Re: Seam sealer? What to use for vent ports in e-body cowl?
[Re: ahy]
#1795998
04/04/15 02:23 PM
04/04/15 02:23 PM
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,521
Tacoma, Washington USA
Adam71Charger
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Joined: Jun 2013
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Tacoma, Washington USA
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Quote:
Poly-urethane caulk from the home improvement store works well as seam sealer. I lay it down then use a stiff brush, with a little thinner if needed, to smooth it out.
I went this route too. I used a roof flashing sealant formulated to be permanently flexible and can bond to multiple substrates. I used it on every floor seam of my car and some sealing areas under the quarter windows. I was skeptical at first but this stuff bonds very well and is very flexible and durable. Glad I used it. Cant remember if I painted it or not. Takes awhile to cure, about 7 days. I used it with a caulking gun, didnt thin it at all.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-S3...75273/203163733
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Re: Seam sealer? What to use for vent ports in e-body cowl?
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#1796000
04/04/15 05:06 PM
04/04/15 05:06 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,383
Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,383
Omaha Ne
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Re: Seam sealer? What to use for vent ports in e-body cowl?
[Re: TJP]
#1796001
04/04/15 06:04 PM
04/04/15 06:04 PM
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
DaytonaTurbo
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Posts: 21,318
Manitoba, Canada
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Quote:
I have seen more than one instance of substitute sealers failing after 5-10 years.
  
Like the factory mopar crap that crumbles to pieces on our old cars? 
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Re: Seam sealer? What to use for vent ports in e-body cowl?
[Re: DaytonaTurbo]
#1796002
04/04/15 10:53 PM
04/04/15 10:53 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 15,383
Omaha Ne
TJP
I Live Here
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I Live Here
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Posts: 15,383
Omaha Ne
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Quote:
Quote:
I have seen more than one instance of substitute sealers failing after 5-10 years.
Like the factory mopar crap that crumbles to pieces on our old cars?
back in the day the engineering and thought was 10 years was adequate. Fast forward 40 or so years and the 60 to 70's technology did its job that it was intended to do. We now have new technology available and skimping on body sealant is not something I would advise  
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Re: Seam sealer? What to use for vent ports in e-body cowl?
[Re: TJP]
#1796003
04/04/15 11:37 PM
04/04/15 11:37 PM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
ahy
master
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master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 7,664
IN
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Quote:
I recommend staying with sealers intended for auto body applications. 10 to 20 years down the road they will still be in place doing their intended job. I have seen more than one instance of substitute sealers failing after 5-10 years.
FWIW I used to use 3M body seam sealer in the quart cans. The formula changed some years ago and it started shrinking and cracking after a few weeks or months. Also once tried "bondo" brand seam sealer in the caulking tube. It would shrink and crack in a few hours.
The polyurethane type sealers seem to hold up very well... both the dedicated auto brands from Eastwood or a body supply hose or the home improvement store stuff.
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Re: Seam sealer? What to use for vent ports in e-body cowl?
[Re: ahy]
#1796004
04/05/15 06:38 PM
04/05/15 06:38 PM
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Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,521
Tacoma, Washington USA
Adam71Charger
pro stock
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pro stock
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 1,521
Tacoma, Washington USA
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Quote:
Quote:
I recommend staying with sealers intended for auto body applications. 10 to 20 years down the road they will still be in place doing their intended job. I have seen more than one instance of substitute sealers failing after 5-10 years.
FWIW I used to use 3M body seam sealer in the quart cans. The formula changed some years ago and it started shrinking and cracking after a few weeks or months. Also once tried "bondo" brand seam sealer in the caulking tube. It would shrink and crack in a few hours.
The polyurethane type sealers seem to hold up very well... both the dedicated auto brands from Eastwood or a body supply hose or the home improvement store stuff.
read a lot about people having trouble with the 3m, but they do have tons of different seam sealers now they probably have some great stuff.
When I spoke to the LORD FUSOR tech guy, the way he described the product was the way it behaves during and after curing, and the bonding quality to certain substrates. Thats how I found what I wanted, I needed something that could hold up against drastic temperature changes, was waterproof, bonded well to bare metal and epoxy, and remained flexible during expansion and contraction. PL30 had the characteristics I wanted and so I gave it a shot (at $5 a tube) and it worked great. Stuck like cement but remained slexible like gumby. Have had no issues at all with it.
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