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500" low deck crank #1806571
04/18/15 11:34 PM
04/18/15 11:34 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 220
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Gearbox Offline OP
enthusiast
Gearbox  Offline OP
enthusiast
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 220
Very interested in hearing recommendations for a crank in a stock block 400 B1 build.800hp range.Is it better to use the 400 or 440 mains?
Always appreciate your feedback.

Re: 500" low deck crank [Re: Gearbox] #1806797
04/19/15 11:24 AM
04/19/15 11:24 AM
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 714
Central TEXAS!!!!
sr4440 Offline
super stock
sr4440  Offline
super stock

Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 714
Central TEXAS!!!!
I have a B1 512 and I use a Molnar 4.25 stroke crankshaft. I would run the 400 mains for 2 reasons. 1. strength of the block and 2. bearing speed, no need to have a higher bearing speed then necessary.



Joe


Without Data, you’re just another guy with an opinion.
Re: 500" low deck crank [Re: sr4440] #1806827
04/19/15 12:29 PM
04/19/15 12:29 PM
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 220
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Gearbox Offline OP
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Gearbox  Offline OP
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 220
Thanks Joe,
I read different opinions, the larger 440 main size may provide larger overlap? Increasing the strength of the actual crank? Did you run aftermarket mains, I've read different opinions on whether a girdle like the BCR type are actually necessary or just use good aftermarket main caps only? I have a 230 block and a BCR kit, time to decide on the actual crank specs and if I will pay for the girdle installation.

Re: 500" low deck crank [Re: Gearbox] #1806958
04/19/15 03:16 PM
04/19/15 03:16 PM
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,190
Bend,OR USA
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Cab_Burge Offline
I Win
Cab_Burge  Offline
I Win
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 43,190
Bend,OR USA
I think the rod journal overlap is not a valid concern with any decent forged steel crankshaft, especially with many racers using 4 3/4 inch storke on many high end all out race Mopar engine builds these days workI have built a bunch of 400 block strokers motors from mild to wild, with no girdles yet shruggy I do swapped the main caps out for the old(Milidon sells the now) Mopar brand Ductile iron and ARP main studs. I do use the Federal Mogul narrow full groove main bearins, part # 4094M up My old pump gas 518 400 stroker made 775 HP on Oregon pump swill with the ductile iron main caps and 4094M main bearings, I raced the heck out of it shifting it at or above 7000 RPM for many passes, drove it on the street for a couple of hundred miles also shruggy If you want to make a motor that will live at 900 + HP buy a race block up twocents


Mr.Cab Racing and winning with Mopars since 1964. (Old F--t, Huh)
Re: 500" low deck crank [Re: Cab_Burge] #1806975
04/19/15 03:37 PM
04/19/15 03:37 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,875
Weddington, N.C.
Streetwize Offline
master
Streetwize  Offline
master

Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,875
Weddington, N.C.
Either main size will work well with a 4.25" Stroke. Personally I'd rather have the strength in the caps and main webs and use the smaller but still graciously adequate 400 main journals...but opinions vary.

With a 2.200" rod journal and a .990 pin (not to mention the minor reduction of the counterweight diameter itself to clear the webs) you're reducing a lot of crank mass compared to the heavy (and less precisely balanced) OEM set-up.


WIZE

World's Quickest Diahatsu Rocky (??) 414" Stroker Small block Mopar Powered. 10.84 @ 123...and gettin' quicker!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-mWzLma3YGI

In Car:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjXcf95e6v0






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