U-joints whats better grease-less or grease-able? I would think with grease fitting is better but the parts house sells the non grease-able as the premium

Greasable have a hollow channel inside as a path for the grease. When compared directly to a similar sized non-greasable joint, they are weaker.

It's up to you to determine if it'll live or not in your application. I'd say for most street brawlers, you can't hook enough to really work over an appropriately sized u-joint, greasable or not.

Good point hollow is weaker no doubt , doing replacements on a 2500 4WD axle joints, that said the only broken joints I have ever seen are the ones that were already worn out due to lack of maintenance ie grease.

The greaseable one with the fitting in the end of the cap is better than in the body.spend the extra money on a major brand.

As said hollow is weaker than solid but hollow works for most apps but 4wd etc I'd get a neapco or precision solid (probably others but those come to mind) & I'm wondering if there would be no issue with drilling/tapping the caps of a solid one for zerks or R&R it after so many months & pack the ends by hand. #1 problem with ujoints is move the front yoke back & forth in both planes & the rear ujoint in 1 plane after the ujoint install & it MUST be smooth & if it ain't then whack the ears (The 2 flat "connector" pieces on each end between shaft and the holes) till it is smooth (support the shaft off the ground so the ears take the whack). rare case you might need to R&R the new ujoint & repeat the install till it is smooth. I use a BFH as little as possible but just me I believe using one to drive in the caps as opposed to compressing them with a big vise is the best way

As said, the grease able kind are weaker due to the hollow body to allow the grease to flow

Lots of premium joints on the market with 'million mile warranty' that are not grease able.

I've given up on greasables. No matter how often I grease them, they wear out faster than the sealed factory ones. I've done the axle outers on my '01 3 times now and went back to sealed. The greasables last about 40,000 if I'm lucky and the original factory ones went 70,000 miles.

I'm not sure if you are supposed to do it or not, but I have been adding just a little extra grease to the needle bearings on the sealed joints before I drive them in.

Pay extra, make sure you get Spicers.

Well I bought Moog greasables and darn near fell over at the cost 65 dollars each , but they are big joints but still I have never paid more than 20-25 dollars for a U Joint

I only buy spicer ujoints anymore, tried the neapco and other brands, spicers 1350's are almost what I exclusively use. Tim

I also gave up on greaseables. I talked to a driveshaft guy and he confirmed my suspicions. The nongreasables last a lot longer.