The harnesses appeared to have the same part#.
My parts guy at the dealer spoke to the supplier today. Whoever he talked to had to talk to somebody higher than him to see if they want to send the missing parts or send another complete kit. I want another kit.
Hopefully I'll hear something Friday.

Bob

Profanity references are not allowed on this message board.

Hey Daty with all this progress going with your Hemi I just couldn't resist not showing everyone the man behind the Vert.

Jesse

geee... thanks Jesse, now I can't fly under the radar no more. I wonder how many other boggers are flying low watching all the fun here, Michael and Clair are, who else?

About the other forums and the new hemi swap, this is the only one I found that had more than one person actually doing this. I posted a bit on some others and gave up and have only posted here with hemi swap issuees since then.

-Daty

To me it just seems the brain trust is much bigger here, at least for all my questions that no one ever seems to be able to answer over there.

Jesse

I agree, it's not a good thing when a 3 year only car forum can't answer the more obscure questions.

Anyway, got the hemi in the vert. It's NOT coming out if I can at all avoid it, it was, umm, difficult. Bob (or anyone else) that goes in from above here's some tips, remove the mc or the #8 coil pack for clearance. If you have a Charlies oil pan you may want to consider notching the kframe for clearance. Remove the intake manifold and cinch the engine leveler as close to the motor as possible with as long a chain on the hoist as possible. Use short bolts on the backside of the head if you use a leveler. After getting the motor/tranny in place on the hoist it took about 3 hours to get in in place. Oh yeah, there is about 6 inches clearance between the radiator and pulleys. Well that and the hemi looks really good in there. 8^) That's about it for today, the headers go in tomorrow or Sunday, according to the instructs I have to lift the motor and remove the driver side t-bar, so up on the stands it goes.

-Daty

I got Randy Bouchillion's throttle/kickdown kit installed today, glad we installed it prior to the motor going in. The kit works really well and only had to cut/trim a couple/few things to make it fit perfect. I need to give Randy a shoutout and send him some pics.

-Daty

Street performance put in a 5.7 Hemi into a 70 Challenger I'm sure they can help you 479-394-5711
Its not as easy has it sounds

I check in now and then to keep tabs on the progress, but something about working 12 - 14 hr days keeps me away from the 'puter most of the time, shoot I haven't seen the inside of my garage in over 4 weeks , and to be fair to Daty I'll post a picture of Bob (sorry about that Bob!), he's the one on the right, Jesse you've met him at the Spring Fling a couple times, picture was taken 2 weeks before Thanksgiving which also happens to be the last time I had a chance to work on one of my cars.

Jesse, just curious are you still using the bushing reamer?

Back into lurk mood, I got's to get up for work in about 6 hours

Lee

engine looks good daty -- progress is made and your one more step closer!

with TTI's exhaust they recommend not using them with a new motor untill it is up and running tuned for the extra heat will discolor the tubes so I'll use the stock manifolds.

with my E body I had to cut my K frame to clear charlies oil pan too. I cut out the flange lip about an inch square on the front passenger side after I had it mounted.

already had the engine bay empty so no issue's of anything in the way.

using a cloth strap for my engine install wraped around the motor mounts balanced with a friend helping to keep it tilted back when lowering was a couple of hours long from start to finish bolted in.

had to hammer and bend my firewall/floor flange both sides around the hump for clearance of the bellhousing for my 5sp. so far my next step with the trans is to figure out how to install the oil flex hose.

Steve Enochs at www.paintshop101.com is also installing a 6.1 into a 71 Challenger as well as another one into a 70 Super Bee!

We built engine mounts and pans for them and the pan will clear the K frame with NO cutting....

He is also test fitting with the TTI mounts and headers but there are minor problems with fit. These are being addressed for future parts though.

I do agree that the K frame did not have to get cut.
Charlie's oil pan was up tight against it, so just to make sure it had room like the other side I cut mine.

Thanks for the pic Lee ! Smearing my goofy face on the internet brightened my day!

Jesse, We just made our reservations for the Spring Fling show today. Maybe we'll see you there or at Enrique's house.

