Engine is a 440 and plan on going the 512 route. I am looking at Crower cranks and one thing I'm unsure of and don't know if I've ever seen it posted before was what rod width do you go with when using the 2.200 rod journals on the 4.25" crank?

Also, I found these rods online, would they work good in a 512 application that only see's street and occasionally strip use?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-6710022a/overview/

I'm not sure exactly if they will meet the "width" requirements. I plan on not turning the car beyond 6500 rpm and don't plan on running it that hard very often anyway.

I contacted Diamond for the pistons and am basically using the 1.480 CD dished (step on one side) pistons but going to change from the -24cc dish to a -16cc dish to keep the compression up to ~10.5:1. Does that sound like I'm on the right track to you guys as far as the rotating assembly goes? I have not purchased anything yet and am only getting my plan together.

As far as clearance goes, what exactly is a stroker application most commonly creates clearance problems with the block?

Thanks

You might checkout 440sources' site & see if the 2.2 rod journal stroker cranks use Mopar or chebby widths. On my 451 (400 block/440 crank) the counterweights (front/rear iirc) hit slightly so I had them (all of em) turned to 7.25". in your case not sure if there could or will be a rod bolt to bottom of cyl bore clearance or not (Source would know)

I recently built a 512 stroker from a 440 block we used the 440 source kit with the 2.2 chevy rods, It all fit great with zero clearance issues the kt for the crank, rods,pistons, rings and bearings was $2249.00 shipped to your door

If this is your first stroker build you might want to go with a kit rather than trying to piece together parts. Or work with an engine builder who has some experience with Mopar stroker engines. The Crower crank will most likely be very expensive. Not sure you need to spend that kind of money for what you're trying to accomplish. Take a look at K1, Molnar, SCAT, 440Source, Callies, etc. Better yet, go to Hughes Engines or Mancini Racing and look at the kits they sell.

Thanks, so basically I need to do some detective work and find out what lengths they use on the counterweights in addition to their rod widths and the rest should be good.

How hard have you guys ran your 440source stroker engines?

Are you guys using the 7.100" rods? Is it a good rod ratio?

7.10 works fine with 4.25 stroke but so does a 6.80 rod. Pistons can be found for either rod length.

If the crankshaft has a 2.200 rod journal then it should be Chevy width.

Yes, you need to do detective work if you aren't buying a kit. Figure out what bobweight you're shooting for and find out what the crank is designed for. Same with the rod length and counterweight diameter.

Thanks, what is a typical bobweight used in a BB stroker street/light strip application? I'm not even sure where to find that number other than on one of the sites mentioned and I'm sure they will all differ.

I use a 440Source kit but its a 4.15 crank in a .030 over 440 for 493 cubes. I use stock lenth rods and have raced it once or trice a year since 2011 when I put it in the car. I shift it around 6200 as it seems to like that and trap about 6400. I use the basic EZ heads and the Indy dual plane intake with an 850 DP. I also drive the car alot on the street as its about a 99% street car. I only got to the track once last year and got 4 passes in but it runs great for a car I usually drive 45 miles to the track. It pushes my 3700 lb 63 to 10.70's through the exh so far and its a pump gas eng. Heck if I ever build it some more I will most likely go bigger as by todays standards a 493 is a small stroker. Ron

I was waiting for you post...I absolutely love your '63

I guess my main concern is, are any common aftermarket forged cranks/rods stronger than the factory Chrysler forged cranks and LY rods?

Nope. They can be made stronger though. Rods on the other had are another story. Go aftermarket with them.

BS.
All of the 4340 forged cranks are stronger than the OEM Chrysler cranks.
The Chrysler material was perfectly suited to getting a 5000 lb Imperial to top speed or working every bit of air that those 228cfm bigblock heads would flow. It was also the lowest cost material that would do the job, or nearly the lowest cost.

The LY rods are surprising in only that so many of them actually lived in drag racing. They too are far inferior to any of the 4340 aftermarket rods.

Let's get real. Chrysler built cars to sell. They knew that racers would improve what was needed.

Now on to what to buy...If your horsepower goals are 600 or less, any of the 4340 aftermarket cranks are strong enough. The difference is mainly in the machining. And for that level, if one wants to give Crower some business, that's fine with me, but that crank will be overkill. The same with rods.

Spend some time talking on the phone with your short list of vendors and try to get a feel who you get along with. If you have problems later, that will become important. And for your first time, buy a kit from one dealer or shop. That way if something doesn't fit, they can't blame the other guy.

R.

Source 2.2 stroker rods have the Mopar width built in, no excessive side to side play you would get with Chevy size.

If I understand your goals on power output you should call Tom Molnar at 616-940-4640 and price his rods and cranks He stocks the 7.100 forged steel H beam rods for Mopar strokers in both widths, I've used the BB chevy widths in a lot of builds with no bad results As far as bob wieght it depends on how much money you want to spend to get all the parts lightweight, custom milling on the piston, tool steel wrist pins, Titianum rods and such Make sure you ask Tom how much bob weight his 4.250 stroker cranks are set up for to start with, his Chevy rods are around 835 grams total I think :confused : EDITED, they weigh 833.6 grams total per the information directly from Molnars Tell Tom Cab said to call them