Battery Relocation Kit

Posted By: daveh1971

Battery Relocation Kit - 02/24/15 09:23 PM

Hey Guys,

I'm in the middle of my restoration of my 71 Challenger Convertible and was thinking about cleaning up the engine bay by installing a battery relocation kit in the trunk.

What are your opinions on this (good vs bad?). Is it easy to do? I'd like to buy an entire kit to make it easier. I would also include a shut off in the trunk. I've seen some posts but many are old and I would like a current way to do it if there are better components, etc. I know I want to stick with 1 gauge wire also. Let me know your opinions. Thanks

What box size should I shoot for? I want to make sure I get the right size. Does anyone have a preference between the plastic or aluminum box?

I'm thinking of the ones below let me know. If you have a better one please let me know. Thanks

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48204/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48203/overview/

Dave

Posted By: mikemee1331

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/25/15 12:01 AM

Quote:

Hey Guys,

I'm in the middle of my restoration of my 71 Challenger Convertible and was thinking about cleaning up the engine bay by installing a battery relocation kit in the trunk.

What are your opinions on this (good vs bad?). Is it easy to do? I'd like to buy an entire kit to make it easier. I would also include a shut off in the trunk. I've seen some posts but many are old and I would like a current way to do it if there are better components, etc. I know I want to stick with 1 gauge wire also. Let me know your opinions. Thanks

What box size should I shoot for? I want to make sure I get the right size. Does anyone have a preference between the plastic or aluminum box?

I'm thinking of the ones below let me know. If you have a better one please let me know. Thanks

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1231-k

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48204/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tay-48203/overview/

Dave

nothing against Summit but I would give Mancini a call. they're a sponsor of this site and have great prices and support. knowledgeable bunch and been dealing with Mopars forever

http://www.manciniracing.com/matrmobakit.html

Posted By: Steve Bryant

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/25/15 12:04 AM

There are plenty of smart people here who can help. I would also recommend you call Mark at M.A.D.D. Electrical and talk to him about it. Here his his weblink:

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog.shtml

Mark has forgotten more about Mopar electrical systems than I will ever know and he is a pleasure to speak to. He has kits for this but more than that, he is known for giving great advice for those who call. He can tell you what works and what doesn't and he will help you put together a safe plan.

I have never relocated my battery but I had some other electrical questions and tasks and he hooked me up with both parts and knowledge.

-Steve

Posted By: D_C

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/25/15 06:13 PM

Agree with above. I read the MADD info before my conversion. I used a Plastic Moroso battery box. That was 12-years ago and it has held up very well. Aluminum can corrode.

Posted By: RapidRobert

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/25/15 08:47 PM

As you know many ways to go. measure the length/width of your battery as you need a box a bit wider on the width for the holddown strap assy and longer on the ends for the cables. Decide if you want the main cable to the starter hot all the time (my preference) or not & if not then a furd type solenoid in the trunk to open/close the main cable for cranking. Decide if you want to keep the ammeter (I keep it) & the main theme of the Madd bypass is it eliminates the ammeter & runs the alt directly to the batt keeping alot of current out of the bulkhead (a problem area) but I believe Nachos bypass takes care of that. I run the hot all the time cable from trunk batt to the starter and large cable from starter to alt then from starter to starter relay "batt" stud and an ammeter in series in that line between starter/starter relay & starter relay to fusible link/bulkhead then on inside the dash like OE & do Nacho's bulkhead parallel bypass which is just running the 2 main in/out charge wire straight thru not using the brass terminals (4) for those 2 lines and a switched 12V inside for a voltmeter. My reasoning is: the trunk batt shifts weight, welding cable insulation is very thick & ain't gonna short out, no solenoid in trunk that might go bad, I am old school & like the ammeter (plus an added switched voltmeter). Some have had issues with the ammeter but I never have. If the main cable ain't hot all the time you still need a smaller cable rearward to trigger the solenoid so why have (2) cables. Caveat dont use too small of cable that can cause an excessive voltage drop to the starter when eng/starter is hot/batt somewhat aged. Definitely peruse the Madd info

Posted By: nomore65BelvJim

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/25/15 08:59 PM

Quote:

nothing against Summit but I would give Mancini a call. they're a sponsor of this site and have great prices and support. knowledgeable bunch and been dealing with Mopars forever
http://www.manciniracing.com/matrmobakit.html

Mancini's is good and all, but their product descriptions tend to suck. Pics aint much good either and this product is an example of both.