Daty,
With the holidays, work (& on-call duty) and visiting my brother in the hospital, I have not gotten anything done in December. I still need to get the MP parts screw-up and delivery worked out.
This is taking much longer than anticipated.
I'm getting concerned about the fitting problems you guys mentioned. Not that they can't be worked out, it just doesn't seem to be as advertised.

I'm going to try to get back on track here in the next week or so.

Have fun!
57HemiDart ->>
Bob

Yea, we can't walk down the street without being noticed anymore! I've had off since the 24th and really worked on the cars 4 days out of it all so far, at least the motor is in now. Headers are still on the ground, and I don't think I can make AutoRama and have it finished to where I'm happy with it, it can be dummyed up and look good, but it won't be running. So far fitment has been "ok", not anything that can't be fixed. Once its in though, it's worth the effort.

Hope your brother is doing better, sickness around the holidays stink.

-Daty

Got the passenger header in, lots of room (TTI room, which means 1/8" inch). The driver side on the other hand I had to cut the subframe lip off a bit and move the brake splitter back about 2 inches and rearrange the brake lines out of the way for clearance. The worst of it though is the headers just hit the t-bar. I am using the taxicab bars (0.96) and if I had girlyman weenie bars I'd probably be ok. Calling TTI tomorrow as I sure don't want to hammer on these headers if I don't have to. Also the instrucs say to pull the driver side t-bar, you have to pull both t-bars (no biggie)

I got the trans-dapt remote oil filter (the 1.5-20 metric one) and the lines themselves are still normal thread. Tomorrow I'll be calling Milodon (that's who did the remote filter setup for TTI) and drop serious coin (dammit).

-Daty

Even if you had 0.86" bars, that's only 0.050" clear... a tad shy of 0.125" (aka, lots of room...). Before calling Milodon, can you find a local hydraulic hose outfit up near you that can MAKE the proper hose for you? Would be cheaper to just have a hose made.

Also, the new Mopar Action goes over a 6.1L install in a 68? GTX clone. E-berg opines that the button oil filter from a 86-87 Shelby GLHS Charger might fit, and still provide about as much volume as a standard filter. The B-body engine bay is way different, I know. Just a thought.

Clair

Daty,

Capital Bearing here in Austin is an aeroquip distributor and can do the nice professional high pressure crimp hoses. Braided even, just might have to wait on the fittings a day or two to come in if you want the real pretty stuff. I have copies of the aeroquip catalogs if you need part numbers for the braided line and crimp connectors for the braided line. Up in big D they may have that kind of stuff in stock. If you want to just do the industrial style with a swivel NPT fitting on at least one end they can usually do that while you wait. Stuff I have done for work was not too expensive, was rated for earth movers and could handle 5000 psi. I would recommend you get the remote filter stuff from Canton. You can do standard spin on stuff, or the fancier cannister style. They are the people who do the "accusump" systems as well if you are interested in that. For the rest of y'all Canton's spin on block adapter is one of the only that I have seen that isn't scary and has proper passages.

Well, I have decided to make my own motor mounts. Well, I guess really I have been forced to make my own motor mounts being that I can't seem to find any that will work for my truck. My truck frame is apparently several inches wider than the car frame the mounts I got from S&P were designed for. After seeing all this trouble with the oil filter interferance it might be a good idea anyways because then I can just design my mounts to allow the use of the stock filter in its original location. Plus it just kills me to have to wait for parts. I am dying to get this thing in. Hopefully it doesn't rain again this weekend so I can get some real progress done. It sucks that it rained almost half of my vacation here!

Got the remote oil filter solved. The block threads are 3/8 NPT (with a metric allen wrench hole?). I worked with Doug and www.cmracing.com and we worked out 3 ft.-10 line, 3-90Deg , 1 straight, 2 1/2NPT-10 for the filter, and one billet filter adapter. I also needed to pick up two Aeroquip FCM2185 (3/8 NPT to -10AN male) to go to the block since he didn't have any. Bob, anyone else using the TTI blockoff plate there is a solution. I took the trans dapt kit back.

Talked with Sam at TTI he suggested putting a spacer on the driver side or dinging the header, he gave me a quick tutorial on how so I SHOULD be golden there, find out soon enough...

-Daty