so the old engine is on the stand? what parts have you bought yet/rebuilt yet?

if you don't have the pistons yet, instead of those get some Kieth Black 167's- they'll get you much closer to 0 deck, to where a light square decking should get you there. this should help compression considerably.

if you haven't bought the cam yet, I'd think about dropping to an XE256 on such a heavy car.

if you haven't done anything to the heads, I'd seriously look at picking up a set of magnum heads. they have 1.92/1.625" valves, 63cc closed chambers (about 3-5cc smaller than your 318 heads, again will help compression as well as be much more efficient, as well as flow better than any 360 head....cmengines.com quoted me for some enginequest 318B heads (magnum replacement with LA intake bolt pattern), assembled with new OEM valves, seals, & keepers, and new GM3100 springs & retainers at 1.65" IH at $650/pr + ship last year. you'll be hard pressed to do a rebuild on your stock heads for that price if you need to replace valves, guides, install hardened exhaust seats, get new springs for your cam, etc....

headers, the summit or hedman cheapies will work fine, just put a good coat of paint on them if you get them uncoated. exhaust, if you can find a ready made kit (not sure if the summit kits fit the newer B's like yours), go with 2.5", if you go custom made, go 2.5" if it's compression bent, 2.25" if it's mandrel bent (compression bent will neck down to about 2-2.25" in the bends)

as for rear gear, if you plan on taking it on highways faster than 60mph, and your tires are less than 30" tall, you'll want to stay with the 2.7 rear gear. the smaller cam should work a little better with these highway gears, too. if you want a little more getup and go without sacraficing highway comfort, look for a newer 904 from the late 70's to late 80's, like out of a 5th avenue. they have a lower first & second gear (2.74/1.54 vs. 2.45/1.45) as well as a 5 disc front clutch. they are also a lockup tranny which will drop RPM on the highway for a little better economy, too.

OK PEOPLE, UPDATE TIME AGAIN (Pictures as soon as possible).. The interior is back in.

Hand made carpet with sound deadening matt and under padding and a set of black old time floor mats (front and rear) that were still in the plastic wrapper I found in the trunk - dated August of 1973 (K-MART) no less.

I have to buy a new seat/trunk divider board and jute for the back seat (I did'nt think of that...).

I had to cover over the headrests instead of sending them out for restoration (EXPENSIVE AS ALL GET OUT!!!).

The seats came out great for a novice sewing them togeather with nice verticle pleats. Done in black with gray cloth (original interior colors).

I have some cracked seat belt covers, but they can wait until later. I need to get the seat belt buzzer system working again (later).

The dash cap is in and looks ok (new dash pad later down the road). The dash is complete once again and working like a charm (all the gauges/lights again), but will need repainting later.

I cleaned and redyed the upper (door and passanger compartment) panels, but the chome is peeling (to be restored later).

The headliner looks good and almost professional (proud of myself).

Sport mirrors should be back from the shop (Semi gloss powder coating), by this comming Thursday.. Time for dual mirrors (template is already made for the passanger door)..

I am going to need weather stripping (window felts) in the near future...

The original AM radio is working again, just a blown light bulb inside and corroded power lead. I replaced the dash speaker thanks to radioshack (just cut the tabs, solder the leads and install).

The Panasonic 8 track player is on the fritz, but the FM cartridge still works great (i'll have to repair the player later, possibley just the drive band).

I now have new Jensen Coaxial Speakers in the back deck from 1974 (found in an old salvage store). I replaced the back shelf board while I was there and the jute padding as well.

Since the trunk pan was a bit flexible in some spots (no rust thru), I Rhion coated the interior and under coated the underside after media blasting with plastic pellets. I'll have to purchase a new trunk mat soon...

I have discovered that I have a minor droop in the right rear (possible spring). I am looking at a new set of springs, bushings and (shackels ?)... IS IT POSSIBLE TO BY ADD-A-LEAFS FOR THIS YEAR OF CAR???

I replaced the gas tank due to some rust and pin holes, also installed a new sending unit as well.

Took the long block out of storage (climate controled/oil cloth wrapped). It was full of mineral oil and is clean as a whistle insde (just as I left it), she turned over beauticfully. I will do a partial tear down and make sure it is ok before complete assembly.

