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Battery Relocation Kit
#1762079
02/24/15 05:23 PM
02/24/15 05:23 PM
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 51
Boca Raton, Florida
daveh1971
OP
member
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OP
member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 51
Boca Raton, Florida
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Hey Guys, I'm in the middle of my restoration of my 71 Challenger Convertible and was thinking about cleaning up the engine bay by installing a battery relocation kit in the trunk. What are your opinions on this (good vs bad?). Is it easy to do? I'd like to buy an entire kit to make it easier. I would also include a shut off in the trunk. I've seen some posts but many are old and I would like a current way to do it if there are better components, etc. I know I want to stick with 1 gauge wire also. Let me know your opinions. Thanks What box size should I shoot for? I want to make sure I get the right size. Does anyone have a preference between the plastic or aluminum box? I'm thinking of the ones below let me know. If you have a better one please let me know. Thanks http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-khttp://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48204/overview/http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48203/overview/Dave
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: daveh1971]
#1762080
02/24/15 08:01 PM
02/24/15 08:01 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
mikemee1331
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
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Quote:
Hey Guys,
I'm in the middle of my restoration of my 71 Challenger Convertible and was thinking about cleaning up the engine bay by installing a battery relocation kit in the trunk.
What are your opinions on this (good vs bad?). Is it easy to do? I'd like to buy an entire kit to make it easier. I would also include a shut off in the trunk. I've seen some posts but many are old and I would like a current way to do it if there are better components, etc. I know I want to stick with 1 gauge wire also. Let me know your opinions. Thanks
What box size should I shoot for? I want to make sure I get the right size. Does anyone have a preference between the plastic or aluminum box?
I'm thinking of the ones below let me know. If you have a better one please let me know. Thanks
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48204/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48203/overview/
Dave
nothing against Summit but I would give Mancini a call. they're a sponsor of this site and have great prices and support. knowledgeable bunch and been dealing with Mopars forever 
http://www.manciniracing.com/matrmobakit.html
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: daveh1971]
#1762081
02/24/15 08:04 PM
02/24/15 08:04 PM
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Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 518
Georgia
Steve Bryant
mopar
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mopar
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 518
Georgia
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There are plenty of smart people here who can help. I would also recommend you call Mark at M.A.D.D. Electrical and talk to him about it. Here his his weblink: http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog.shtmlMark has forgotten more about Mopar electrical systems than I will ever know and he is a pleasure to speak to. He has kits for this but more than that, he is known for giving great advice for those who call. He can tell you what works and what doesn't and he will help you put together a safe plan. I have never relocated my battery but I had some other electrical questions and tasks and he hooked me up with both parts and knowledge. -Steve
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: daveh1971]
#1762083
02/25/15 04:47 PM
02/25/15 04:47 PM
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
RapidRobert
Circle Track
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Circle Track
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 36,040
Lincoln Nebraska
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As you know many ways to go. measure the length/width of your battery as you need a box a bit wider on the width for the holddown strap assy and longer on the ends for the cables. Decide if you want the main cable to the starter hot all the time (my preference) or not & if not then a furd type solenoid in the trunk to open/close the main cable for cranking. Decide if you want to keep the ammeter (I keep it) & the main theme of the Madd bypass is it eliminates the ammeter & runs the alt directly to the batt keeping alot of current out of the bulkhead (a problem area) but I believe Nachos bypass takes care of that. I run the hot all the time cable from trunk batt to the starter and large cable from starter to alt then from starter to starter relay "batt" stud and an ammeter in series in that line between starter/starter relay & starter relay to fusible link/bulkhead then on inside the dash like OE & do Nacho's bulkhead parallel bypass which is just running the 2 main in/out charge wire straight thru not using the brass terminals (4) for those 2 lines and a switched 12V inside for a voltmeter. My reasoning is: the trunk batt shifts weight, welding cable insulation is very thick & ain't gonna short out, no solenoid in trunk that might go bad, I am old school & like the ammeter (plus an added switched voltmeter). Some have had issues with the ammeter but I never have. If the main cable ain't hot all the time you still need a smaller cable rearward to trigger the solenoid so why have (2) cables. Caveat dont use too small of cable that can cause an excessive voltage drop to the starter when eng/starter is hot/batt somewhat aged. Definitely peruse the Madd info
live every 24 hour block of time like it's your last day on earth
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: nomore65BelvJim]
#1762086
02/25/15 08:34 PM
02/25/15 08:34 PM
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Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
mikemee1331
master
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master
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,154
bethlehem pa
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Quote:
Quote:
nothing against Summit but I would give Mancini a call. they're a sponsor of this site and have great prices and support. knowledgeable bunch and been dealing with Mopars forever
http://www.manciniracing.com/matrmobakit.html
Mancini's is good and all, but their product descriptions tend to suck. Pics aint much good either and this product is an example of both.
that's the truth! I especially loved how when you enlarge the pic the product stays the same size but the area around it got bigger! the idea was to show they have one, show the price and then pick up the phone! 
