T/A Challanger, opinions please
#1765164
02/28/15 01:36 PM
02/28/15 01:36 PM
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Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 235
Oregon
Dr Dave
OP
enthusiast
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OP
enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 235
Oregon
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I have a very nice T/A that I'm not sure what to do with. It has had a very nice repaint FY1 in the past, factory interior etc with what I believe to be only 68k miles. (It spent a lot of its life in Alaska). The motor is down on power (matching #) I think due to a cam going flat. The car is a bit of a survivor, originally a Calif car, the second owner in the mid 70' started to "customize" the car was was popular then. Over the years he removed and chromed all sorts of things under the hood; pulleys, brackets, linkage, hard lines, hinges, brake booster, M/C, intake, fasteners, shocks, sway bar and links, shocks, T-bars, and ALOT more. You get the idea. It is all super quality "show" chrome and in perfect shape! The dilemma is, do I keep it as a "survivor" of sorts or replace it with factory painted parts? How difficult and $$ is finding the correct date code parts? Is the car more valuable in "stock" appearing condition? I am thinking of building a stroker motor to make the car more fun to drive and putting the # matching 340 in a bag to keep it safe or should I just freshen it up ( I don't beat too hard on it). Thanks!
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Re: T/A Challanger, opinions please
[Re: Dr Dave]
#1765165
02/28/15 02:01 PM
02/28/15 02:01 PM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,823
Kirkland, Washington
Pacnorthcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 21,823
Kirkland, Washington
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It's not a survivor, not even close, but that's OK. Yes it's worth more in stock condition, a lot more. Yours sounds like a driver TA. If it was mine I would rebuild the 340, or build a NOM 340/360 6 pak, and store the numbers engine. I would also start to replace the chromed pieces that are cheapest/easiest to find and those that are most-offensive to they eyes (I am assuming you would prefer less chrome, if not fine, leave it). I don't mind chrome engine parts nearly as much as chromed chassis/suspension parts so if it was mine those would be the first to go. 
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Re: T/A Challanger, opinions please
[Re: Pacnorthcuda]
#1765167
02/28/15 03:10 PM
02/28/15 03:10 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Sound like you have original parts for the engine, they are just chromed now. Those parts really aren't worth more than non chromed parts. Most of the parts you mentioned are special to the T/A and hard to find original. IF they can be returned to there non chromed state and look correct, it's cost and time effective to work with what you have that you know the quality of in your own hands.
Some of the parts could be bead blasted to roughen the chrome so paint will stick and paint them. stock valve cover (T/A), Torsion bars, intake...
Or the stuff like pulleys, master cylinder (check #'s first to see if it's the special one), brakets, sway bar (T/A), that are black, have them blasted and powdercoated semi flat black.
Send to booster to Booster Dewey to have rebuilt and sent back to you unpainted. Then you paint semi flat black.
You might need to send detailed stuff to a chrome shop to have them chemically remove the chrome. Like the carb linkage, hood springs (special for T/A), hood hinges....
Last edited by autoxcuda; 02/28/15 03:11 PM.
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Re: T/A Challanger, opinions please
[Re: Dr Dave]
#1765169
02/28/15 04:03 PM
02/28/15 04:03 PM
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Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
DAYCLONA
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 18,157
Mass
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Quote:
I have a very nice T/A that I'm not sure what to do with. It has had a very nice repaint FY1 in the past, factory interior etc with what I believe to be only 68k miles. (It spent a lot of its life in Alaska). The motor is down on power (matching #) I think due to a cam going flat. The car is a bit of a survivor, originally a Calif car, the second owner in the mid 70' started to "customize" the car was was popular then. Over the years he removed and chromed all sorts of things under the hood; pulleys, brackets, linkage, hard lines, hinges, brake booster, M/C, intake, fasteners, shocks, sway bar and links, shocks, T-bars, and ALOT more. You get the idea. It is all super quality "show" chrome and in perfect shape! The dilemma is, do I keep it as a "survivor" of sorts or replace it with factory painted parts? How difficult and $$ is finding the correct date code parts? Is the car more valuable in "stock" appearing condition? I am thinking of building a stroker motor to make the car more fun to drive and putting the # matching 340 in a bag to keep it safe or should I just freshen it up ( I don't beat too hard on it). Thanks!
Hmmmmm....sounds like your describing my Challenger T/A except its white, I did the same thing with the car in the early 80's, chromed EVERYTHING under the hood, including the exhaust system, plus EVERY hose/tubing is braided stainless  , outwardly the car has a stock appearance, but once the hood is open you need sunglasses 
Your first issue is to address the engine, stock 340's are fun, but strokers are more fun, I have a 410 CI stroker in mine, IMHO I'd spend the $$$ on a stroker, whether you use your existing engine or purchase a "crate" motor that's your call to make
If the stock/OEM look is your bag, then either replace the chrome components, sell them off to those that want chromed components or have them de-chromed at a plating shop (be careful if they are aluminum/potmetal pcs)...or keep the chrome if that's what you like?, as long as it's not pitted/rusted....
But you have to ask yourself how YOU like your car's appearance, don't worry how others perceive it, or tailor it to fit the current trend, whether it be OEM, restomod, custom, etc
Mike
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Re: T/A Challanger, opinions please
[Re: NANKET]
#1765171
02/28/15 04:03 PM
02/28/15 04:03 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
autoxcuda
Too Many Posts
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Too Many Posts
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 27,468
So Cal
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Quote:
Remove the chrome and you might find the parts have benn smoothed out to make the plating lay down flat. Then these parts are worthless to a restoration. Think this over first. You can get something for them if show chrome in great shape. You get nothing if you strip it.
Figure out what is common and what is unique to the T/A with date stamps.
They don't start plating over cast surfaces. The roughness of the cast intake may be gone, same with the sway bar, master cylinder, etc.
Original 340-6 intakes are not hard to find, 6 pack linkage, T bars are easy. Pulliies and alt brackets are not unique.
The valve covers may be OK under the chrome, the master cyl is special and sad if ground smooth.
Very true. Need to really examine each part and compare to pictures of original to see if they smoothed or altered the part for chroming. Usually for cast parts like you mentioned.
Shame if they messed up that master cyl. With the cost of cores (~$500?), I'd try aggressively sandblasting the outside visible surfaces (not the numbers if still there). Then paint it and see what it looks like. At least it would be tall and ports on right side. 
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