I need some wiring advice on my 69 Bee. I've done all of the MAD electric upgrades on my car already.

I finally decided to put in my Benz fan and controller this spring. I knew the stock style alternator wouldn't keep up with the new demands of the fan, so I changed it out for a 12si. When I wired the 12si, I ran the main wire directly to the starter relay post. I then looped the red wire from the alternator plug into the main wire. I ran the white wire from the alternator plug to a small light, and then ran that wire into another wire that is hot when the key is in the "on" position. I unhooked the balast resistor and the firewall mounted regulator and taped up the wires out of the way.

The issue is that I need a wire that is hot when the key is in the "on" position and in the "start" position. I need this wire to power up my ignition and my computer. I've tested every wire I could find under the hood and at the ignition switch, but none of them seem to have power in both "on" and "start".

Can I split two wires off of the ignition and computer into a wire that is hot in the on position and the other wire to one that is hot in the start position?

Any advice here would really help me out.

Correct, as you know (OE) the ign1 (run) and ign2 (crank) are & have to be seperate so the ign coil recieves reduced voltage thru the ballast in "run". If I'm readin this right that you have already bypassed the ballast resistor & are running full 12V all the time/everywhere then just T into the brown wire that was on the upstream end of the ballast as it'll be hot in "start" and the blue wire ign1 (run) circuit goes right to it as there is no longer a ballast. You're run/crank circuits are already tied together so just T into it/them at an appropriate place & you're set. If I missed somethin/ain't grasping what you are asking just holler back & we'll continue on. EDIT connect the wires that were on the ballast resistor together & T into them & you will have fire in run and in crank.

Thanks for helping me out! I'll try that this afternoon and report back.

Thanks,
Tim

Easiest way is to jumper the run and start wires together at the switch or where they enter the engine compartment. This is assuming the ballast resistor is long gone.

I just went outside tried running a wire between the two ballast connectors and tapped into that with the computer and ignition. The car started right up and ran fine. However, I had run the white wire off of the alternator into that same wire at an earlier point, so I couldn't kill the car, lol. I cut the alternator wire off and started thinking about it more. Based on Lefty's post, I went ahead and just hooked up the ballast resistor. Then I ran the computer and ignition into the old wire that went into the external regulator because it was now a "switched" ignition. Started up and shut down great.

This is the confusing part for me though. I didn't have the alternator harness white wire hooked into anything and the car was charging. The white wire ran into a small light light, and it was lit up. Should I just leave the white wire going into the small light and nothing else? Based on the diagrams I have seen, the white wire from the alternator harness should run into a light to make the alternator charge and then run into a switched ignition source.

I ain't up on how GM alts are wired/work but if it starts when you want it to/shuts down when you turn the key off/charges adequately/no draw with key off then I'd say you are good. Just me I'd keep the red idiot light operational as a reminder of what I have in there!