Posted By: Mr.Yuck

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/25/15 09:39 PM

I'd never ever put a battery in the trunk again, unless it was to make room for a turbo(s) or a supercharger. You might "clean up" your engine bay, however you are adding it all to the trunk. Not worth the effort. Also IF you ever decide to run down the track you will have to add an external on/off switch.

Posted By: mikemee1331

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/26/15 12:34 AM

Quote:

Quote:

nothing against Summit but I would give Mancini a call. they're a sponsor of this site and have great prices and support. knowledgeable bunch and been dealing with Mopars forever
http://www.manciniracing.com/matrmobakit.html

Mancini's is good and all, but their product descriptions tend to suck. Pics aint much good either and this product is an example of both.

that's the truth! I especially loved how when you enlarge the pic the product stays the same size but the area around it got bigger! the idea was to show they have one, show the price and then pick up the phone!

Posted By: nomore65BelvJim

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/26/15 08:34 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

nothing against Summit but I would give Mancini a call. they're a sponsor of this site and have great prices and support. knowledgeable bunch and been dealing with Mopars forever
http://www.manciniracing.com/matrmobakit.html

Mancini's is good and all, but their product descriptions tend to suck. Pics aint much good either and this product is an example of both.

that's the truth! I especially loved how when you enlarge the pic the product stays the same size but the area around it got bigger! the idea was to show they have one, show the price and then pick up the phone!

They'd be miles (and $'s) ahead if they at least listed the parts and pieces included in the "kits".
I'd bet the 5 minutes it would take to update the website info on this item would yield a $ return on the first call they didnt get about whats included in the kit.

Posted By: skicker

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/26/15 08:55 PM

When I relocated mine in the Dart I used an Aluminum Battery box. Its only a couple years old now but no issues. I also installed a remote battery disconnect that is in the trunk but the switch for it is located elsewhere. It makes it nice to be able to shut everything down without setting back down in the car and having to walk to the back to turn the disconnect back on. I got everything from Summit...one and done...

Posted By: Lefty

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/26/15 10:03 PM

I always build my own and include a security/safety device called a latching solenoid. The latching solenoid enables me to completely cut (or restore) power from the battery with a single push of a hidden switch. You can't hot wire the car without battery power.

I use 1/0 cable and hide the latching solenoid deep so getting to it takes work and figuring out where it is.

I've used a simple grounding device right at the battery and a firewall bulkhead to transfer power into the engine compartment and provide power taps on both sides.

The engine to firewall ground strap needs to be heavy to carry the starter current.

I've used this setup on three Mopars with 10 years of reliability and zero failures. I noticed Painless has picked up on the idea and sells a very expensive version. Make sure you use the Cole-Hersee version solenoid if you build your own.

Latching Solenoid

Posted By: Lefty

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/26/15 10:24 PM

You can also fab your own battery box with a cutoff wheel, T dolly and a mig welder. This is a replacement box I built for a 47 Dodge truck box that had rusted away.

Posted By: rowin4

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/27/15 12:56 AM

Restoration and putting a battery in the trunk should not be in the same sentence or paragraph.

Posted By: Supercuda

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/27/15 01:19 AM

Quote:

Restoration and putting a battery in the trunk should not be in the same sentence or paragraph.

Or thread?

Posted By: jbeintherockies

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/27/15 05:18 AM

Quote:

I'd never ever put a battery in the trunk again, unless it was to make room for a turbo(s) or a supercharger. You might "clean up" your engine bay, however you are adding it all to the trunk. Not worth the effort. Also IF you ever decide to run down the track you will have to add an external on/off switch.

Totally agree.

I am in the process of correcting my brother's car's battery relo. To do a battery relo correctly takes a little bit more thought, effort and time. I contacted Mark Hamilton of MAD electrical and he provided a very detailed diagram on how to wire a relocated battery for a street/strip car. I would start with MAD electrical and go from there.

