That's odd, I wonder why they recommend that? ATF +4 has added friction modifiers that allow the lock up clutch to SLIP on application to combat lock up converter shudder ...

One of the clutch packs they sent me has no grooves in the clutches, so I am not sure, but that's one thing I know was different on this build than past builds. We also squeezed more clutches in the pack with their setup...So maybe they need a thinner film...

Are you running one or two pickups from the pan? I assume that your oil pump cover has a pickup. I ask because I went out to the shop and looked at the 540 and the 500 and how I have them plumbed. The 500 has a 2 piece Indy maxx pump cover that will allow 2 pickups, but I am only using one. The 540 is using the front entrance like the one you tried to hook the accumulator to. I was using a plate under the pump (have to use a longer driveshaft) but the stack interfered with the K frame with the motor plate I had. Both of these seem to be working OK so far.

When I was building that 540 (mega block) I obtained a used Milodon 21000 2 piece pump cover that has the AN-10 inlet thinking I would use the bottom plate and the cover to feed the pump from both sides if I had feed issues. Both of those pieces are on the shelf now. That pump cover is about 1" think and it could be drilled/tapped for a fitting on the outside that would tap into the outlet side of the pump. Maybe even an AN-10 if you placed it in the right place to clear the bolts. Smaller would fit even better.

Looking at the pics of that block you do not appear to have many other options if you want a AN-10 line to the accumulator. PM me if you are interested in either of these pieces, priced right. I also have the pickup. Looks like this one but the cover is hard anodized.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Milodon/697/21000/10002/-1

Under pump feed plate is shown in this pic:

https://www.carid.com/milodon/swivel-connect-mpn-21150.html

I run the Milodon pump plate for a remote filter. I plumbed the outlet #8 line to the filter and put a tee in the return line at the pump to plumb in the accumulator. It works perfect. I have a electric solenoid in the accumulator lower end of the line , [ no waiting for oil ] at the inlet of the pump that turns on with the ignition switch to prelube the engine. Upon engine start the accumulator refills and maintains the same pressure as the engine oil gauge. As for 5/8" line, don't see it would do much more than the #8 [1/2"] , all the oil lines inside the block are pretty small and the accumulator is only 1/2" , any valving makes flow smaller yet.

I will using one of these adapters this year. And my AN10 should all work where I mounted everything.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/se...hItemId=1270978

In spite of the friction modifiers, many trans guys claim Mopar ATF+4 is the best fluid made

Well the short block is going together nicely this year....I have a billet rail oil pan in the works as well, and need just a few more parts yet. And, I landed a new job!

Congratulations on the new job!

Congrats on the job! Keep the build thread going please!!!

Right on man on both counts, new income and outcome at the same time..........

Whats up with that oil filter???

It's a cooler mug Al..............lol

Its a K&P Engineering re-usable filter. I have a couple of them I bought from Ray Bartons shop. I like these a lot better than others I have used.



And sanwhiched between the Milidon pump & cover and the oil filter is an adapter to go to my Accumulator



One of the things we have learned about Hemi engines with aluminum blocks is oil control, or lack there of gets you in trouble quick.

What you can't see this year is we modified the block ports that feed the heads and put restrictors in those. We had much debate about the size to use and settled on .070" holes in them.

Also the Ohio Crank boys did an awesome job on the re-work of the 4.75 crank. bearing clearances are set at .0015-.0025...Bigger and you will have less oil pressure than optimal at idle. We had to re-hone the crank bore in the block because one journal was bigger and then tell the guys at Ohio Crank what our sizes were. Its spins like glass on wet ice in there....

Looks nice, but that sounds awful tight on the bearing clearance.

THIS!!!!

I have .0024" on the rods w/ coated Clevite bearings and .0035" on the mains w/ regular Speed Pro 119M bearings. No problems w/ idle oil pressure. Only reason the rods are as tight as they are is due to the coating.

I think those rod bearing clearances on aluminum rods might be okay, definitely to tight for me for steel rods with either stock Mopar or BB Chevy rod journal sizes, maybe okay for Honda 1.88 rod size

Well, I got it all in the car yesterday and running. Its all home now and sounds mean....Got it all put in and running in about 5 hours with a little help.

The new trans is working nice too...We went the next step with a lot of really good parts from A&A because the day the rod let go, the trans had 3rd gear end up in the pan and was on the verge of not moving at all. We now have one of their billet drums with a ton of clutches in it and a few other goodies. I was impressed by how smooth it is.

I also ended up using the Milodon steel pan because another manufacturer cannot read the dimensions on a cad print for a pan....So needless to say, I have a very expensive spare pan if anyone is interested......With the restrictors in the block, the oil pressure is super steady at 82psi cold...Can't wait to try a test drive. Hopefully we do not burn any push rods restricting the upper end. That was an issue previously with this cam.

The Thumper carb just fires right up too...

All told, I killed two rods, two pistons, two valve guides and associated valves, one oil pump, one oil pan, had to repair the block & crank....Oh and high gear in the trans....covered the headers in 20-50 and dinged one with the rod cap. Plus all the associated gaskets.....Not sure the total, but it wasn't cheap. We found some issues with the heads we addressed this time as well.

Based on the hassle I had in tech last week with my other car, and this car not having a full cage, I may not get a chance to race it this year. My other car is fully certed, and tech was really being a PITA, so who knows. I might sell this engine to build a G3 Hemi and keep this car in the 10's...

[img:left][/img]

What was the root cause of the failure? I'll be firing up my Hemi soon (with a lot of the same parts). Just hoping to learn from your experience. Thanks!