Afer several PMs, considerable thought and a few headaches (deep thought and study).. ALRIGHT, ALREADY GUYS, I WILL USE HEADERS (Power Steerin Type) AND CHANGE THE INTAKE. I CAN AFFORD A NEW PERFORMER IN ABOUT 3-4 WEEKS (AFTER I SAVE-UP). FIGURED TO FINISH THE EXHAUST SYSTEM COURTESY OF SUMMIT PARTS (CHEAPER THAT WAY).

I am going shopping next weekend for the essentials. New radiator hoses, thermostat, heater hoses, clamps, plug wires, fluids, some spark plugs and such...

FIRST QUESTION: WHAT BRAND AND GRADE OF OIL WOULD YOU GUYS RECOMMEND TO FIRST LIGHT THIS BABY OFF AND USE REGULARLY???

SECOND QUESTION: Is there some kind of condenser looking thing which gets attached to the Coil to reduce humming through the speaker system (bass sounding humm which gets louder with engine rpm increase???).....

I plan on using the start up procedures I found in the Archives.....

Would any of you guys have a part number reference for this condenser gizmo for the coil???

Cool ideas guys.

I went digging around my garage rafters. Found a remnent of old style flexible formica (a bit larger than the rear seat panel). Then I bought a roll of do-it-yourself black carpet (enough to cover the panel). $12.75 and tax for all, versus $24.95 (cheapest) and shipping in less than 1 hour. This should do nicely for the rear seat. Thanks for the solution.

I will check the local salvage yards for a couple of leafs this week. Otherwise, i've found a place that will sell ad-a-leafs on the web (4x4 truck site no leass). Again, my thanks for the more econimical idea...

I have been presented a set of what looks like Dodge RT/Superbee chrome exhaust tips (original) by a friend of mine (Chevy Guy, no less). They came off of a 2 1/4 inch exhaust system. He left enough of the original pipes attached to measure. He won't say where he came by them though. Even lightly rusted and carbon stained (should clean up with steel wool), they will shine nicely. Not being a Mopar purist (I LIKE THEM) and will by a set of insulated hangers so I can use them.

I get the feeling there is a salvage yard close by (That has some Mopars). But, these wise alecs are not giving up any information (easily).

Still trying to find a part number for this condenser/sound (humm) reducer that fits the coil...

Thanks for the great advice guys.

Donald

Remember a 73 has iso clamp rear leaf springs and it is a good idea to eliminate the rubber isolators. If you add a leaf you will have to do something about the iso clamp set up the biggest issue is when getting rid of the iso clamp junk is the giant hole in the axle perch you will have to make a spacer with a 1/2 hole to fit the spring center bolts. Here is a trick get 2 craftsman 1 1/4 sockets 1/2 inch drive they fit the axle perch hole perfectly just cut them down to the right height.

Update Time Again Guys.

Well, I went ahead and took some advice. When I took the long block apart to check it (storage for 2 1/2 years), I had .20 shave off the heads. I could not afford the bigger valves which were recommended, so I had the bowls cleaned and pocket ported. I also had the intake and head (exhaust and intake) openings ported and gasket matched as well.

I solved the rear end droop. I found that the right shock lower mounting bolt was loose. The shock had slipped forward and was barely hanging on for dear life.

THEN LAST NIGHT TRAGEDY STRUCK. I opened the passanger side door, and with no warning what so ever the lower hinge spring fell out of the door. Looks like I will have to get the hinges rebuilt pretty quick (NUTS!!!). Seems that the pin had been wearing for some time, but was hidden out of sight. Oh well, things happen all the time.

As soon as I get the engine back togeather again, I will manually prime it and check the oil pressure.

I am looking for a mini starter to help clear the headers at this time (cheapest).

I am also saving for an oil filter relocation kit to get away from the heat of the headers, and save myself some scorched fingers in the future.

It has been sort of cold here (compared to IRAQ), and work is going very slow right now.

I have'nt gone to get the new pictures yet. So, I apoligize to one and all. Just been lazy, as restarting my job has been kicking my skinny butt real good. Guess i'm not as young as I used to be (ha! ha! ha!).

I will post again, soon as I have the pictures.