Posted By: 383man

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/27/15 05:42 AM

I love having my battery in the trunk. It was a piece of cake to do in my opinion. And some 63 Max Wedge cars had their batteries in the trunk. I used a Marine case which is legal as long as you bolt the battery down inside the box. I like doing electrical work so I enjoyed installing mine in the trunk. I did not want to drill a hole in my car so I drilled a hole in my tailite lens and ran the rod to the cutoff switch through the taillite lens that way if I ever put it back up front all I have to do is replace the lens and I have an extra lens. I knew I was going to race sometimes so I went and put the cutoff switch in when I put the battery back there. Ron

Posted By: jbeintherockies

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/27/15 04:52 PM

Quote:

I love having my battery in the trunk. It was a piece of cake to do in my opinion. And some 63 Max Wedge cars had their batteries in the trunk. I used a Marine case which is legal as long as you bolt the battery down inside the box. I like doing electrical work so I enjoyed installing mine in the trunk. I did not want to drill a hole in my car so I drilled a hole in my tailite lens and ran the rod to the cutoff switch through the taillite lens that way if I ever put it back up front all I have to do is replace the lens and I have an extra lens. I knew I was going to race sometimes so I went and put the cutoff switch in when I put the battery back there. Ron

It depends how it is done. When you start adding relays there are more wires to run. MAD Electrical's approach adds a relay that disconnects the 1/0 gauge wire run from the battery to the starter when you are not cranking the engine. That way that run is dead unless you are trying to start the car. That means you need to run an additional wire to the battery from the alternator to charge the battery. To activate the relay when you turn the key, another wire is needed to send the signal to the relay.

Next, does the battery disconnect simply open the 1/0 gauge run to the starter? Or does it shut-off the car? When you switch the battery disconnect switch to the 'off' setting, does the car keep running? Disconnecting the electrical system from the battery while the car is running is a very bad thing to do. I'm sure you know that, but my bro's car didn't shutoff when the disconnect switch was thrown. So you say its easy, but someone messed it up with his car!

Posted By: crackedback

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/27/15 06:54 PM

Starter - Ford starter solenoid
Alt charge line - CD relay

Yes it takes more wire, but nothing is hot at the front of your car when the master is thrown when wired correctly. That is much safer than the minimum acceptable standard.

If your brothers car runs after the master is thrown, an alt charge wire is likely still attached somewhere. Maybe original black feed wire off alt, running back through bulkhead. The only wire attached to the charge stud should be the wire running back to the battery in trunk to test the switch.

Posted By: StealthWedge67

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/28/15 05:30 AM

I used the Taylor box since its NHRA legal, and 1 ga. cable with a Summit switch in the bumper. I like how it cleaned up the engine bay, and it gave me the room I needed to run a cold air induction setup. The whole mod fit real well with the street / strip vibe of my car. I haven't had an issue with it all now for a few years.

Posted By: 383man

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/28/15 05:41 AM

Quote:

Quote:

I love having my battery in the trunk. It was a piece of cake to do in my opinion. And some 63 Max Wedge cars had their batteries in the trunk. I used a Marine case which is legal as long as you bolt the battery down inside the box. I like doing electrical work so I enjoyed installing mine in the trunk. I did not want to drill a hole in my car so I drilled a hole in my tailite lens and ran the rod to the cutoff switch through the taillite lens that way if I ever put it back up front all I have to do is replace the lens and I have an extra lens. I knew I was going to race sometimes so I went and put the cutoff switch in when I put the battery back there. Ron

It depends how it is done. When you start adding relays there are more wires to run. MAD Electrical's approach adds a relay that disconnects the 1/0 gauge wire run from the battery to the starter when you are not cranking the engine. That way that run is dead unless you are trying to start the car. That means you need to run an additional wire to the battery from the alternator to charge the battery. To activate the relay when you turn the key, another wire is needed to send the signal to the relay.

Next, does the battery disconnect simply open the 1/0 gauge run to the starter? Or does it shut-off the car? When you switch the battery disconnect switch to the 'off' setting, does the car keep running? Disconnecting the electrical system from the battery while the car is running is a very bad thing to do. I'm sure you know that, but my bro's car didn't shutoff when the disconnect switch was thrown. So you say its easy, but someone messed it up with his car!