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: mikemee1331]
#1762087
02/26/15 04:34 PM
02/26/15 04:34 PM
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 16,844
Phoenix - surface of the sun
nomore65BelvJim
I Live Here
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I Live Here
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 16,844
Phoenix - surface of the sun
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Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
nothing against Summit but I would give Mancini a call. they're a sponsor of this site and have great prices and support. knowledgeable bunch and been dealing with Mopars forever
http://www.manciniracing.com/matrmobakit.html
Mancini's is good and all, but their product descriptions tend to suck. Pics aint much good either and this product is an example of both.
that's the truth! I especially loved how when you enlarge the pic the product stays the same size but the area around it got bigger! the idea was to show they have one, show the price and then pick up the phone!
They'd be miles (and $'s) ahead if they at least listed the parts and pieces included in the "kits".
I'd bet the 5 minutes it would take to update the website info on this item would yield a $ return on the first call they didnt get about whats included in the kit. 
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: daveh1971]
#1762089
02/26/15 06:03 PM
02/26/15 06:03 PM
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
Lefty
master
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master
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,516
Santa Cruz, California
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I always build my own and include a security/safety device called a latching solenoid. The latching solenoid enables me to completely cut (or restore) power from the battery with a single push of a hidden switch. You can't hot wire the car without battery power. I use 1/0 cable and hide the latching solenoid deep so getting to it takes work and figuring out where it is. I've used a simple grounding device right at the battery and a firewall bulkhead to transfer power into the engine compartment and provide power taps on both sides. The engine to firewall ground strap needs to be heavy to carry the starter current. I've used this setup on three Mopars with 10 years of reliability and zero failures. I noticed Painless has picked up on the idea and sells a very expensive version. Make sure you use the Cole-Hersee version solenoid if you build your own. Latching Solenoid 
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: Lefty]
#1762091
02/26/15 08:56 PM
02/26/15 08:56 PM
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
rowin4
master
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master
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 6,257
gulfport, ms, west mi
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Restoration and putting a battery in the trunk should not be in the same sentence or paragraph. 
Last edited by rowin4; 02/26/15 08:57 PM.
it's ok to butt heads, just don't do it with a butthead
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: Mr.Yuck]
#1762093
02/27/15 01:18 AM
02/27/15 01:18 AM
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 220
Aurora, CO
jbeintherockies
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 220
Aurora, CO
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Quote:
I'd never ever put a battery in the trunk again, unless it was to make room for a turbo(s) or a supercharger. You might "clean up" your engine bay, however you are adding it all to the trunk. Not worth the effort. Also IF you ever decide to run down the track you will have to add an external on/off switch.
Totally agree.
I am in the process of correcting my brother's car's battery relo. To do a battery relo correctly takes a little bit more thought, effort and time. I contacted Mark Hamilton of MAD electrical and he provided a very detailed diagram on how to wire a relocated battery for a street/strip car. I would start with MAD electrical and go from there. 
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: 383man]
#1762095
02/27/15 12:52 PM
02/27/15 12:52 PM
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 220
Aurora, CO
jbeintherockies
enthusiast
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enthusiast
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 220
Aurora, CO
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Quote:
I love having my battery in the trunk. It was a piece of cake to do in my opinion. And some 63 Max Wedge cars had their batteries in the trunk. I used a Marine case which is legal as long as you bolt the battery down inside the box. I like doing electrical work so I enjoyed installing mine in the trunk. I did not want to drill a hole in my car so I drilled a hole in my tailite lens and ran the rod to the cutoff switch through the taillite lens that way if I ever put it back up front all I have to do is replace the lens and I have an extra lens. I knew I was going to race sometimes so I went and put the cutoff switch in when I put the battery back there. Ron
It depends how it is done. When you start adding relays there are more wires to run. MAD Electrical's approach adds a relay that disconnects the 1/0 gauge wire run from the battery to the starter when you are not cranking the engine. That way that run is dead unless you are trying to start the car. That means you need to run an additional wire to the battery from the alternator to charge the battery. To activate the relay when you turn the key, another wire is needed to send the signal to the relay.
Next, does the battery disconnect simply open the 1/0 gauge run to the starter? Or does it shut-off the car? When you switch the battery disconnect switch to the 'off' setting, does the car keep running? Disconnecting the electrical system from the battery while the car is running is a very bad thing to do. I'm sure you know that, but my bro's car didn't shutoff when the disconnect switch was thrown. So you say its easy, but someone messed it up with his car!
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Re: Battery Relocation Kit
[Re: crackedback]
#1762097
02/28/15 01:30 AM
02/28/15 01:30 AM
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
StealthWedge67
master
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master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 4,319
Puyallup, WA
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I used the Taylor box since its NHRA legal, and 1 ga. cable with a Summit switch in the bumper. I like how it cleaned up the engine bay, and it gave me the room I needed to run a cold air induction setup. The whole mod fit real well with the street / strip vibe of my car. I haven't had an issue with it all now for a few years.
LemonWedge - Street heavy / Strip ready - 11.07 @ 120
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