My car is going to get media finished starting Wednesday here in the Chicago area (its warmed up!). After enough research out there, I am having them do the outer body with walnut shells, and the rest with glass beads. What I have seen what 'sand' can do, I would never want that on my car (even if it can be filled with paint later during prep).

K frame and rear end comes off today.

I am thinking it makes sense to add bracing before bolting to rotisserie, right? Or because its a unibody, it does not need?

Any general rules of thumb on where to weld the bracing if its required?

I am nervous.....(first restoration experience).

YES, you must brace before putting on a spit.

The Factory had clamps and a bar that fastened to the Windshield frame and ran back to the Top Well area. At least that was what we did at BAP. I would assume other plants did the same.

They were very stout and heavy, they stayed on till paint. The bodys were lifted by LOUDEN Cranes and transferred from Framing to the body trucks for Metal and Paint and Trim. Braces kept them from bending in the air as they were transferred.

Heavy Framing spotwelders that hung from above would have played hell on the Body integrity as well.

On my Vert we welded bracing from the firewall area to the cross member near the wheelhouse that holds the pump. Any body work after the braces were removed is easy to smooth out and not noticeable.

You can also add a brace between the front door jamb and the lock pillar. I have seen this before, again you will have to grind the welds smooth after Rotisserie removal, but no big deal.

Do one or both, your choice. Both is better. Other wise you will end up with a pretzel

The other way.. do both, can't hurt. Good luck and take a few pics.

The above photos are for reference. I wish the first one was me, but I am just a little older and heavier.


One more tip, we welded a 10 inch by 12 by 1/4 inch inch plate between the wheelhouse's, above the driveshaft hump behind the rear seat.

Can't be seen and sure did stiffen the body. Have seen that on other e-bodys, can't hurt.


Oh yeah, what color have you chosen?

Car is originally B5 blue, so going with that.

So the guys doing my car have done many chevelle (66-67) converts before, and those turned out fine, and those body's need a full frame.
But this is their first mopar convert.

So that 10x12 plate is a permanent thing? Best to put that in now, if that helps the body. My floors (praise the lord) are perfect, as is the trunk and extentions. Only funky thing on the car are the quarters.

Thanks for the pictures! I am not seeing any side to side cross bracing in your pics, I would think it would need that? I could see them doing the top of the door jams, and some x bracing side to side to help fight twist.

Wish I could see a picture of that plate installed.

The only thing my Dart needed was a brace from the door striker to the upper door hinge mount. It was a solid car to start with.

Same as my 71 cuda that has been sitting for a few years. I have used the same brackets on four different cuda rags. Just unbolt them and use them on another one.

Just a plate, you can use any dimensions that fit. No body will ever see it unless they take out the rear seat back.

You probably will not need it. We just overkilled everything. Big Hemi between the rails. Can't hurt to stiffen things up.

I have pics but they are in Ill. I won't see them till May 1.

Lots of extra welds, we put in.

I will say the car has shown no signs of stress cracking on the upper deck to quarter area. Knock on wood.

Thanks for all the tips!

I can see how you fab a plate to over the door hinge area, but how does it go over the door striker? I am sure the restoration shop can figure that out. The pictures help.

I think I will do that plate.

-bob

Here are some pictures of the door braces I built for my ragtop.

I based my design on the one's Clark Classics has in their pictures of vert's on a rotissorie. The brace is made from some scrap angle, a piece of channel, and 1' square tubing. I started with the car on tires and door gaps good. The upper rear anchor bolts up using the folding top mechanism bolt holes. The bottom rear bolts to the seat belt anchor. The front is thru bolted. The doors can stay in place with this method.

Front brace anchor

Rear anchor

Here is what the shop went with, I am fine with it.
gets media blasted tomorrow!!!!!!

That will work..

Going to have it done for Belvidere?

I hope to have it done by summer. I have not brought a car there for years. I went last year, just to drool.

-bob

The only "rule" I have is to weld in the braces while the doors still shut well and the car is sitting on the suspension.

I will take the car off your hands and that will free you up to do what ever you want this summer. LOL

MLR426