Digging up all the pics I have from when I did this on my BB. My 440 Source covers had NO baffle provisions so I made galvanized sheet metal full length baffles and drilled 2 holes with bolts and silicone to seal them. Made 3/8" tall tube stand-offs between sheet metal and VC's to set there distance. Problem solved on baffling, your results may vary depending on what you try.



You can see it but the PCV goes through an oil separator mounted on firewall and then to carb. The breathers Tee then go under intake to the breather filter tank at rear of inner fender.

Have you had the Valiant to the track yet? That remote breather setup is the last iteration on a long running breather project. Tim tried a number of different breather setups and they all had issues of some sort.

I think the remote setup in the picture should solve the problems but it was fairly expensive. Also, there is no PCV on the motor. Shouldn't be a problem for a track car but a street car can get a little sludgy if it is driven around town without PCV.

I have not gotten it to the track yet. Other pressing non-car issues came up that have been requiring my attention. I do plan to get it out on the track, though.

I plan to leave the existing setup in place. For now, I removed the oil caps from the valve covers and replaced them with MP breathers. I'll see if that cures the sludge/condensation issues during street driving. If that takes care of it, then the plan is to use the two extra breathers on the street and put the oil caps back on for track duty. I also have to remember to drain the catch can every time I drive it.

mine: 1 1/4" pipe

The MP cast aluminum valve covers have a simple baffle... but too far away from the VC top to be fully effective. Fix, recommended by Rick E, is to adjust the baffle with a ball peen hammer to make it tighter to the top. I did this mod with PCV and it works/stays clean with street use. Limited track time however (I'll report back after this weekend HSAX training runs!).

I will need to address this too. One of the things I have been contemplating is using the seperators like what are made and used on the genIII Hemi cars. Moroso and others make them. Seems that the oe systems don't seperate out the oil vapors enough on them and thats what I've been investigating. I like the full length baffles in the vc's too.

I've been using the oil vapor seperator off my old SRT 8 challenger for a few years on the old 440 and it works pretty well in conjunction with the stock PCV valve and valve cover baffle I added to my aluminum covers. I also plan to use it with the new hemi that is going in.

Is the right side driver or passenger side?

What about an oil catch can? I was thinking about running a breather on the passenger (or driver, depending on above question) vc, and a pvc on the opposite vc. The breather would vent to atmosphere, while the pvc valve would go to the catch can. The other opening of the catch can would go to the carb (or is it intake?). Valve covers would have full length baffling.

This would go on my 440 stroker (70 Cuda) that I am hoping to autocross, and occasionally road race, but mostly drive on the street.

Is this overkill? Would it even work?

Technically, the RIGHT side is described as being behind the car looking forward. I have seen many examples of people that are UN informed about this, which is why referring to driver/passenger side must be comfortable to them.

I know the difference but I always refer to driver/passenger because it leaves no misunderstanding. Someone could either be confused about L/R or could assume I am. If I state driver/passenger side then there is no possible misunderstanding either way.

-Michael

I've heard some refer to the right as the driver side because that's on the right When standing at the front of the car looking back, as you would if you were working on your car. Thus why I asked passenger or driver side.

My other question still stands if anyone has an opinion or experience.

Sorry if the following appears rude or blunt, but the people you speak of are wrong. Perspective is from drivers seat or from rear of car looking forward. Factory service manuals are written this way as well.

From many years of laps:

Use a pcv oil separator - the mustang aftermarket one works wonderful. Let the whining begin about it's a ford part.

The valve covers need to breath-I ran a catch tank [with a breather filter on top] to the stock breather cap for the valve covers. On tight motors this will suffice. On project blacknblue the 440 was loose so the oil filler was used as the second breather outlet. It worked well only venting one side. The dip stick tube should also have a hose running to a small breather tank. I never had to run a race type set up to vent the valve covers, then again the motors were never spun over 6000 rpm.

No worries about being blunt or rude. I agree - Never said otherwise. I just wanted clarification on whoever referred to the right said to make sure I was on the same page.

I reread the beginning of the thread and something finally clicked. I dont know why I asked the question about the catch can.

Thanks for the pointer Tom Quad.