I saw these at Carlise but have been unable to find who makes them or sells them. Anybody? These where Aluminum with roller bearings .

What would be the point other than to have the latest greatest bling bling.

it allows the suspension to drop easier when launching. It may effect traction and 60' times, depending on weight transfer.

That is Correct Greg the looser the better! Just like Nascar or any racing loose is FAST. It helps transfer the weight faster to the rear wheels with less friction. Did anybody see these? Did you Greg? They looked really cool.

By how much. I have stock Moog bushings in My Valiant and am getting 1.42 sixty foots and lifting the tires. It might give you some minute fraction of a differance but what is the expense per fraction of a second. Its like spending 10 hours to get rid of 1 lb of weight. Will it make it faster probably . For the money I bet there is something else that would result in a better gain.Just my Its you'alls money you can spend it the way you want. I just prefer to get more for my investment.

on a car that yanks the tires every run, it may not help. it's the car that loses traction when the front end can't rise fast enough that may need the help. Then there's the fine line at the point the tires just barely leave the ground and add a whole lot more weight to the front end when they do...

Jason, I didn't see anything at Carlisle... I hardly left my spot the whole weekend.

You still havent convinced me that there arnt cheaper ways to acomplish the same or better results.They may look cool and they probably work.Rolex- Timex. Rolex-Timex.Thats the question.For someone that was running a class racer that fractions made a differance and they were legal It would probably be worth the expense but most of the guys here are bracket racers or street strip and those might look cool for a show car but they arnt going to get the result per dollar for a bracket racer. Warn old parts and loose some weight off the nose would likely gain as much and be alot cheaper. I'm not tring to argue with anyone here. You can spend your money the way you want. I'm just tring make a point that alot can be done on these cars with out buying that latest greatest shinny Profanity Reference Deleted. We're addicted to the latest greatest advertising.

I am not one for best shinniest new stuff, My ride is very old school. I am just trying some tricks to get the chassis to work better with the HP I have and the set up I have. Right Greg my car is OLD School, I run no MSD or anything like that. I Run a Mopar cast iron tach drive with a chrome box. See alot of Class racers have had a lot of trick stuff that if you where not in circle you would not know about what they do to get those cars to fly and I mean Stock Class cars.
I know these Aluminum roller bearing control arm bushing have been around for a little while but I can't find who sells them. I am putting all Aluminum bushings in all my rear springs and all new hangers that I bought From Greg,I am looking to do the same to the front end.

Hey Greg nice Pic in the Mag this month!!

Dont know how much they cost, but I could see much better ways to so it..Like smaller dia T bars, cranked up. But, I'm sure they will find some buyers.

It is a good trick. The stock bushings have a LOT of friction in them. It takes a lot of force to move a stock suspension thru its travel range even with the torsion bar and shock absorber removed. I'm not strong enough to do it on my car, I have to use a floor jack. So that shows you how much resistance there is just internally to the suspension travel.

Someone one the Dry Dock reposted something from a Porsche list that talked about the friction of poly bushings, and how that contributed to a rough ride when poly bushings are used. For contrast, they said that rubber bushings had NO friction. While I think it's probably true that there's no sliding or starting friction in a rubber bushing, there certainly IS some resistance to turning in a rubber bushing. In a poly bushing, there's some "sticktion" as you START to move the suspension, but it smooths right out once you get past that initial resistance. Ehrenberg said something like 20#/in spring rate in a rubber LCA bushing, which is a lot. Significantly more than the typical step between t-bar sizes, in fact. If your poly bushings are lubed right, you've effectively reduced your spring rate by a size...

Now, on a drag car, I can see how you might achieve the same thing by tightening your suspension bushings with no load on the suspension, so they're pre-loaded when you set the car down. We all know that this kills bushings ASAP, though. A greased poly (or delrin, nylon, teflon, del-a-lum, etc) bushing would work nearly as well as a roller bearing, and a lot better than a rubber bushing, especially in the moments immediately after the front end started to rise. For steady-state cruising, rubber bushings are probably the way to fly. This from a guy with no rubber on the car that isn't holding glass in place...

Clair

Someone posted a website about them on here a few years ago.

Very spendy as I recall!

I don't know about the roller bushings. Never saw them.
The factory bushings are friction-less. The ruber is a frictionless spring. The rubber is twisted as the suspension travels,and again, acts as a frictionless spring (or torsion member). That is why it is important on mopars to set the ride height before securing the lca's and uca's.

If the ride ht is set to factory limits, then as the car rises, they would resist the motion. The good side is, as the car corners on a turn, they also resist this motion. By adding a spring rate as the bushings are twisted.

You could do better to set the ride ht real high, then as the car sits at the line, the rubber bushigs are helping you to push up the front. The down side is, when the car is at rest, that the bushings will have a lot of pre twist in them. This will cause them to fail prematurely.

Don't even think about talking about poly.

There was a Vendor by Jerry Steins table that had them at Carlisle back in July. He had about a dozen or so on his table. I looked at them quick my 8 year old wanted to go into one of the toy tents so I got distracted and been looking to find who made them and where I can get them. They had an Aluminum housing with bearings where the rubber would go then the center was Aluminum with a brass sleve where the bolt went. I thought they where really neat and would work great on a stock front end.

Would there be any benefit on an autocross car? IE: NO deflection...

That would be my interest in them, but it's really a diminishing return if you're not talking about a tube chassis car (or at least caged). At some point, you can quit worrying about suspension flex because the chassis is flexing more... As it is, I'm going to deal with the poly bushings I've got until it becomes obvious they're a problem for me. The rollers are still cool, though.

Clair

In spite of numerous opinions to the contrary, I don't see how standard roller bearings can work correctly on the UCA in a Mopar front end. On the LCA a roller bearing would be fine.

On GM cars (to the best of my knowledge) they have a shaft that the UCA pivots on and the camber and caster are adjusted by shimming the shaft. With this method the bushing or bearing shaft centerlines in the control arms are always parallel and concentric so a standard roller bearing would work fine.

On a Mopar however, the camber and more importantly caster are adjusted by rotating the front and rear cam bolts which moves the front or rear of the control arm relative to each other. This inherantly misaligns the bushing or bearing centerlines in the control arm such that they are almost certainly not concentric or parallel. A rubber or poly bushing can flex to adjust for this misalignment but a rigid roller bearing cannot. This condition puts the roller bearing into a "bind" situation.

What is needed in this application instead of a roller bearing is a spherical rod end type bearing (i.e.: Heim joint). I've not seen any spherical UCA bushing replacements offered for sale but I think it would be very possible to fabricate them. If anyone knows of someone who makes them, please let me know.