Just wandering on how everybodies garage art is coming along, mine STALLED OUT over supply issues and massive quanities of working 3rd shift OT the last few nice weekends, had one good weekend but a self-important numbnut decided to share his flu from the idiot side of his brain, promptly nailing 6 good dedicated people (out of 18 total) in their respective deathbeds (me included) and and waste out the rest. AutoRama is a distant memory, I hate using timebank on being sick... Now DD's got it, she is a horrible patient, great...

So no new updates, other than help Ben Grasso with his, found radiator hoses that will work on a 27" radiatior, and looking into electric fans (again), Billy is steering me to some NAPA kits that are reasonable and local, work well, installs easily, and can get me a great deal.

I noticed a for more 5.7 hemi swap inquiries and steered them this way, speak up if you're here!

-Daty

finally got my radiator in the weld shop for the brackets to get stich welded. they just came in the mail. need to install the clamps on my dana. still working on how to get this motor started!

I got the radiator at the shop (27" 3 core from Tyson), found hoses that fit (gotta cut them down) and found the hoses and the remote filter want to occupy the same spot, it'll take some creative hose routing on the filter to get it all to work and still look good and be accessible. AutoRama is this week, missed that deadline, the Shreveport show is late March, the Cowtown show is early April, the Dallas Dodge show is late April (I think), and the AER show is early May. I gotta get moving and see massive progress again if it's going to be ready...

-Daty

picked up and installed my radiator on monday. need to go thru fitting the hoses process. finished clamping in my rear end. have to mount on the brakes.


is there a big difference using 10" x 2" -vrs-
11" x 2 1/2" set up?

the 11" I have are the finned hubs where the 10" are just plain.

How big a radiator, 22 or 27? I got the hoses figured out for a 27", the radiator a friend gave me is a 27", only needed one patch and a cleaning ($35!), the remote filter and the radiator hose down there get kinda cozy.

On you rear brakes, how big is the front? If you have 11" disks then using the 11" rear drums you'll have to bias down the rear quite a bit, if you have 12" disks the 11" will be fine. On my Cuda I use 12" disk front and a www.tsmmfg.com 11" disk rear kit, well balanced and I didn't need to dial down the rear any.

-Daty

I went with a 23" aluminum since this is a small block, and the rad support is a small block. its as good a four core with the flow says Northern. got that from don @ FBO with the other stuff. yesterday I just did the same thing you did using original hoses and cutting them to fit.

11" rotors up front. so your guessing I should use 10" rear drums to keep it more balanced?

11" rotors up front. so your guessing I should use 10" rear drums to keep it more balanced?


That's right, my understanding is with 11" drums and 11" disks you'd have to bias the rear down so much they would lose any gain by being larger. The real test is take it out on a wet road and see if the rears lock up first (and you swap ends). If they do you need to dial the rears down (or upsize the front disks).

-Daty

You can also tweak the rear bias with different-sized wheel cylinders. Unless you're going to do a fair number of open-track days with your new Hemi power, the 11" drums are probably overkill on most cars. Rear disks are a big help in modulating the brakes on the edge of lockup.

Clair

hey thanks for your help will use the 10" and road test.

If you're planning on rebuilding the whole drum assembly anyway, check to see what size wheel cylinders are in there now. I've been using (I think... slept MANY times since the change) 13/16" wheel cylinders from an early-70's Dodge truck (I think also on early 70's Darts, too), and my 10x2.5" rear drums don't lock at all. Hard "panic" stops will still lock the fronts first, and I've never had a proportioning valve in the car. I'll be checking on 7/8" cylinders some time later this year, to see if it helps stopping some more, or starts to lock up again. I *THINK* the OEM wheel cylinders were 15/16".

Front brakes are 11.75" Cordoba rotors with (previously) 73+ A-body slider calipers, and now 2000 Viper calipers. Both appear to work about the same for the kind of driving I do. Daty's TSM rear disks are pretty nice, though, and I think he's pretty happy with how that part of his Hemification project turned out.

Clair

dont know the size of the cylinders?
would like to go to the disk as well, but I have to trim back at this point with so much going on. this is why ill use the drums for they are in hand and do have an recent rebuilt of the shoes and springs.

Long time no update, was ill for several weeks so garage time was nil BUT did get a lot done this past weekend. With Clair's help I've got a 3" driveshaft that fits perfectly, and we modified a sender unit supply line to work with an fittings and will use it for the return. He used a sleeve and a nut then we flared the tube so an an fitting bolts on directly. There is no welding involved and quite an elegant solution. Got a lot of the fuel lines run, got my 27" radiator tested and patched, got an electric fan system mounted to it, got rad hoses that fit, but didn't get to the remote filter mounting yet (sorry Clair). The original throttle cable is so long it binds up so I've ordered a lokar throtle cable. It's looking better...

-Daty

so winter time brings on the colds to even you guys down south eh? thought that was a northern thing? glad your better now.

Im getting ready to run my gas system too from FBO, are you going with the -10 for the main run, then the -8 for the return line? should the pickup used in the gas tank be the larger 3/8" unit?

10 between the tank and pump, 8 from the pump up to the front fuel rail and regulator, and 6 return to the tank thru a fuel cooler and in the formally supply line on the sendor back into the tank. My pickup is a 3/8" line and will be part of the return system, output comes out of a sump on the tank, keeping the sendor means my factory gas gauge will work.

-Daty

Tried replying last night, but I guess it timed out when I had to go wrangle Willie for bedtime... grrrrr... ANYWAY, I'm glad to help, Daty. No hurry on the relo pics, that's not one of my priority projects.

Regarding the electric fan, though, although you didn't ask, I'll throw this little tidbit out there. I'm going to be using a fan controller from Delta Current Control. Their web site is set up in crappy frames, so click on "Components", and then scroll down to the bottom to see the unit. Basically controls voltage to the fan, so the start-up current spike is tiny, and runs the fan at varying speeds all the time to maintain rock-solid engine temps at a level YOU select. Pretty dang cool, and they've got a great reputation with the folks over on the Pro-Touring.com web site. It's only money, right?

Clair

Dallas Dodge was able to get me a screaming deal on a dualfan flex-i-lite system that includes fans, shround, mounts, and tuneable thermostatic control with relay and all associated wiring, completely covers the radiator.

-Daty

I got the canton remote filter mounted up, need to finish making the lines and it's ready to go. Dummied up the radiator to make sure I have clearance. Any tips on making an lines?

-Daty

yes daty on the AN lines - I dont know any tips as of yet. In calling a Rep he said your to wrap them with tape at the cut line ( hack saw or grinder cut off tool ) you want a clean cut. remove the red threaded end and slip it over the stainless line - watch your finger tips!
install in a vise and clamp the blue nut end. push the red line into place and using a wrench tighten.

the oil filter looks good, did it come with the mounting plate?

how many cfm's on your fan? looks like you have a good 3" space between the motor.

noticed your wire harness not on the sensors.