Well as I stated I love doing electrical work so yes it was very easy for me. Of course you have to run additional wires and you have to make sure your alt output is run back to the battery side of the cutout switch or it will not kill the eng when you hit the switch. Myself I use a seperate Ford type starter solenoid in the trunk so that the battery cable to my starter is only hot while cranking and then I run another wire from the wire harness side of the cutout switch up to my factory starter relay where the car picks up its hot all the time wire and thats the wire that has to go through the cutoff switch. Ron

Posted By: DART

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/28/15 02:49 PM

Quote:

Starter - Ford starter solenoid
Alt charge line - CD relay

Yes it takes more wire, but nothing is hot at the front of your car when the master is thrown when wired correctly. That is much safer than the minimum acceptable standard.

If your brothers car runs after the master is thrown, an alt charge wire is likely still attached somewhere. Maybe original black feed wire off alt, running back through bulkhead. The only wire attached to the charge stud should be the wire running back to the battery in trunk to test the switch.

Can you post a wiring diagram on how you wire it,

Posted By: Silver70

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/28/15 06:02 PM

Quote:

I'd never ever put a battery in the trunk again, unless it was to make room for a turbo(s) or a supercharger. You might "clean up" your engine bay, however you are adding it all to the trunk. Not worth the effort. Also IF you ever decide to run down the track you will have to add an external on/off switch.

I did it once, won't bother again. Extra wiring that can cause issues, extra holes drilled in the car and so on.

Posted By: Mr.Yuck

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/28/15 08:53 PM

Quote:

Quote:

I'd never ever put a battery in the trunk again, unless it was to make room for a turbo(s) or a supercharger. You might "clean up" your engine bay, however you are adding it all to the trunk. Not worth the effort. Also IF you ever decide to run down the track you will have to add an external on/off switch.

I did it once, won't bother again. Extra wiring that can cause issues, extra holes drilled in the car and so on.

And you'll need a more expensive higher output battery.

Posted By: 383man

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/28/15 09:06 PM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

I'd never ever put a battery in the trunk again, unless it was to make room for a turbo(s) or a supercharger. You might "clean up" your engine bay, however you are adding it all to the trunk. Not worth the effort. Also IF you ever decide to run down the track you will have to add an external on/off switch.

I did it once, won't bother again. Extra wiring that can cause issues, extra holes drilled in the car and so on.

And you'll need a more expensive higher output battery.

No you wont not if you do it right. I still have the same battery in my car that I have used since I put it on the road in 2006 and I did not put a bigger more expensive battery in it. As long as you have a good battery and use the right cable so you dont have to much voltage drop you dont have to buy a super duty battery. But in all honesty most of us muscle cars people put big high CCA batteries in our cars. Ron

Posted By: Polarapete

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 02/28/15 09:18 PM

And if you install a mini-starter it works even better

Posted By: crackedback

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 03/01/15 01:24 AM

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

Quote:

I'd never ever put a battery in the trunk again, unless it was to make room for a turbo(s) or a supercharger. You might "clean up" your engine bay, however you are adding it all to the trunk. Not worth the effort. Also IF you ever decide to run down the track you will have to add an external on/off switch.

I did it once, won't bother again. Extra wiring that can cause issues, extra holes drilled in the car and so on.

And you'll need a more expensive higher output battery.

No you wont not if you do it right. I still have the same battery in my car that I have used since I put it on the road in 2006 and I did not put a bigger more expensive battery in it. As long as you have a good battery and use the right cable so you dont have to much voltage drop you dont have to buy a super duty battery. But in all honesty most of us muscle cars people put big high CCA batteries in our cars. Ron

EXACTLY!

Posted By: Mr.Yuck

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 03/01/15 04:56 AM

Honestly..it's a PITA and for what? The box you put in the truck is twice the size as the tray you are getting rid of.

Posted By: 383man

Re: Battery Relocation Kit - 03/01/15 05:10 AM

Quote:

Honestly..it's a PITA and for what? The box you put in the truck is twice the size as the tray you are getting rid of.

You kinda lost me there ? I mean the battery box I use is not much bigger then the battery itself. And I use a battery box because I dont want anything I put in my trunk having the chance of getting battery acid on it. Myself I love the extra room under the hood and with the size of our B-body trunks it does not really take up much space in the trunk. I usually just carry some tools with a hydraulic jack and a spare jacket in my trunk and I have plenty of room to spare. But I understand I like my battery in the trunk and you dont and thats fine as I am just pointing out why I like it. Mine is on the left side because I had just enough cable to reach there. Most like it on the right side but since I did not have enough cable I used what I had and put it on the left side which has worked fine for me.

Ron